Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Dana 44 diffs
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Dana 44 diffs
these are for a buggy (promod) can get either 5 stud or 8 stud - 8 stud supoosedly stronger. don't know much about them, but alot of aftermaket ratio's and chromo gear for them avaliable from the states.
what do ya think??
luke
what do ya think??
luke
From my understanding, D44s are comparable in strength to hilux diffs. In a buggy Im guessing you would be running at least 37s which would probably make the D44s quite breakable, even under a light buggy.
Id go lux diffs with longfield axle/CVs, heap cheaper over here to get than the Dana's.
D60s on the other hand........
Id go lux diffs with longfield axle/CVs, heap cheaper over here to get than the Dana's.
D60s on the other hand........
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
Gee, I wouldn't say they are comparable to hilux diffsv840 wrote:From my understanding, D44s are comparable in strength to hilux diffs. In a buggy Im guessing you would be running at least 37s which would probably make the D44s quite breakable, even under a light buggy.
Id go lux diffs with longfield axle/CVs, heap cheaper over here to get than the Dana's.
D60s on the other hand........
AFAIK the high pinion front diffs are the strongest centres, and the 8 lug diffs are just stronger wheel retention.
I have a Ford HP D44, with Chev 8 lug knuckles. Stronger gears (HP gears are stronger than LP gears) and have 8 x 9/16" studs holding the wheel on, rather than 5 or 6 1/2" studs.
The 8 lug housings "May" have thicker axle tubes etc.
www.pirate4x4.com forums, search for a D44 article by Mr N.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Mate, you would probably have a much better idea than I would, I was just going off what Id read. I have zero experience with dana gear.CRUSHU wrote:Gee, I wouldn't say they are comparable to hilux diffsv840 wrote:From my understanding, D44s are comparable in strength to hilux diffs. In a buggy Im guessing you would be running at least 37s which would probably make the D44s quite breakable, even under a light buggy.
Id go lux diffs with longfield axle/CVs, heap cheaper over here to get than the Dana's.
D60s on the other hand........
AFAIK the high pinion front diffs are the strongest centres, and the 8 lug diffs are just stronger wheel retention.
I have a Ford HP D44, with Chev 8 lug knuckles. Stronger gears (HP gears are stronger than LP gears) and have 8 x 9/16" studs holding the wheel on, rather than 5 or 6 1/2" studs.
The 8 lug housings "May" have thicker axle tubes etc.
www.pirate4x4.com forums, search for a D44 article by Mr N.
I still say, in australia at least, lux diffs with longfields is a cheaper alternative than D44s but I dont have the hook up on dana diffs
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
In my opinion, much stronger than hilux. Theres stacks of parts available if you want to need more strength at a fraction of the cost of hilux stuff.
I just got cro moly inner and outer axles, all the bearings, seals, spindle nuts and yukon uni's for mine ( No cv's ) for under a thousand Australian . (going from 30 to 35 spline)
There's no way my engineer would have let me run the wheels and tyres I have on Hilux diffs...
I just got cro moly inner and outer axles, all the bearings, seals, spindle nuts and yukon uni's for mine ( No cv's ) for under a thousand Australian . (going from 30 to 35 spline)
There's no way my engineer would have let me run the wheels and tyres I have on Hilux diffs...
www.bbmotorsports.com.au
You can run a 'Super 40' if you have Dana44 diffs, this means you can run a special ARB locker that fits in the D44 housing, but allows you to run D60 axles (not sure if it allows 32 or 35 spline though). If you were then to get 4140 axles and run CTM u-joints in the front you'd have a diff that was significantly stronger than any hilux diff.
Hilux diffs can be strong with the longfield axles and CVs, but the centre is still a weak point IMO.
Longfield also make CV conversions for dana diffs, where they make axles and CVs out of 300M and run a CV instead ofa U-joint in the front. These apparently are warranted if you break one of the CVs. I was talking to the guys about it at the WE Rock World finals in Vegas and am considering buying a set of the 60 axles for my buggy.
The down side of Dana diffs is that they're a pain in the ass to build, as you need to use a diff spreader, shim the centre up and try to slide it all in. Not too bad on a hoist, but a pain on the ground in your garage at 2am
Hilux diffs can be strong with the longfield axles and CVs, but the centre is still a weak point IMO.
Longfield also make CV conversions for dana diffs, where they make axles and CVs out of 300M and run a CV instead ofa U-joint in the front. These apparently are warranted if you break one of the CVs. I was talking to the guys about it at the WE Rock World finals in Vegas and am considering buying a set of the 60 axles for my buggy.
The down side of Dana diffs is that they're a pain in the ass to build, as you need to use a diff spreader, shim the centre up and try to slide it all in. Not too bad on a hoist, but a pain on the ground in your garage at 2am
Mantis Motorsports #346
[url]http://www.mantismotorsports.net[/url]
[url]http://www.mantismotorsports.net[/url]
A built 44 front and rear would be suitable for a budget buggy. I believe you can get them new for about $8k each complete (with bracketry) for steer diffs. Alterntatively there's stacks of second hand ones floating around for much cheaper that you could build yourself.
If you're looking at running anything more than 37s, or you're a throttle jockey, or you can afford to build something that really wont break as much, spend the extra on the 60's though. IMO D60 is the ultimate diff for any rock crawler.
Mog diffs are cool too but they have their down sides
If you're looking at running anything more than 37s, or you're a throttle jockey, or you can afford to build something that really wont break as much, spend the extra on the 60's though. IMO D60 is the ultimate diff for any rock crawler.
Mog diffs are cool too but they have their down sides
Mantis Motorsports #346
[url]http://www.mantismotorsports.net[/url]
[url]http://www.mantismotorsports.net[/url]
dana's are the worst diffs to work on but dana 60 would be better then hilux dana 44? In my experience d44 are weak as piss always break crown n pinion in rear I've done work with tj jeeps n wouldnt consider d44 n would never use hilux they are shit to, break crowns sheer pinions n axels also hubs n swivel hubs on trunion have shit breaks
One other point is that for a Dana 44 YOU will need to carry spares, chances are that no one else at an event will have them to loan you if you do break something.
A 60 series diff with 30 splines, cromo rears etc etc. If/When you do bust you can go to a wrecker.
If you can afford to carry spares, there's not much to worry about.
A 60 series diff with 30 splines, cromo rears etc etc. If/When you do bust you can go to a wrecker.
If you can afford to carry spares, there's not much to worry about.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
I'll sell you a dana 44 for the front and a dana 70 for the rear with 6 stud 4.88 ratio complete with closed in swivel hubs and ofset 5 x 15-8 rims currently running little 31's for $4200 deleiverd I'm not garanteeing there lsd but may be as test drove the car on a muddy dam wall and all four wheels where spining
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
There is a balance between strength and ground clearance that one needs to look at.offroader-rama wrote:yeah i know! try and break that ha ha ha. and its the rear where you need the strength
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
Diff clearance in rock crawling is less of a concern when you place your tyres in the right lines. If it were a weekend wheeler going up rutted out tracks then the bigger housing would be a concern.sierrajim wrote:There is a balance between strength and ground clearance that one needs to look at.offroader-rama wrote:yeah i know! try and break that ha ha ha. and its the rear where you need the strength
did i say ono i should have.
dana is tough and if you find the right supplier there just as cheap if not cheaper than any jap shit just need to find a supplier but f100 blaser cheeroke silverados dodges wrangler blah blah they are plentyfull dont be scared there not that rear
dana is tough and if you find the right supplier there just as cheap if not cheaper than any jap shit just need to find a supplier but f100 blaser cheeroke silverados dodges wrangler blah blah they are plentyfull dont be scared there not that rear
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
I also bought new chrome moly Yukon axles and super joints for my D44, with new Warn Hubs, new ring and pinion and ARB locker. Should prove strong enough, I would think, even on mine.
I'm sure I could break the ring gear if I tried, but I think it will last, if not abused.
I'm sure I could break the ring gear if I tried, but I think it will last, if not abused.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
True, but do you see any point going to a Dana 70???Micka wrote:Diff clearance in rock crawling is less of a concern when you place your tyres in the right lines. If it were a weekend wheeler going up rutted out tracks then the bigger housing would be a concern.sierrajim wrote:There is a balance between strength and ground clearance that one needs to look at.offroader-rama wrote:yeah i know! try and break that ha ha ha. and its the rear where you need the strength
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
On a side note, if you can sort out the strenght issuses with a D44, they will give you outstanding steering. I have D44 on the front of my FSJ and it turns almost as tight as my Sierra even with it's extra length. I only run 32's and the AMC 360 is hardly putting out 450hp but i still think the D44 puts up with a bit of abuse espesially with the weight of my jeep.
Tim
Tim
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 49 guests