Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

Tie-rod end - Can't get nut on!

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

Post Reply
Posts: 77
Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 1:03 pm
Location: Adelaide

Tie-rod end - Can't get nut on!

Post by Andres »

Been rebuilding the swivel hub on my 60 series, and it involves taking the tierod end out of the steering arm (connected to the hub). In the process of whacking the tierod out of the steering arm, I reckon I've damaged the thread.

Now that I'm putting it back together, the tierod end basically spins in its own joint thing as I try and tighten the nut.

Anyone got any tricks on getting the nut on? I've tried holding it with pliers just to get it started, but it still spins. Otherwise how much should I be expecting to pay to replace the tierod end?

I just about threw the torque wrench over the neighbours fence in frustration so any help will be much appreciated!

Thanks fellas!
1999 Mitsubishi Pajero | 1986 Toyota Landcruiser 12HT - Gone but not forgotten!
Posts: 270
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:03 pm
Location: Victoria

Re: Tie-rod end - Can't get nut on!

Post by TEAMRPM »

Andres wrote:Been rebuilding the swivel hub on my 60 series, and it involves taking the tierod end out of the steering arm (connected to the hub). In the process of whacking the tierod out of the steering arm, I reckon I've damaged the thread.

Now that I'm putting it back together, the tierod end basically spins in its own joint thing as I try and tighten the nut.

Anyone got any tricks on getting the nut on? I've tried holding it with pliers just to get it started, but it still spins. Otherwise how much should I be expecting to pay to replace the tierod end?

I just about threw the torque wrench over the neighbours fence in frustration so any help will be much appreciated!

Thanks fellas!
if it goes on from underneath, stick a jack under the tie rod so it puts pressure on the taper. this should hold it in tight enough to get the nut on. maybe stick some grease on it and clean it with a thread file if its damaged bad enough you may need to replace it.

other wise if its from the top use a pair of fairly large multi grips. you will get the same result either way.


cheers.
Tickle me!
Posts: 3824
Joined: Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:25 pm

Post by toaddog »

Try a rattle gun to get it to grip the taper then the torque wrench to set the tension.
If you dont like that idea is there anyway to get a bottle jack or a rachet strap around the joint and put tension on it.

Once you get the into the taper it wont spin.
2008 Patrol wagon and 99 Patrol TD Ute
Cairns
Posts: 1113
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 1:20 pm
Location: QLD

Post by Skegbudley »

Get yourself a thread file. Clean up the damaged threads.
Use a rattle gun to do up nut before checking with the torque wrench.
GU Patrol with go better bits added
Posts: 2404
Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:00 pm
Location: Ipswich

Post by Sic Lux »

Or when your shoulder clicks :D
plenty of parts on the bench
Posts: 3385
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 8:26 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by shakes »

Run the castle end of the nut up there first, should clean most of the thread.

Else clamp the TRE into its seat tight but not tight enough to damage it and if you still cant get it on, may as well replace them while it's still all apart :finger:
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:22 pm

Post by muckute »

The other option would be to replace the damaged tie rod end as clamping, hammering etc may cause damage and neccesitate changing the part anyway
Posts: 2158
Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:16 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by KiwiBacon »

Run a tap through the nut too.
That solved my tie rod issue today.
Posts: 3278
Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2003 9:03 pm
Location: St Helena, Melbourne.

Post by Loanrangie »

The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
Posts: 16934
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2002 6:57 pm

Post by RUFF »

Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
You should never hit the top of a tie rod end at all. EVER.

Always leave the nut on a few turns then with a bar leaver down on the steering arm with a decent amount of force but not enough to bend the arm then wack the side of the arm the tie rod is bolted into with a BFH. It should pop with only a couple of hits. Maybe a few untill you get used to how hard you need to hit it. But never hit the tie rod anywhere.

And to re-fit, place the tie rod in the taper and then just lightly jack it into place to hold it from turning.
Posts: 11892
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 9:53 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by N*A*M »

yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.
Posts: 2158
Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:16 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by KiwiBacon »

N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.
You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.
Posts: 16934
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2002 6:57 pm

Post by RUFF »

KiwiBacon wrote:
N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.
You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.
Prob with these is they usually split the boot.
Posts: 3064
Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: Yinnar South, Vic

Post by cloughy »

Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
AGGGGHHHHHHH NNNNNNOOOOO :shock:

Don't bash tie rod end anywhere :x
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Posts: 5803
Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2003 3:02 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by ISUZUROVER »

RUFF wrote:
KiwiBacon wrote:
N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.
You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.
Prob with these is they usually split the boot.
Exactly - there is a better kind (harder to find) - which works as a puller - so no hammer needed and the boot stays intact.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Posts: 7345
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 3:29 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Gwagensteve »

Pickle forks are butch but effective, might be best though only if you are replacing the ball joint due to the force applied and risk of splitting the boot.

I have a puller style and it still takes some taps on the sweet spot to get it to release, and boy, does it go off with a bang :shock:

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Posts: 16934
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2002 6:57 pm

Post by RUFF »

Gwagensteve wrote:Pickle forks are butch but effective, might be best though only if you are replacing the ball joint due to the force applied and risk of splitting the boot.

I have a puller style and it still takes some taps on the sweet spot to get it to release, and boy, does it go off with a bang :shock:

Steve.
If im replacing a tie rod and i have a ball joint splitter(pickle fork) i will use it but they make a huge mess of the boot and quite often the ball joint as well.
Posts: 722
Joined: Fri Sep 29, 2006 7:40 pm
Location: QLD

Post by zagan »

To help fis the threads you could use a Tap & Die kit, just make sure it is the correct die before using it.

If you have curled threads this may re-alin the threads, if the end is stuffed well could be stuffed but might get away with using a metal stand grinder and clean up the end of the rod try a nut over the end to check that it is fixed.

May help?
Posts: 3443
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 10:50 pm
Location: Currently On the Road !!

Post by Dozoor »

RUFF wrote:
Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
You should never hit the top of a tie rod end at all. EVER.

Always leave the nut on a few turns then with a bar leaver down on the steering arm with a decent amount of force but not enough to bend the arm then wack the side of the arm the tie rod is bolted into with a BFH. It should pop with only a couple of hits. Maybe a few untill you get used to how hard you need to hit it. But never hit the tie rod anywhere.

And to re-fit, place the tie rod in the taper and then just lightly jack it into place to hold it from turning.
Sounds great , only difference to Tonys is i prefer a medium sized hammer , Sharp fast blow , "impact" ,( lever is important)
Posts: 270
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:03 pm
Location: Victoria

Post by TEAMRPM »

Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
SPOT ON! :D



how do you get your spark plugs out of ya pombus? rattle gun?

:D :rofl:









:rofl:
Tickle me!
Posts: 3824
Joined: Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:25 pm

Post by toaddog »

If you look here

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101

I have the one on the left.
They are magic. Separates without damage every time.
2008 Patrol wagon and 99 Patrol TD Ute
Cairns
Posts: 2158
Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:16 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by KiwiBacon »

toaddog wrote:If you look here

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101

I have the one on the left.
They are magic. Separates without damage every time.
Yes this is exactly the same one I have. No damage, no hard work.
Doesn't hurt the boots at all.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 100 guests