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gu sub tank light stays on
gu sub tank light stays on
i have a gu 2.8td and my sub tank light came on about a month ago and wont go off, i havnt filled the sub tank in ages so does that cause a problem, i went down today and filled it but the light is still on
is it a problem with the switch or something
is it a problem with the switch or something
60 series cruiser, GU patrol
Pretty sure that this applies to all U's not just my hunka-junk...
The subtank pump (pumps from sub to main, and engine draws only from main) runs for about 15sec everytime you turn your ignition on. They obviously have a dry cut-out, but for the sake of keepng seals lubed, try to keep fuel in sub tank, even if you just pump it over before you fill each time. Cheaper than a rebuild/replace on sub pump.
Go with the earth though - fairly common fault on the sub tank pump...
The subtank pump (pumps from sub to main, and engine draws only from main) runs for about 15sec everytime you turn your ignition on. They obviously have a dry cut-out, but for the sake of keepng seals lubed, try to keep fuel in sub tank, even if you just pump it over before you fill each time. Cheaper than a rebuild/replace on sub pump.
Go with the earth though - fairly common fault on the sub tank pump...
2000 GU II, 6.5L Chev Diesel (ex ZD30), lift, bar+winch, rear bar, drawers, fuel tanks I need a personal loan to fill... most of the regular touring gear.
any where from body to the chassis .
they have a problem when you mount accessories to the car if the body of the car is used as the earth for the accessory . as the body does not have an earth lead it back feeds through the sub tank wiring and to the chassis , in the meantime in knocks out the sub tank and the light comes on .
this is only what i've been told . but since adding the cable it has not happened to the car again .
they have a problem when you mount accessories to the car if the body of the car is used as the earth for the accessory . as the body does not have an earth lead it back feeds through the sub tank wiring and to the chassis , in the meantime in knocks out the sub tank and the light comes on .
this is only what i've been told . but since adding the cable it has not happened to the car again .
body to chassis earth is a good idea as (THE CHASSIS HAS NO EARTH ), and the tank mounts to the chassis. Fuel pumps are common to failure, and are dear. After market can do the job. There is a way of getting a code out and tracing the fault that way, or it can be reset by disconnecting the battery. cheers Phill
Living the dream on the hill that floods
Disconnect your battery for a few mins then put it back on, that allows the sub tank controls to reset.
If you have just installed a turbo timer this will do it if not done right, there is two circuit within the sub tank, if one stays on while the other is off the fault will come up after about 45 seconds
If you have just installed a turbo timer this will do it if not done right, there is two circuit within the sub tank, if one stays on while the other is off the fault will come up after about 45 seconds
i answered myself?????
can u tell me how i would wire it up right???
also have an aftermarket immobilisor.
OH, and the timer will not idle down if the engine has been running for less than 25sec....so if i switch it off before that, and back on, the dash light stays off.
but the pump doesnt work at all.. even if the dash light is off
at what stage does the sub tank decide the main tank is too full and cuts out? as i have only done about 90km's on a full main tank this wk
PAUL
can u tell me how i would wire it up right???
also have an aftermarket immobilisor.
OH, and the timer will not idle down if the engine has been running for less than 25sec....so if i switch it off before that, and back on, the dash light stays off.
but the pump doesnt work at all.. even if the dash light is off
at what stage does the sub tank decide the main tank is too full and cuts out? as i have only done about 90km's on a full main tank this wk
PAUL
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