35's on 100 Series

[Dak Dak]

Hello all.

Does anyone have experience with running 35's on a factory TD 100 series? Will fit an 80 series live front axle. Am interested to hear what experiences others may have had:

Any clearance issues with a 2-3" suspension lift with a 2" body lift?

Necessary to change diff ratios to avoid sluggish performance (Looking at fitting a programmable chip, boost controller and 3" exhaust system to help out in the engine department)?

Any help appreciated.

[OISTA]

My old boss had 35" BFG muds on his 100#. Ran a 75mm or 100mm lift. He also ran castor correction bushes. Rubbed on full flex but otherwise the car was basically standard (suspension and driveline wise)

[physh]

Unsure about 35"s on the IFS TD 100 series - but I'm sure it can be done with the right strengthening and possibly a front diff drop or something similar.
Might cost some $$$'s tho.

On my 80 and 100 series (both solid front axles) I fit 35"s (315/75/R16) muds on with 3" lift and never scrubbed anything.

[Dak Dak]

Anyone recommend changing diff ratios???

[BUSTED100]

factory TD 100 with IFS, I don't believe you can put in a body lift legally due to SRS air bags etc..

as for 35's with a diff drop, should fit check out www.ih8mud.com and look at the 100 section, there all IFS there and running 35's etc

[hdj105]

315/75R16's on IFS will rub the front mudflaps when turning, and the tyres will rub the chassis at the rear on full lock, and the tyre sidewall comes very close to the top ball joint and the cast "knob" on the spindle.

Replace the mudflaps with flat rubber or urethane, adjust the steering stops out a little to limit turn angle (no noticeable increase in turning circle) and run the grinder over the "knob".

In the rear they will rub at full compression, so some bump stop spacers or longer bump stops from another model will fix it.

Ratio change will depend on tranny version, but always good to return to original gearing. 4sp auto definately, I'd guess manual may be ok, 5 sp auto may get away with it.

[Dak Dak]

factory TD 100 with IFS, I don't believe you can put in a body lift legally due to SRS air bags etc..

as for 35's with a diff drop, should fit check out www.ih8mud.com and look at the 100 section, there all IFS there and running 35's etc

No, I plan on getting Cheezy to fit an 80 series live front axle (80 series axles far more easy to get hold of and can be fitted ok - he's already done a few of them). I want something with more strength and articulation than the standard IFS and I'm thinking this will make fitting the lift and 35's easier.

[Dak Dak]

Ratio change will depend on tranny version, but always good to return to original gearing. 4sp auto definately, I'd guess manual may be ok, 5 sp auto may get away with it.

Manual transmission but even then I'm still thinking the thing will be a pig off the line with magnified turbo lag on the standard ratios. I guess I can always try it and see how it is. Just thought I'd see what others may have found and save myself the headaches!

[hdj105]

Manual transmission but even then I'm still thinking the thing will be a pig off the line with magnified turbo lag on the standard ratios. I guess I can always try it and see how it is. Just thought I'd see what others may have found and save myself the headaches!

They are a pig off the line std, I'd liken taking off with 35's to having a trailer on the back - the clutch will certainly get a workout!

It's not turbo lag either, it's fuel lag, i.e. the computer is making extra sure that it's not gonna let any black smoke out the back. The ECU also has a switch on 1st gear to limit engine power ;-)

AFAIK, unless you want to do a rear diff centre swap back to 80 carrier, your only OE ratio option is 4.3:1 (from 4.1:1).

[Dak Dak]

It's not turbo lag either, it's fuel lag, i.e. the computer is making extra sure that it's not gonna let any black smoke out the back. The ECU also has a switch on 1st gear to limit engine power ;-)

Hmm, had planned on fitting a programmable ECU (Unichip) after doing some other engine mods - mainly a 3" exhaust, less restricted air intake and boost controller. I knew about the limited fuel to avoid the genie out the back but hadn't heard about the ECU limit in 1st. Do you know how this works or if it is bypassed/changed by fitment of a programmable ECU?

AFAIK, unless you want to do a rear diff centre swap back to 80 carrier, your only OE ratio option is 4.3:1 (from 4.1:1).

This may be a good option considering an 80 series live axle will be going on the front. Already half way there.

Appreciate the info.

[hdj105]

Hmm, had planned on fitting a programmable ECU (Unichip) after doing some other engine mods - mainly a 3" exhaust, less restricted air intake and boost controller. I knew about the limited fuel to avoid the genie out the back but hadn't heard about the ECU limit in 1st. Do you know how this works or if it is bypassed/changed by fitment of a programmable ECU?

It's not bypassed AFAIK, and I'd guess that Toyota would be smart enough to make the ECU know if the circuit to it is tampered with, i.e. open or closed. The switch probably has a fixed resistance value built into it.

I can tell you that a Dtronic does make a huge difference to the overall driveability, actually adds some response to the very dampened fly by wire throttle.

[Dak Dak]

The ECU also has a switch on 1st gear to limit engine power ;-)

Anyone else know anything about this?