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Just wandering
would something like this work
is it a waste of time or would it take some of the heat away. Its a oil filter cooler, type it in google and you can find.
you would be suprised as to how much heat they will disperse, but be careful not to have it arc on the terminals, they are called a heat sink, used on alot of comersial type electrics
This should work - provided it's fitted right (as noted), and maybe use some heat conducting paste (Dick Smith?) to enhance heat transfer. Some Warn low mount have finned motor casings. Would it be big enough though?
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
Reddo wrote:This should work - provided it's fitted right (as noted), and maybe use some heat conducting paste (Dick Smith?) to enhance heat transfer. Some Warn low mount have finned motor casings. Would it be big enough though?
heat transfer paste will proberly help to minimise corrosion aswell, is works well but gets every where, we used to use it on big solid state relays with water cooled backing plates and heater eliments on sealers. The paste does dry out over time but is inexpensive, any electrical wholesaler or electronics mob should have it, even comes in big tubes for silicone guns
heat sink paste is always worth it because no matter how smooth you think two surfaces are, they never are, and getting good contact is almost impossible without a heat treansfer paste.
Heatsink that size would be about 1deg/watt
Motor pulls 5000 - 10000 watts
90% efficiency = 500 - 1000 watts to dissapate
1deg/watt means it will get to between 500 and 1000 deg C
Hmm.......
I would drip water over it instead. That will remove huge amounts of heat from the casing. A lot of the heat will be in the rotor - this won't help there. There is no airflow, so no wonder they get hot.
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:Heatsink that size would be about 1deg/watt
Motor pulls 5000 - 10000 watts
90% efficiency = 500 - 1000 watts to dissapate
1deg/watt means it will get to between 500 and 1000 deg C
Hmm.......
I would drip water over it instead. That will remove huge amounts of heat from the casing. A lot of the heat will be in the rotor - this won't help there. There is no airflow, so no wonder they get hot.
Paul
thats getting a bit complicated. I remember years ago water cooling was the rage but it was too complex and wasnt really worth it compared to the mucking around to set it up. I was just thinking because it would cost $40 and it may help. Just an idea
Could also just tap some holes into the motor somewhere. One in end cap and another somewhere else. Then use a low pressure high pump. Like a 12v air bed pump. Source dry air for it and just let it flow to waste.