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switching to rear coils
switching to rear coils
guys,
i have a 4.2td gu ute
i am thinking of changing my rear suspention to coil,i also am thinking of doing a 3inch lift and moving the diff the 12mm to accomidate 35inch tyres, what are the problems involved in doing this?
i have a mate that suggested buying a rear complete axl from a coil cab and simply replacing it and keeping the axl with the leafs on it so i can sell it as stock for a work ute at a later date
cheers
i have a 4.2td gu ute
i am thinking of changing my rear suspention to coil,i also am thinking of doing a 3inch lift and moving the diff the 12mm to accomidate 35inch tyres, what are the problems involved in doing this?
i have a mate that suggested buying a rear complete axl from a coil cab and simply replacing it and keeping the axl with the leafs on it so i can sell it as stock for a work ute at a later date
cheers
Last edited by aidannorris on Fri May 18, 2007 4:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Leaf rear diff is not as wide as a coil diff. On articulation the leaf diff will hit the chassis if it is set up with coils. Spacers would fix this.
The positive is that the leaf diff has full floating axles and a H260 centre.
some 4.8 petrol and some 3.0L diesel have the H260 rear that will have 4.3 ratios so that it matches your front centre.
The leaf chassis is also longer as the shackles are further back than what a coil chassis will allow so lop off about a foot from the leaf chassis and put a new crossmember in.
Its a fairly simple job if you have the right gear and knowlege to do it.
The positive is that the leaf diff has full floating axles and a H260 centre.
some 4.8 petrol and some 3.0L diesel have the H260 rear that will have 4.3 ratios so that it matches your front centre.
The leaf chassis is also longer as the shackles are further back than what a coil chassis will allow so lop off about a foot from the leaf chassis and put a new crossmember in.
Its a fairly simple job if you have the right gear and knowlege to do it.
told you so... i did say coil towers will need to go in as will the mounts for the controil arms. (upper and lower). I though when i suggested it that it was the same chassis as a coil cab ute but after a closer inspection i can see it's not. More work than a simply "semi" bolt in swap job. Welding mounts and coils hats etc along with chassis chops, new cross members, change of centres and ratios etc is getting a bit much for Aidan. I know - I'm the mate.... Let it be know -I also did tell him to buy a coil cab from the start
I'd suggest working with what you have, then no need to centre/ratio changes or track width changes. Get softer, lifted rear spings to match the front with extended shackles and a torque bar, hilux style... still goes OK, get a locker or two. This can all be swapped back if and when - and i did say if - you ever need to do any work. Pffft like that'll happ-en.
Front spacers 12mm i think will work with 3" lift to squeeze 35's under in the front. Again more to it than just springs but i'll talk you through that off line.
I'd suggest working with what you have, then no need to centre/ratio changes or track width changes. Get softer, lifted rear spings to match the front with extended shackles and a torque bar, hilux style... still goes OK, get a locker or two. This can all be swapped back if and when - and i did say if - you ever need to do any work. Pffft like that'll happ-en.
Front spacers 12mm i think will work with 3" lift to squeeze 35's under in the front. Again more to it than just springs but i'll talk you through that off line.
GU 4.2 TD Garrett BB Hi-flow, M8274 + Bells & Whistles with plenty of fruit still on the list!
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already done dude, we did the whole job in a weekend about 18 months ago and now its just getting biggergiantracing wrote:easier to do a chassis change. hey mickyd555. then put a coil rear diff in out of a wagon. didnt take you long....................
I haev to admit though, giantracing did point out the different witdths on the diff to me which saved me a huge amount of hassle. Thanks chris
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