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I should be getting my 235/85R16(true 32x9.50) this week coming and i only have a 1 inch shakle lift.
I've had a good look at how much guard needs to be chopped and the front axle will be redrilled to move the axle forward an inch. The only major problem i see so far is the fuel filler pipe. Is there a simple way/place to move it without to much major modification? I'm not scared to cut and weld tho cos i got a mig now
I can't body lift because i've made all my bar work and i cant quite afford new springs for a few months at least.
Anyone done this before or something similiar?
I tried a set of 235/85R16's on my Sierra and found them to be way to stiff in the sidewalls, was like having about 85psi in each. Let them down to 10 psi and they still didn't flatten. Sierra is not heavy enough to make 16's work. 16's are made for heavy Cruisers and Patrols. I much prefer BF Goodrich in 15 inch with their three ply sidewall. Just my opinion but something to think about.
I know many 235's are load range E and intended for dual rear wheel applications, (but so ar 9/34/16 swampers), but 10psi is still what I would call highish sierra pressure - did you try them lower than that?
The size itself is ideal for a sierra.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Hey
I reckon you're gonna struggle with those tyres with only a 1 inch shackle lift. I just put 31's on my zook, and when i first put them on i had 2 inch extended shackels, and they rubbed like buggery. They fit at first, but as soon as you try to turn the wheels thats when they rub badly. I had to remove the front bar, cut off the ends of the crossmember, and hammer the seams flat. I've since done a spring lift (which isnt that much actually... medium duty OME 40mm lift are $78 a piece on the front and $107 a piece on the back - $370 in total) and thats made heaps of difference.
Im not sure how much cutting of the guards you're planning on doing, but yeah that was my experience!
Also, if you're moving the front diff forward, i'd think about doing a RUF
PS I think yokohama do a mud pattern Geolaneder in this size - yoko's are notoriously soft in the sidewall so they could be the busness?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
With the cover removed, there should be plenty of clearance for a 32, but if not, just cable tie it back to the body mount.
Greg ran 34's with 4" backsapced wheels, 2" shackle, OME springs and with the cover off it never hit.
Noel (micheal G) in the club here) runs Q 78's with the same spring/shackle and we tied his back out of the way and its fine. (It did rub on body roll until we tied it back, but not as badly as you would think.
235's are over 1.5" in radius smaller than a Q78 so it should clear fine.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I know many 235's are load range E and intended for dual rear wheel applications, (but so ar 9/34/16 swampers), but 10psi is still what I would call highish sierra pressure - did you try them lower than that?
The size itself is ideal for a sierra.
Steve.
I borrowed a set of BF Goodrich Mud terrains.. 16". They have 3 ply sidewall but are a (slightly) lower profile and SOOO much stiffer I didn't try any lower than 10 psi as I was nowhere near a compressor and don't have one on board yet. It drove almost the same as normal with 10 psi. Hardly any bulge in walls at all.
With the cover removed, there should be plenty of clearance for a 32, but if not, just cable tie it back to the body mount.
Cheers for the info steve! I'll give that a go once the rims get here... bloody tyre shops been waiting 3 weeks and the company that buys the rims in from the eastern states hadn't even put my order through yet I've inspected the tyres tho they look the goods Roadstone Roadian M/T $170 each for the 235/85R16 only half an inch smaller in hieght than a bfg 33x12.5!!! They have fairly pliable sidewall so they should be fine on the light zook
I reckon you're gonna struggle with those tyres with only a 1 inch shackle lift. I just put 31's on my zook, and when i first put them on i had 2 inch extended shackels, and they rubbed like buggery. They fit at first, but as soon as you try to turn the wheels thats when they rub badly.
Yeah my younger brother (15 yrs old )just fitted some 31 silverstone sports on his lwb with 2inch bodylift and 2 inch longer shackles and cut the front bumper off. I thought that was to easy and want something much different in the family something with lots of diff clearance and not to much of a high cog lots of angle grinding
Alright I got my new tyres on! And the good thing is that they dont rub on the back at full flex!
(almost full flex the ramp wanted to fall over if i went higher )
But the front rubs like buggery...Not suprising as my 29's used to rub too...
Im going to have to look at redrilling the spring perch to get a little more firewall clearance with a lot of guard choppage to clear the 32's
Allwell back to the shed i go
More Suzuki parts going to the big Suzuki Heaven in the sky!
Alright i've taken the rear guards off and theres lots of rust everywhere and not much metal So i cant do the wheel well like the guys on izooks virtual lift did because i've had to cut all the metal away that they used to fold tabs.
How should i go about welding in new metal? i've never welded anything this thin before thought it'd be alittle bit thicker.... Any hints?
(i got a cheap mig and a stick welder)
More Suzuki parts going to the big Suzuki Heaven in the sky!
The orginal question related to the cover over the fuel filler hose. behind the right hand rear tyre. Beyond about a 31" tyre, the tye will hit it.
It can be removed by unscrewing the two bolts on the chassis and a scew that holds it to the inner guard.
In the case of very large tyres the hose itself can be pulled out of the way with cable ties.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
i just cut my front to clear my tyres they were stopping me from moving on full flex and was afraid of poping cv. i took a fair bit of fire wall with mine and taped(banged) back with a rubber malet. ive got a little more rubber tho. will post picks up when i take some.
i fit 35s under my zook
i removed those wheel arch covers cut out as much as i could till i got to the fuel filler then welded the brackets back on as high as i could then put the guards back on
a spring over helps to
i got a coily with 30mm lift kings and i want 31's i started choping the other day.the backs ok but i dont know if the front will be ok. will the fire wall need to be cut at all. there is not as much to do a virtual lift on the front as there is the back so im not sure if i will have to take out the whole tub wat does any one think i have 30mm bump stop spacer in the front as well
cos i got a mig now 
I've inspected the tyres tho they look the goods Roadstone Roadian M/T $170 each for the 235/85R16 only half an inch smaller in hieght than a bfg 33x12.5!!! 
They have fairly pliable sidewall so they should be fine on the light zook
)just fitted some 31 silverstone sports on his lwb with 2inch bodylift and 2 inch longer shackles and cut the front bumper off. I thought that was to easy and want something much different in the family something with lots of diff clearance and not to much of a high cog 
)
So i cant do the wheel well like the guys on izooks virtual lift did because i've had to cut all the metal away that they used to fold tabs.
