Hi All,
Sorry if there is already a post about this.
But i have 3lt patrol (carby) and have been offered fuel injection system for it.
how much work is involved in changing it..?
Thanks,
rene
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GQ 3litre fuel injection
Ha probably means an R31 (I think Skyline) which also ran the RB30e.chunderlicious wrote:if you go the skyline way then you will need the complete head and maybe....maybe need some machining done. on the plus side you can get an awsome head with titanium valves that is dohc, and loves a turbo.
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I've very recently done this conversion on my 96 pootrol. I used all VL commodore parts. Any questions just ask. I found it reasonably easy to do, just a bit tedious making sure everything was done. You will be better of if you get the whole car (I did for $250) so you can take everything you'll need. If not, make sure you get
1. the high pressure fuel pump outside the tank and it's mounting bracket
2. the primer pump from inside the fuel tank
3. accelerator cable
4. accelerator cable bracket that's on the passenger side of the head
5. the oxygen sensor out of the exhaust. I've got extractors so I had to extend the wires so I could mount the sensor down where all pipes merged into one to get a true reading. Make sure the sensor wire with the sheath on it is extended with the same type of sheathed wire. It protects the electrical signal going back to the ECU.
6. the full engine wiring harness
7. the distributor
8. the coil
9. the intake manifold including all air intakes and pipes and air cleaner box and air flow metre and get the intake manifold support bracket.
10. you'll need to change the fuel filter to a high flow efi filter. There's a universal one available (made by RYCO I think) and GET EFI HIGH PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINES. Don't use the standard one's cause they'll fail under pressure and burn you car to the ground.
11. You'll need a new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets too.
12. Get the ECU too of course, I mounted mine on the inside of the fire wall on the passenger side. There's a spot that it fits on it's side perfectly right where I ran all the wires through the fire wall. I then got a peice of 2mm aluminium that I've bolted over it to protect it from feet. Don't put it on the side of the transmission tunnel, it'll get too hot.
13. Also get the relays for the ECU and the fuel pump and you'll need to put a 15amp inline fuse on for each one.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I don't know for sure if the skyline and commodore heads are the same, but I believe they are. Ask someone in the know.
When you wire it up, don't remove any of the patrol wiring. And while I think of it, don't disconnect the fuel solenoid that's required for the carby, it's just behind the driver's headlight with fuel lines running in and out of it. You can disconnect the fuel lines, but if you take the plug off and leave it off, the car won't turn off.
There's not much wiring to do so don't pay anyone shiteloads to do it for you like I nearly did. You will only need to splice into the patrols harness a few places I can think of. From memory there are two big orange wires that are the positive wires that I hooked up to the wire that used to go to the carby for power when the ignition is turned on. The big black wires are the earths and I mounted them on the driver's side of the engine block. There is a little blue and white wire that went to the starter motor on the commodore that I spliced into the starter on the patrol, if you don't put that one on the computer doesn't recognise that the car is trying to start and keeps pumping fuel in causing it to flood making it very hard to start. Then you need to take the blue wire out of the patrol's coil plug and splice it into the EFI's coil plug, this will give you your tacho back. I can't remember which colour wire to splice it into, I just poked it in the end till I found the right one that made the tacho work.
I've had quite a few teething problems that could have been fixed by just doing what I did in the end, changed to BP fuel. I don't know why this caused such a change for me, but it did I haven't heard of anyone else having the same problems. I tried different fuels when on carby and it had no effect. As I say, I've just recently done it and encountered a few problems along the way, so if you start it and get stuck or just want to know more about it, PM me or post a reply.
It sounds like alot to do, but if you're reasonably handy and have all the parts, it's not hard. Done right, it looks like it's meant to be there too.
1. the high pressure fuel pump outside the tank and it's mounting bracket
2. the primer pump from inside the fuel tank
3. accelerator cable
4. accelerator cable bracket that's on the passenger side of the head
5. the oxygen sensor out of the exhaust. I've got extractors so I had to extend the wires so I could mount the sensor down where all pipes merged into one to get a true reading. Make sure the sensor wire with the sheath on it is extended with the same type of sheathed wire. It protects the electrical signal going back to the ECU.
6. the full engine wiring harness
7. the distributor
8. the coil
9. the intake manifold including all air intakes and pipes and air cleaner box and air flow metre and get the intake manifold support bracket.
10. you'll need to change the fuel filter to a high flow efi filter. There's a universal one available (made by RYCO I think) and GET EFI HIGH PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINES. Don't use the standard one's cause they'll fail under pressure and burn you car to the ground.
11. You'll need a new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets too.
12. Get the ECU too of course, I mounted mine on the inside of the fire wall on the passenger side. There's a spot that it fits on it's side perfectly right where I ran all the wires through the fire wall. I then got a peice of 2mm aluminium that I've bolted over it to protect it from feet. Don't put it on the side of the transmission tunnel, it'll get too hot.
13. Also get the relays for the ECU and the fuel pump and you'll need to put a 15amp inline fuse on for each one.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I don't know for sure if the skyline and commodore heads are the same, but I believe they are. Ask someone in the know.
When you wire it up, don't remove any of the patrol wiring. And while I think of it, don't disconnect the fuel solenoid that's required for the carby, it's just behind the driver's headlight with fuel lines running in and out of it. You can disconnect the fuel lines, but if you take the plug off and leave it off, the car won't turn off.
There's not much wiring to do so don't pay anyone shiteloads to do it for you like I nearly did. You will only need to splice into the patrols harness a few places I can think of. From memory there are two big orange wires that are the positive wires that I hooked up to the wire that used to go to the carby for power when the ignition is turned on. The big black wires are the earths and I mounted them on the driver's side of the engine block. There is a little blue and white wire that went to the starter motor on the commodore that I spliced into the starter on the patrol, if you don't put that one on the computer doesn't recognise that the car is trying to start and keeps pumping fuel in causing it to flood making it very hard to start. Then you need to take the blue wire out of the patrol's coil plug and splice it into the EFI's coil plug, this will give you your tacho back. I can't remember which colour wire to splice it into, I just poked it in the end till I found the right one that made the tacho work.
I've had quite a few teething problems that could have been fixed by just doing what I did in the end, changed to BP fuel. I don't know why this caused such a change for me, but it did I haven't heard of anyone else having the same problems. I tried different fuels when on carby and it had no effect. As I say, I've just recently done it and encountered a few problems along the way, so if you start it and get stuck or just want to know more about it, PM me or post a reply.
It sounds like alot to do, but if you're reasonably handy and have all the parts, it's not hard. Done right, it looks like it's meant to be there too.
one difference so i have been told by my skyline nut friend is that you would be better off with r31 injection or at least the distributor because the have different distributor to vl and have more power (Don't ask y but thats what i was told ) And have you ever heard of a r31 needing a new crank angle sensor The vl's always need them like my mother in law she's done 2 in 2 years pain in the a hole
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