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Tie-rod end - Can't get nut on!
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Tie-rod end - Can't get nut on!
Been rebuilding the swivel hub on my 60 series, and it involves taking the tierod end out of the steering arm (connected to the hub). In the process of whacking the tierod out of the steering arm, I reckon I've damaged the thread.
Now that I'm putting it back together, the tierod end basically spins in its own joint thing as I try and tighten the nut.
Anyone got any tricks on getting the nut on? I've tried holding it with pliers just to get it started, but it still spins. Otherwise how much should I be expecting to pay to replace the tierod end?
I just about threw the torque wrench over the neighbours fence in frustration so any help will be much appreciated!
Thanks fellas!
Now that I'm putting it back together, the tierod end basically spins in its own joint thing as I try and tighten the nut.
Anyone got any tricks on getting the nut on? I've tried holding it with pliers just to get it started, but it still spins. Otherwise how much should I be expecting to pay to replace the tierod end?
I just about threw the torque wrench over the neighbours fence in frustration so any help will be much appreciated!
Thanks fellas!
1999 Mitsubishi Pajero | 1986 Toyota Landcruiser 12HT - Gone but not forgotten!
Re: Tie-rod end - Can't get nut on!
if it goes on from underneath, stick a jack under the tie rod so it puts pressure on the taper. this should hold it in tight enough to get the nut on. maybe stick some grease on it and clean it with a thread file if its damaged bad enough you may need to replace it.Andres wrote:Been rebuilding the swivel hub on my 60 series, and it involves taking the tierod end out of the steering arm (connected to the hub). In the process of whacking the tierod out of the steering arm, I reckon I've damaged the thread.
Now that I'm putting it back together, the tierod end basically spins in its own joint thing as I try and tighten the nut.
Anyone got any tricks on getting the nut on? I've tried holding it with pliers just to get it started, but it still spins. Otherwise how much should I be expecting to pay to replace the tierod end?
I just about threw the torque wrench over the neighbours fence in frustration so any help will be much appreciated!
Thanks fellas!
other wise if its from the top use a pair of fairly large multi grips. you will get the same result either way.
cheers.
Try a rattle gun to get it to grip the taper then the torque wrench to set the tension.
If you dont like that idea is there anyway to get a bottle jack or a rachet strap around the joint and put tension on it.
Once you get the into the taper it wont spin.
If you dont like that idea is there anyway to get a bottle jack or a rachet strap around the joint and put tension on it.
Once you get the into the taper it wont spin.
2008 Patrol wagon and 99 Patrol TD Ute
Cairns
Cairns
You should never hit the top of a tie rod end at all. EVER.Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
Always leave the nut on a few turns then with a bar leaver down on the steering arm with a decent amount of force but not enough to bend the arm then wack the side of the arm the tie rod is bolted into with a BFH. It should pop with only a couple of hits. Maybe a few untill you get used to how hard you need to hit it. But never hit the tie rod anywhere.
And to re-fit, place the tie rod in the taper and then just lightly jack it into place to hold it from turning.
Prob with these is they usually split the boot.KiwiBacon wrote:You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.
AGGGGHHHHHHH NNNNNNOOOOOLoanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
Don't bash tie rod end anywhere
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Exactly - there is a better kind (harder to find) - which works as a puller - so no hammer needed and the boot stays intact.RUFF wrote:Prob with these is they usually split the boot.KiwiBacon wrote:You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Pickle forks are butch but effective, might be best though only if you are replacing the ball joint due to the force applied and risk of splitting the boot.
I have a puller style and it still takes some taps on the sweet spot to get it to release, and boy, does it go off with a bang
Steve.
I have a puller style and it still takes some taps on the sweet spot to get it to release, and boy, does it go off with a bang
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
If im replacing a tie rod and i have a ball joint splitter(pickle fork) i will use it but they make a huge mess of the boot and quite often the ball joint as well.Gwagensteve wrote:Pickle forks are butch but effective, might be best though only if you are replacing the ball joint due to the force applied and risk of splitting the boot.
I have a puller style and it still takes some taps on the sweet spot to get it to release, and boy, does it go off with a bang
Steve.
To help fis the threads you could use a Tap & Die kit, just make sure it is the correct die before using it.
If you have curled threads this may re-alin the threads, if the end is stuffed well could be stuffed but might get away with using a metal stand grinder and clean up the end of the rod try a nut over the end to check that it is fixed.
May help?
If you have curled threads this may re-alin the threads, if the end is stuffed well could be stuffed but might get away with using a metal stand grinder and clean up the end of the rod try a nut over the end to check that it is fixed.
May help?
Sounds great , only difference to Tonys is i prefer a medium sized hammer , Sharp fast blow , "impact" ,( lever is important)RUFF wrote:You should never hit the top of a tie rod end at all. EVER.Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.
Always leave the nut on a few turns then with a bar leaver down on the steering arm with a decent amount of force but not enough to bend the arm then wack the side of the arm the tie rod is bolted into with a BFH. It should pop with only a couple of hits. Maybe a few untill you get used to how hard you need to hit it. But never hit the tie rod anywhere.
And to re-fit, place the tie rod in the taper and then just lightly jack it into place to hold it from turning.
If you look here
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101
I have the one on the left.
They are magic. Separates without damage every time.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101
I have the one on the left.
They are magic. Separates without damage every time.
2008 Patrol wagon and 99 Patrol TD Ute
Cairns
Cairns
Yes this is exactly the same one I have. No damage, no hard work.toaddog wrote:If you look here
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101
I have the one on the left.
They are magic. Separates without damage every time.
Doesn't hurt the boots at all.
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