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kill switch/battery isolator....
Moderator: -Scott-
kill switch/battery isolator....
Ok any one know how to wire one of these up on a 4.2 lt turbo deisel patrol gq
It has to kill the power to the complete car.....At the moment I have a isolation switch that only isolates the earths from the battery
Any help would be appreciated.
Blackers
It has to kill the power to the complete car.....At the moment I have a isolation switch that only isolates the earths from the battery
Any help would be appreciated.
Blackers
If you have your kill switch currently to your battery earth, then you have killed the power to the car. Do you mean to stop the engine if running as well?
75 series ute. 8 inch lift, Drop shackles, Shock hoops, ladder bar, Ubolt flip, 3 inch wheel spacers, intercooled turbo, winch, twin detroits, 35" Mtr's, etc, etc.
i assume he is wanting it to run at CAMS specs, so yes, it has to stop the engine if running.
i dont know how to stop a diesel running, as with mine it will keep on going with no power, but mine is an older bus and has no computer in it, i would assume that once power to the ECU is cut then the engine would die also??
i dont know how to stop a diesel running, as with mine it will keep on going with no power, but mine is an older bus and has no computer in it, i would assume that once power to the ECU is cut then the engine would die also??
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
I'm confused. How does "isolating the earths" not cut the power to everything.The Big Green Meany wrote:Thanks But I need to cut everything....Lights fuel ,motor ect.........Any Ideas?
I thought the intent is to isolate the battery and eliminate the chance of something shorting. If the chassis is no longer connected to the negative of the battery, there is no risk in any +12V wire contacting the chassis. So you have already "cut everything."
What have we misunderstood?
look guys, im fairly sure he wants something like what CAMS asks for. its to stop the entire vehicle from having power of anysort, whether its elctrickity or the ongine or otherwise. its something that officials are meant to be able to switch off incase something goes to shite etc. its a safety thing.
now i dont know how to stop a diesel running on, but surely someone here knows how to kill a diesel engine simply by removing battery power? even if its a 2nd switch that kills the fuel pump when no power runs to it??
greenmeany, is this a CAMS or otherwise related thing? if so i can prob talk to a CAMS official down here in tassie who would know about it...
now i dont know how to stop a diesel running on, but surely someone here knows how to kill a diesel engine simply by removing battery power? even if its a 2nd switch that kills the fuel pump when no power runs to it??
greenmeany, is this a CAMS or otherwise related thing? if so i can prob talk to a CAMS official down here in tassie who would know about it...
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
macca81 wrote:look guys, im fairly sure he wants something like what CAMS asks for. its to stop the entire vehicle from having power of anysort, whether its elctrickity or the ongine or otherwise. its something that officials are meant to be able to switch off incase something goes to shite etc. its a safety thing.
This is exactly what Im after.....Any help wopuld greatly be appreciated...
from CAMS manual, section 7; scheduale c; paragraph 11...
11. all vehicles of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which effectively isolates all electrical circuits from the battery and stops the engine. It must be capable of being operated by the seated driver. There must also be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, which can be operated from outside the vehicle. This shall be positioned in the vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the drivers side. For vehicles with no A pillar, the switch shall nevertheless be in a comparable position. This external switch or remote activation must be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue triangle.
along these lines guys... im looking into it now for ya mate
11. all vehicles of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which effectively isolates all electrical circuits from the battery and stops the engine. It must be capable of being operated by the seated driver. There must also be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, which can be operated from outside the vehicle. This shall be positioned in the vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the drivers side. For vehicles with no A pillar, the switch shall nevertheless be in a comparable position. This external switch or remote activation must be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue triangle.
along these lines guys... im looking into it now for ya mate
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
blackers you can get a kill switch that has terminals for the battery cable and also a smaller set of terminals with spade connectors. www.4x4store.com.au has them for sale on there. You will need to find out which wire it is in the ignition barrell that kills the engine (i have no idea which one it is, but an auto sparky should be able to put you on the right track) you then need to run that wire through the kill switch as well.
Let us know how you go as id be interested to find out which one it is.
Let us know how you go as id be interested to find out which one it is.
use multipole switch or solenoids,
i isolate the actives on my batteries from everything, battery positive and alternator power line on one side of a solenoid, all other loads on other side...
petrol will run on on alternator power same as diesel.
scratched up a diagram and posted at;
http://www.pointnshoot.org/modules.php? ... =0&thold=0
if you use solenoids get electronic ones, the 50 amp ashdowns are drawing 5 amps standing at the moment, kills batteries fast.
Spock
i isolate the actives on my batteries from everything, battery positive and alternator power line on one side of a solenoid, all other loads on other side...
petrol will run on on alternator power same as diesel.
scratched up a diagram and posted at;
http://www.pointnshoot.org/modules.php? ... =0&thold=0
if you use solenoids get electronic ones, the 50 amp ashdowns are drawing 5 amps standing at the moment, kills batteries fast.
Spock
www.pointnshoot.org
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
Blackers,
It doesn't matter whether you isolate the positive or the negative as long as the connection is broken. Take the negative off the battery (engine not running) and you can put a spanner between the positive terminal and the body and it is safe - just ask any apprentice motor mechanic!! So the only other thing to do is isolate power to the fuel cut-off solenoid. Then you cut fuel to the engine, and the alternator stops - so no more generated power.
How ---- use a Col Hersey (made in USA) battery isolator. This isolator is also a multipole switch where the 2 pairs of poles are totally seperate to each other. The larger poles are rated to 2000 amps intermittently (for 30 seconds - not 5) with a continuous rating of 350 amps. Good enough for all your vehicle's current draw including a winch. Connect your batteries negatives through these large poles. You can cut into the fuel shut-off solenoid wire and run it through the small poles.
The switch is a bulky switch and fairly expensive ($165 RRP) It is the same switch as used in Caterpillar D7s etc. (well it was when I was a Diesel Fitter back in the 80s anyway) - so it is quite robust.
You mount it underbonnett - drill a 5mm hole in the lever - attatch a pull-cord and feed it out past the headlight to the outside. When not in use for competitions you remove the pull-cord or drop it down behind the headlight so no-one can play tricks on you.
Hope this helps
Peter K.
It doesn't matter whether you isolate the positive or the negative as long as the connection is broken. Take the negative off the battery (engine not running) and you can put a spanner between the positive terminal and the body and it is safe - just ask any apprentice motor mechanic!! So the only other thing to do is isolate power to the fuel cut-off solenoid. Then you cut fuel to the engine, and the alternator stops - so no more generated power.
How ---- use a Col Hersey (made in USA) battery isolator. This isolator is also a multipole switch where the 2 pairs of poles are totally seperate to each other. The larger poles are rated to 2000 amps intermittently (for 30 seconds - not 5) with a continuous rating of 350 amps. Good enough for all your vehicle's current draw including a winch. Connect your batteries negatives through these large poles. You can cut into the fuel shut-off solenoid wire and run it through the small poles.
The switch is a bulky switch and fairly expensive ($165 RRP) It is the same switch as used in Caterpillar D7s etc. (well it was when I was a Diesel Fitter back in the 80s anyway) - so it is quite robust.
You mount it underbonnett - drill a 5mm hole in the lever - attatch a pull-cord and feed it out past the headlight to the outside. When not in use for competitions you remove the pull-cord or drop it down behind the headlight so no-one can play tricks on you.
Hope this helps
Peter K.
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