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trailing arms

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

Posts: 59
Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:17 am
Location: Melbourne, Victoria

trailing arms

Post by dassaw »

Has anyone strengthened there trailing arms? Mananged to bend one of mine on the weekend, and was thinking may be able to strengthen them with some angle or flat welded on top for extra strength. Anyone done this before? Cheers
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Joined: Tue May 22, 2007 3:21 pm
Location: Melbourne Australia

Post by Disco1Modified »

Does yours look like mine did?
Image

I couldn't find anyone in OZ that made stronger ones. I have replaced mine with a set from a Range rover (they are the same length) and are made of a slightly bigger diametre tube.
The best suggestion I received was to find a tube diameter that fits OVER the existing trailing arm (a 3mm tube wall thickness) and silicon it in place to stop it rattling. It is illegal to weld the trailing arm. Needs to be properly engineered.
If anyone knows of a stronger replacement then I'm all ears ....

You may note in the photo that the trailing arm mount is also bent. Stronger arms will surely mean bent mounts .... where do you stop?
Toy 100 series now with a few mods

Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
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Post by HSV Rangie »

Image

Image
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Location: s/w vic

Post by old tom »

sleeve them with steam pipe. Drill holes in the pipe down one side then when fitted fill with silicon
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Location: Melbourne, Victoria

Post by dassaw »

No it wasnt quite that bad disco1, i cant even imagine how the hell you did that! :)

So if welding is out of the question, the steam pipe sleeve or rangie ones might be the go.

HSV, where did you get those custom ones from??

Disco1, pm me some pics of your rig, would like a squiz.

Cheers
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Location: melbourne

Post by modman »

if you can wait 4 weeks i will have 40mm (10mm wall) adjustable length trailing arms for sale at a decent price. 4140 pins and cranked to relieve bush bind ;) .
just give me a few weeks to finish the product.
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Post by up2nogood »

Any ideas of cost?
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Post by RangingRover »

also very interested, due to the introduction of my 4 inch longer shocks.....
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
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Post by DaveS3 »

Very Interested aswell.

Cheers
Dave.
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
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Post by mickrangie »

m3 i have about 4 spares left... the older type Rangie ones do last a lot longer but they still bend :cry:
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
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Post by eliteforce32 »

yeah after a price for these cranked rear arms for a classic rover if ur willing to make so many sets ;) :armsup: ....
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Post by modman »

got to get stuff back from the machiners, i'm doing a batch run to work out price.
i figurred out real quick you can't thread 4140 at 22mm coarse and expect the die too last :oops: :roll:
threads have to be screw cut on large lathe to be accurate and true. ;)
getting fab work done by professionals/tradesmen so down the track engineers can be approached.
further down the track i would like to do different shock mounts, cranked front arms, along similar lines to the american stuff, but suited to our aftermarket shocks.
david.
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Post by walker »

Mmmmm. I am definately interested.

I thought I remembered reading a while ago that cranking the arms was illegal, any truth in that. I hope not.
Thanks,

Adam
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Post by disco95 »

I'm interested in these also. I'm currently looking at getting some modded rear shock mounts made. I've just gotta pull the ones off my wreck to take to the fabricator.
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Post by mickrangie »

walker wrote:Mmmmm. I am definately interested.

I thought I remembered reading a while ago that cranking the arms was illegal, any truth in that. I hope not.
no point having cranked arms with off set bushes... i been told that cranked arms can tend to bend also as pressure it put o the cranked part... make sense if you think about it.... IMO the best would be to sleeve them.
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
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Post by HSV Rangie »

If you use 40*10 hollow bar they WONMT bend.

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Posts: 425
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2005 10:42 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by walker »

HSV Rangie wrote:If you use 40*10 hollow bar they WONMT bend.

Michael.

But then what is the next thing to break if they dont bend. :D
Thanks,

Adam
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Post by mickrangie »

walker wrote:
HSV Rangie wrote:If you use 40*10 hollow bar they WONMT bend.

Michael.

But then what is the next thing to break if they dont bend. :D
that's it i rather my arms bend then my chassis mount
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
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Post by modman »

don't use big tyres, don't use locker, use small axles as fuses, then you won't bend arms or chassis mounts :lol: :lol:
david
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Post by cloughy »

modman wrote:don't use big tyres, don't use locker, use small axles as fuses, then you won't bend arms or chassis mounts :lol: :lol:
david
:rofl:
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Post by walker »

modman wrote:don't use big tyres, don't use locker, use small axles as fuses, then you won't bend arms or chassis mounts :lol: :lol:
david

:finger: :finger: :finger: Should I use highway tyres as well? ;)
Thanks,

Adam
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Post by mickrangie »

walker wrote:
modman wrote:don't use big tyres, don't use locker, use small axles as fuses, then you won't bend arms or chassis mounts :lol: :lol:
david

:finger: :finger: :finger: Should I use highway tyres as well? ;)
Just sit at home and wheb wheel then u wont break anything! Or maybe u could break a mouse wheel if i click too hard :finger: :finger: :finger:
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
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Post by 6.5 rangie »

mickrangie wrote:
walker wrote:
modman wrote:don't use big tyres, don't use locker, use small axles as fuses, then you won't bend arms or chassis mounts :lol: :lol:
david

:finger: :finger: :finger: Should I use highway tyres as well? ;)
Just sit at home and wheb wheel then u wont break anything! Or maybe u could break a mouse wheel if i click too hard :finger: :finger: :finger:
Thats what i do :finger: Haven't broken a thing yet :lol:
Damien


--------------------------------------------------------
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Post by mickrangie »

Crap man i just rolled my chair :cry: :cry: :cry: anyone got a porta power i can borrow?
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
DL
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Post by DL »

Hi All,

Have a look here: www.equipe4x4.com.au/shop/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=4
For $449 and made in Oz. Other goodies as well.

cheers, DL
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Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2003 9:42 pm
Location: melbourne

Post by modman »

i'll beat that price and mine will be adjustable in length for pinion angle.
will also do straight arms for people if necessary.
(and non adjustable)
will only be painted, i'm not into bling :roll:
david
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Location: brisvagas

trailing arms

Post by def90 »

hey DL i think u'll find they are not made here, they are just the australian distributor for equipe (pretty much same line of products as scorpion/scrap iron racing).

although i'm sure they are very good arms, i have a mate with a set (but the scorpion stamped ones), that i will be stealing very soon.

and you should check if these arms are DOT approved, i'm not sure if they are? but they could be by now?
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Re: trailing arms

Post by Micka »

def90 wrote: although i'm sure they are very good arms, i have a mate with a set (but the scorpion stamped ones), that i will be stealing very soon.
Pfft...good luck :roll:

:finger:
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t arms

Post by def90 »

well they're no good on a 'tourer' :finger: :finger:

:D :D
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Re: t arms

Post by Micka »

def90 wrote:well they're no good on a 'tourer' :finger: :finger:

:D :D
at least mine has been in low range recently :finger:
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