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Ben,
firstly, I can't get the search function to work today, so please forgive me if this has been discussed.
I was doing a search on Pirate re shaved diffs and found you have done this.
I don't want to go as far as most blokes are going with their D60's, having to plate the bottom of the housing, so, how far did you go ?
I haven't pulled the cover plate off yet to check it out properly (I have to go to Sydney in the morning )
Did you just take the flange and drain plug boss off ? or did you go all the way and end up plating it ?
I'm paranoid it will lead to housing flex (the trucks a daily driver/work vehicle), so how have you found it ?
rick130 wrote:Ben, firstly, I can't get the search function to work today, so please forgive me if this has been discussed.
I was doing a search on Pirate re shaved diffs and found you have done this. I don't want to go as far as most blokes are going with their D60's, having to plate the bottom of the housing, so, how far did you go ?
I haven't pulled the cover plate off yet to check it out properly (I have to go to Sydney in the morning )
Did you just take the flange and drain plug boss off ? or did you go all the way and end up plating it ? I'm paranoid it will lead to housing flex (the trucks a daily driver/work vehicle), so how have you found it ?
All input apreciated !
Rick.
I did a mild shave. I took off as much as I could while keeping all the original rear cover bolts. It has worked really well so far and held up fine. If you are worried about strength you could weld some flatbar on top of the tubes to strengthen the tube-centre join and minimise flex. My truck was a daily driver when I did the mod, and it has copped lots of pounding off-road (and on) with no problems - did it about 2 years ago now.
OK, what I did (while the centre was out - MD install) was to screw the drain plug in very tight and weld it in place from the inside (easy job - only need to tack it in) Then I attacked the bottom of the diff with the angle grinder to take off all the ridges and make it really smooth. I ground as much as I could off while still keeping all the original rear cover bolts. There is still plenty of meat inside to keep everything stiff. The D60's in the US sit under some pretty heavy trucks - so a LR is lightweight compared to them. Then I trimmed the bottom of the rear cover to match, and welded a lump of steel in the bottom so I could tap a thread in it to fit a new drain plug (need a MIG or TIG for this). In the process I also welded strengthening plates to the rear cover - to make it like a diff guard and strenthen the (now thinner) bottom edge.
The only problem I have had is the smaller gasket mating surface on the bottom edge of the rear cover (can leak). But since I have sikaflexed the cover on I haven't had any problems. I can't remember hod much I gained? maybe 35mm? (you can lose a lot of that flange that sticks down) - but making the bottom of the diff smoother has helped heaps.
modman wrote:i would also be interested to do a front and rear salisbury
The front Salisbury is still in the pipeline, but I pretty much have it sussed. The only hard part will be squeezing the diff in and trying to minimise bump stop lengthening (keep as much uptravel as possible without the diff hitting the sump). At the same time I will probably be fitting 101 CV's.
Now I have seen a forest rover in real life (see ultimate LR thread) this may be part of an upgrade to 50" wheels - in which case I will need at lease 1.5" axles - which the US D60/D70's have.
when i say front salisbury i mean 101 fc diff
not to confuse with the $alisbury from later 1 ton? or armoured lr's.
thanks for the info ben, if you get a chance any pics would be great.
diff guards for the fc diffs are important especially front.
Thanks Ben,
thats pretty much how I envisaged it. Unfortunately no MIG or TIG within 50km, so looks like a job for the oxy and some brazing rod. Or Devcon.
Some pics would be good too !
Hmm, Salisbury front.
I know where there used to be a coiler one sitting on a workshop floor, with a galvanised 110 chassis outside in the paddock complete with diffs and PTO drive.....and various other bits, only some of which had to go back to where they came.
rick130 wrote:Thanks Ben, thats pretty much how I envisaged it. Unfortunately no MIG or TIG within 50km, so looks like a job for the oxy and some brazing rod. Or Devcon. Some pics would be good too !
Hmm, Salisbury front. I know where there used to be a coiler one sitting on a workshop floor, with a galvanised 110 chassis outside in the paddock complete with diffs and PTO drive.....and various other bits, only some of which had to go back to where they came.
Should make some enqiries.
Brazing would be fine. Or if you want you could make up a completely custom diff cover with drain plug at the time.
modman wrote:when i say front salisbury i mean 101 fc diff not to confuse with the $alisbury from later 1 ton? or armoured lr's. thanks for the info ben, if you get a chance any pics would be great. diff guards for the fc diffs are important especially front.
modman check pm.
Sorry I misunderstood you. For my purposes I was planning to build a front salisbury from a rear one - since I can do all the machining myself I think I could probably build one complete with HD axles and locker for about the same price as an FC101 axle would cost me (or less than an FC101+different side gears +locker would cost).
thats a smarter move, salisbury lockers are cheaper as oposed to fc salisbury.
easier to fab up disk brakes and set caster while keeping a good pinion angle (especially if you go dc driveshaft)
why not high pinion hilux centre in rover housing with 101cv's or longs?
modman wrote:thats a smarter move, salisbury lockers are cheaper as oposed to fc salisbury. easier to fab up disk brakes and set caster while keeping a good pinion angle (especially if you go dc driveshaft) why not high pinion hilux centre in rover housing with 101cv's or longs?
Unlike Sam who thinks that Hilux CW&P's are about the world's strongest, I have seen them break on trucks running 31's who aren't doing much. I think the D60/Sals CW&P is a lot stronger.
Unlike Sam who thinks that Hilux CW&P's are about the world's strongest, I have seen them break on trucks running 31's who aren't doing much. I think the D60/Sals CW&P is a lot stronger.
Yep I agree with you IZUZUROVER. I too have seen Hilux CW & P break under no real stress....I am going to be running a Sal's diff in the rear of my 90 with an ARB locker and 35 spline axles. Then I am thinking of using a Sal's up front, but using The Dyna knuckles (not sure yet, 44's most probably for price but I want 60's but too expensive)
I will be running 4.7's too.
So I will have my 2 diffs for sale once I have done that, they have the 4.1 maxi drive CW & P and new bearings never been run at this stage (I lie about 3 metres in my front yard)
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
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