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I got a set of Cheezy sliders for a swb GQ and got them brought up in my dads semi from VIC to QLD..
Problem is now i went to mount them up and it seems they won't fit
I spoke to Mark for a little bit as he was busy but the plates that i have to weld and bolt to one is mounted were u put a socket on the radius arm and is far foward to that hole there. And the back is sitting above the bracket that supports all the lower arm. When i did speak to Mark he was saying i can move them up and down on chassis but i can't as the back plate hits the lower arm support..
What do i do?? Do i just cut a bit out of the lower arm support thingo or what becuase there bloody good looking pair of sliders and i don't wanna give them back as there awersome and i want to keep them
I'll grab some pics but anyone that can help would be great !!
Thanks alot
Last edited by ForbieMan on Sat May 05, 2007 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
In the pics above shows u the plates that i have to weld to the chassis and how the both sit out from the chassis and don't sit flat. And in the second pic u can also see how the back plate has to be above the Lower arm support bracket and maybe they made the gap between the supports to big or something i have no idea
Last pic is of how it is agianst my sills..
I'm not sure what to do really..
Unless i have the front support in the wrong spot and is ment to go below the body mount spot were those thin bit of flat hand down and if ur not sure what i mean it's were i'm butting the front plate up against and u can the steel plate hanging down.
Shoot Cheezy4x4 a PM, or call back monday & he should be able to help out over the phone, or if someone could post pics of where theres are welded it might be easier
hi looks like they are to suit a body lift, send cheezy photos and ask him what the go is,if not to suit body lift send back or get them modified and send him the bill
Yeah i think i might give Cheezy a PM see if he still comes on here as i don't really want to send them back but if i do i won't be getting another pair for a while as my dad doesn't come up here all that often..
Cheers
Also i kept posting under brothers account as he is starting to get into the 4wd scene and i forget his logged in..
full-boost wrote:definatly look like they are for use with a body lift!
ummmm..no they dont...turn the plate the other way around on the front(excess to the top) and it will then clear the sill of the car ..at the moment you have the front plate sitting to suit bodylift and the back plate to suit not having bodylift.....that will fix the height problem
also you cant move them forward as the back plate is flat so it has to go there..any further forward the chassis angles in and it wont sit on it..so where they are is where they need to be
full-boost wrote:definatly look like they are for use with a body lift!
ummmm..no they dont...turn the plate the other way around on the front(excess to the top) and it will then clear the sill of the car ..at the moment you have the front plate sitting to suit bodylift and the back plate to suit not having bodylift.....that will fix the height problem
also you cant move them forward as the back plate is flat so it has to go there..any further forward the chassis angles in and it wont sit on it..so where they are is where they need to be
dave
nice pickup... i just noticed that just before i saw your post.
funny thou
custom bar work, 4x4 parts, trailers, anything out of steel/alloy :D
Funny thing is i have moved them plates on both ends and they still don't fit..
I moved the front one then makes it worse..
I think i might wait till Monday as VIC doesn't have the day off
And give Cheezy a ring and see what the go is..
I spent ages trying to fit them all different ways etc etc and also asked Mark is i ment to fold that sill edge flap thingo up or not as that's what it hits at the moment.
Anyway these arn't the right ones or i'm missing something and not mounting them right or that sill edge needs to be folded back or something but i highy doubt it needs to be.
u-mmmm front plate yes but look at back plate it is the right way ,also look at his sills they have been bent up ,would be worse if this was not done ,definatley to close need at least 10mm clearance under sill
daz4b wrote:u-mmmm front plate yes but look at back plate it is the right way
isnt that what i said
80lsy gq wrote:turn the plate the other way around on the front(excess to the top) and it will then clear the sill of the car ..at the moment you have the front plate sitting to suit bodylift and the back plate to suit not having bodylift.....
daz4b wrote:u-mmmm front plate yes but look at back plate it is the right way ,also look at his sills they have been bent up ,would be worse if this was not done ,definatley to close need at least 10mm clearance under sill
Yea mate there way to close going to have a chat to Cheezy tommorow i think there are for a body lift
by turning the plate that welds to the chassis opposite ways (excess at top or bottom)it makes them to suit either no bodylift or 2 inch bodylift..
on a GQ if you have no bodylift the bottom of the tube that mounts to the chassis should be level with the bottom of the chassis and this will give you 10mm clearance on the sill..so if you have 40mm bodylift the bottom of the tube nees to be 40mm above the bottom of the chassis..
ludacris wrote:I am pretty positive that all of his sliders are to made to suit a 2 inch body lift.
2 inch body lifts are worth $150. Blocks with crush tubes and high tensile bolts.
LudaCris
When i spke to him he said i think i have only got sliders for a 2" body he then went and looked and said ur in luck i got a set that u don't need a body lift for..
How hard is a body lift and is this going to cause my SWB going fall over on hills and stuff becuase then i'll have a 3" dobision lift and 2" body for 33"s
80lsy gq wrote:by turning the plate that welds to the chassis opposite ways (excess at top or bottom)it makes them to suit either no bodylift or 2 inch bodylift..
on a GQ if you have no bodylift the bottom of the tube that mounts to the chassis should be level with the bottom of the chassis and this will give you 10mm clearance on the sill..so if you have 40mm bodylift the bottom of the tube nees to be 40mm above the bottom of the chassis..
dave
I tryed that this moring and it makes it worse belive it or not..
If i could slide the back mounting plate down lower i would have no probs really but it's becuase they hit the support for the lower arms..
check ur body mounts i tryed to fit a new one becasue i lost one fourbyin and i couldnt get it in because it was 15 mm higher than the originals, they had all had their day and were squashed, maybe urs has squashed 10 mm past the normal squash point, they look pretty squashed
killer_garden_gnome wrote:check ur body mounts i tryed to fit a new one becasue i lost one fourbyin and i couldnt get it in because it was 15 mm higher than the originals, they had all had their day and were squashed, maybe urs has squashed 10 mm past the normal squash point, they look pretty squashed
Well maybe
I don't wanna do a body lift becuase it will make my 33's look to small for the lift and i'm QLD were u put a sticker on ya car they look twice..
OK i mounted the sliders and they fit i needed to cut a little triangle out of lower trailing arm support as that little bit doesn't do anything i was told.
Now can someone tell me by the pics below am i able to get exhaust shop guy who is welding it for me some decent welds on it for me as i was told by someone not to weld the sides just the top and bottom
Problem is as u can see in the pics back support doesn't sit flat against Chassis so top will be a pain but bottom isn't very straight either but they could get a very strong weld down the side.
The front well i don't know someone that knows how to weld will be able to tell as i think u maybe able fill bits in with weld maybe i don't know as the front plate isn't tight up aginst the top or sides..
In regards to the gap... - it seems that the chassis may be different to what the slider was made off (the jig)
If you're wanting to keep the sliders untouched... then you'd have to live with the gap..and just weld the sides up and put a plate behind the gap and weld the lot up.
If you're happy to modify the sliders (only issue is they are powdercoated), it would be a matter of cutting one end of the mounts on the sliders and bendin the plate in the direction to accommodate the chassis's flatness
Hope that helps
custom bar work, 4x4 parts, trailers, anything out of steel/alloy :D
In regards to the gap... - it seems that the chassis may be different to what the slider was made off (the jig)
If you're wanting to keep the sliders untouched... then you'd have to live with the gap..and just weld the sides up and put a plate behind the gap and weld the lot up.
If you're happy to modify the sliders (only issue is they are powdercoated), it would be a matter of cutting one end of the mounts on the sliders and bendin the plate in the direction to accommodate the chassis's flatness
Hope that helps
Thanks mate i think i'll live with it and just put some plate behind it like u said thanks for the welding comment lol joking yeah i haven't welded in a while and didn't have any mig wire so the old faithfull ark had to come out and jee it was a little hard to get used to when i have always used a mig
It's onl tacked on becuase they will weld over when they weld it on good..
Rick.
I was just scared the way it's mounted was going to cause probs but i hope i can work around it..
hi if you leave the back mount hanging down like that it is going to hang you up on logs and rocks ,how much were the steps worth definatly would not buy anything from that place
Mate i have no choice that plate does have to hang that low to get the correct gap between the slider and the sill. I'll have to have a look but my crossmember will be lower
