Diesel Tuning Help - 1HZ

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

OK - please only those respond that have a clue about how a diesel operates. If anyone wants to use the word lean - go play elsewhere.

I've got a 1HZ with an AXT kit on it. Haven't measured boost yet, no tap points. Inlet temps under full throttle are 120 - 140c. Intercooler is on the cards. Estimate boost would be about 7psi. EGT gauge is also next on the list, yes I know why it matters, and it will go pre-turbo.

There is no aneroid or bost compensator on these injector pumps.

OK - I want more power, and better fuel economy - the usual, and prob not obtainable. Current tune is *slightly* rich, as there is some black smoke if floored from idle, until boost comes up. Boost comes in very early by feel, no obvious boost at a certain RPM, very smooth curve (not smooth engine - i wish it was a 1HD-FTE)

Now - assuming I intercool it, and increase the fuel delivery to give acceptable EGT's under WOT at 100km/hr for overtaking. This will be under full bost and intercooling.
I am concerned about 3 scenarios.

1. Under low speed, high throttle (sand) the intercooler will be less effective. Result is less dense air, less aire for same fuel = higher EGT's

2. Under 0 speed, high trottle (takeoff) - there will be no boost. As the adjustment is (I assume) linear, this will overfuel, lots of black smoke. I can deal with that, but will the lots of black smk result in huge EGT's and damage to pistons. There was pics of a split 1HZ piston on the LCool website at one stage (link is broken now)

3. Light cruise - Engine will be at full boost at 1800RPM (I hope) - so less throttle can be used to deliver the same fuel quantity - nothing should change.


Cooma website implies an aneroid is not needed, however this linear vs non-linear bahavior has me interested.

I also have no idea about the impacts of diesel timing.

Anyone the know about tuning Toyota Diesels? All info is appreciated.

Yes I could take it to a professional, but
a) every professional has their own opinion about how hard you can push things
b) They all want more money than I have to spend
c) It's fun to learn.

I can't find bugger all on the web re. Tuning diesels. Most website still can't get over the fact that they are under boost 90% of the time and don't have a throttle butterfly (cept for some).

Thanx
Paul

[DanielS]

OK - please only those respond that have a clue about how a diesel operates. If anyone wants to use the word lean - go play elsewhere.

I've got a 1HZ with an AXT kit on it. Haven't measured boost yet, no tap points. Inlet temps under full throttle are 120 - 140c. Intercooler is on the cards. Estimate boost would be about 7psi. EGT gauge is also next on the list, yes I know why it matters, and it will go pre-turbo.

There is no aneroid or bost compensator on these injector pumps.

OK - I want more power, and better fuel economy - the usual, and prob not obtainable. Current tune is *slightly* rich, as there is some black smoke if floored from idle, until boost comes up. Boost comes in very early by feel, no obvious boost at a certain RPM, very smooth curve (not smooth engine - i wish it was a 1HD-FTE)

Now - assuming I intercool it, and increase the fuel delivery to give acceptable EGT's under WOT at 100km/hr for overtaking. This will be under full bost and intercooling.
I am concerned about 3 scenarios.

1. Under low speed, high throttle (sand) the intercooler will be less effective. Result is less dense air, less aire for same fuel = higher EGT's

2. Under 0 speed, high trottle (takeoff) - there will be no boost. As the adjustment is (I assume) linear, this will overfuel, lots of black smoke. I can deal with that, but will the lots of black smk result in huge EGT's and damage to pistons. There was pics of a split 1HZ piston on the LCool website at one stage (link is broken now)

3. Light cruise - Engine will be at full boost at 1800RPM (I hope) - so less throttle can be used to deliver the same fuel quantity - nothing should change.


Cooma website implies an aneroid is not needed, however this linear vs non-linear bahavior has me interested.

I also have no idea about the impacts of diesel timing.

Anyone the know about tuning Toyota Diesels? All info is appreciated.

Yes I could take it to a professional, but
a) every professional has their own opinion about how hard you can push things
b) They all want more money than I have to spend
c) It's fun to learn.

I can't find bugger all on the web re. Tuning diesels. Most website still can't get over the fact that they are under boost 90% of the time and don't have a throttle butterfly (cept for some).

Thanx
Paul

1st, this will depending on your intercooler type eg water/air vs air/air. water to air genral has greater cool at lower speeds where and air/air unit requires air flow across the unit- however, air/air will still give some degree of cooling due to air movement across the unit.

2nd, this can be recterfied by adding a fuel boost comensator, as boost increases so will fueling.

3rd, boost will be in relation to engine load and fueling, in crusie on flat ground boost will back off, on hills- overtaking etc boost will increase as fuel delivery increases. so Your correct.

Diesel timing can be increased to coupe with higher fuel delivery and higher rated injectors.

It will help to have a yarn with Diesel Tec (Andrew) on here, he is a great source of info.

Mi2C

Regards
Daniels

[KiwiBacon]

120-140 deg C would be around 13-16psi boost from my experience. The actual temp/boost relationship is quite complex. It depends on intake air temp, compressor efficiency and a few other factors.
I have run with temp probes inside my inlet tract before.

While an intercooler will give you the ability to turn the fuel up, even without that you can expect a slight improvement in economy and power.

Have you got an EGT gauge?

A simple electric fan can help out an intercooler at low vehicle speeds. As already mentioned an air/water intercooler offers more thermal ballast too.

[Dzltec]

Ill offer my opinion. If you dont want to use the word lean, you shouldnt use rich then.

Boost can be easily measured at the wastegate hose. Before you play I would do measuring, not guessing. You need an egt and boost gauge. More power and economy dont really go together, however, the power ups we have done have had reports back that if they drive them nicely and allow the engines torque to pull, better fuel economy is achieved, more right foot more fuel usage.

The more fuel added to the engine, the quicker the turbo will spin up, the downside is excessive smoke and higher egts under sustained load, until the correct air fuel ratios are met. This helps acceleration, if the turbo still doesnt spool quick enough get a ball bearing unit.

High egts only happen after prolonged load. A 10 sec blast shouldnt go over the killl zone. Your egt gauge and right foot will stop this happening.

In a cruise situation at 100kmh, you are developing roughly 15-30rwkw. You will have boost of 2-6psi, not full boost. You should have egts of 200-350c at the dump pipe.

Diesel timing should be left alone unless you can measure how you adjust it.

A boost compensater would be a worthwhile fit up, it gives more scope for independant adjustment of fuel according to boost pressure.

I/c is only needed if you want alot higher boost or you find that your egts are too high as it is now. More measuring.

Hope this helps.

[PGS 4WD]

Well said.

Perhaps the use of excess air instead of lean??

Joel

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

Well said.

Perhaps the use of excess air instead of lean??

Joel

I didn't want to dive into this side of it but for the 100,000th time

Definition of Diesel Operation is "Complete Combustion in an excess of oxygen"
Therefore there is always excess oxygen UNLESS you burn it all, in which case you are now "rich", ie past stoichiometric. (actually they'll not even get to stoichiometric before smoking, but that's a different problem)

But the rest of the statements make sense.
I'll get an adapter for the boost gauge (no factory tap points) and find the coin for an EGT gauge. Trying to find a reasonablly priced one from the US is hard in deg C and with a pillar pod for RHD.

I know on the surf the boost came up to 7PSI from about 1700RPM and stayed there, rain hail or shine, regardless of throttle. This thing feels the same, but will check to be sure.

Diesel-tec - you need to pay your web host account :)

Paul

[KiwiBacon]

Could any of you gentlemen give me an insight into aneroid setting on an inline pump.

Is there any setting for "no boost" fuel, or is this simply done through setting how far out the aneroid lets the plunger rod sit?

I presume the plunger rod fully released lets the pump deliver maximum fuel and the plunger rod prevents full travel of the rack until it is completely released.

[Ruffy]

Well said.

Perhaps the use of excess air instead of lean??

Joel

I didn't want to dive into this side of it but for the 100,000th time

Definition of Diesel Operation is "Complete Combustion in an excess of oxygen"
Therefore there is always excess oxygen UNLESS you burn it all, in which case you are now "rich", ie past stoichiometric. (actually they'll not even get to stoichiometric before smoking, but that's a different problem)

But the rest of the statements make sense.
I'll get an adapter for the boost gauge (no factory tap points) and find the coin for an EGT gauge. Trying to find a reasonablly priced one from the US is hard in deg C and with a pillar pod for RHD.

I know on the surf the boost came up to 7PSI from about 1700RPM and stayed there, rain hail or shine, regardless of throttle. This thing feels the same, but will check to be sure.

Diesel-tec - you need to pay your web host account

Paul

For somebody that portrays themselves as very smart you say some very dumb things!
You've just bagged out the guy that gave you the best advice.
I like many other people on here have the knowledge to tell you what you need to know but you are a tosser so i'm not going to
Firstly, if you want to tune your diesel properly then get the right equipment. Go come here asking for some professional advice when you have absolutely no idea what boost you're running... It feels about the same as a surf with 7 psi.. duhhhhhhhh...
you start these threads to show your knowledge and splash some technical terms around then bag people who genuinely try and help. Either do it properly or don't do it!

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

Oh dear, it's Ruffy my Conscience Again http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 94#1109494. Go moderate somewhere else please.

Whoever gives advice needs to have facts right before I'll trust them. I know how a diesel works, I don't know how to tweak a Cruiser.

If you don't know the fundamentals then you are jsut another mechanic with an opinion. I notice your profile says you are a mechanic, and your opinon o fme adds nothing constructive to this forum.

If you can present analysis and comparison facts like www.are.com.au then you have a clue. Never met him, but his website shows the guy knows how to think. pity I can;t afford his kit.

I present analysis, and "feels like" means it presents a smooth curve with no obviosu transition to boost. This means it is in early and doesnt' increase throughout the rev range. I know how a waste gate works, so am valid in making this assumption.

I didn't bag dieseltec anywhere, his statements were correct. I corrected the next guy who got into the usual diesel engine tuning mistake. If you mention the work lean and diesel you simply indicate your ignorance.

Nough said.

Now - Berrima strongly states they think aneroids are unescessary. There must be reasons behind this, when others think they are beneficial. Let the knowledgeable contribute to why this is so.....

Paul

[KiwiBacon]

Now - Berrima strongly states they think aneroids are unescessary. There must be reasons behind this, when others think they are beneficial. Let the knowledgeable contribute to why this is so.....

Paul

Berrima diesel used to have a "facts" section on their website saying intercoolers are unnecessary, but that seems to have disappeared.
But they do claim all factory turbos are water cooled.
Those are enough for me to forever question their judgement.

http://www.thedieselexperts.com/turbocharging.html

*edit*
Found it:
http://www.berrimadiesel.com.au/publica ... _Facts.pdf
*/edit*

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

Now - Berrima strongly states they think aneroids are unescessary. There must be reasons behind this, when others think they are beneficial. Let the knowledgeable contribute to why this is so.....

Paul

Berrima diesel used to have a "facts" section on their website saying intercoolers are unnecessary, but that seems to have disappeared.
But they do claim all factory turbos are water cooled.
Those are enough for me to forever question their judgement.

http://www.thedieselexperts.com/turbocharging.html

*edit*
Found it:
http://www.berrimadiesel.com.au/publica ... _Facts.pdf
*/edit*

I dunno - I just re-read it and it all looks pretty correct to me. Most factory turbo's today are water cooled. Intecoolers may increase engine operating temps due to airflow restrictions and additional fuel loading possible. Many ppl get this oen wrong, intercoolers are to increase charge air density, not cool the engine in any way.

Paul

[udm]

Many ppl get this oen wrong, intercoolers are to increase charge air density, not cool the engine in any way.

huh? Without changing fuel ratios, just add a cooler and you WILL drop egt's by at least 50degrees

[KiwiBacon]

I dunno - I just re-read it and it all looks pretty correct to me. Most factory turbo's today are water cooled. Intecoolers may increase engine operating temps due to airflow restrictions and additional fuel loading possible. Many ppl get this oen wrong, intercoolers are to increase charge air density, not cool the engine in any way.

Paul

I disagree.
I have yet to see a heavy duty turbo which is water cooled, most of the modern diesel turbos are variable vane, I have yet to see a variable vane turbo with a water jacket.
Garrett in fact issued a turbo replacement for one Nissan diesel engine and swapped out a water jacket turbo for a non jacketed one.

Blaming overheating due to excessive fuel loading on the intercooler is a terrible conclusion.
An intercooler on any boosted diesel improves the engines efficiency (thus improving power slightly) while reducing both intake and exhaust temps.

Blaming a poorly working radiator on the intercooler is again a terrible conclusion. Every joule of heat the intercooler takes out is at least one the radiator doesn't have to.

[Dzltec]

The correct term for diesel operation is lambda = >1. This implies that it is always working in an excess air supply, not oxygen. When we dyno vehicles we use a wideband oxygen sensor which then tells us we are in regards to lambda or it gives us an air/fuel ratio. We normally work in a/f ratio. 18:1 is about ideal for good power and minimal exhaust smoke.

In your case Paul you would be below 18:1, probably as far down as 15-16:1, as your have more fuel than required for the amount of air supplied. Then midrange you will be ok, then higher revs you start to go above 20-23:1.

With a boost compensater you can make this a flat line all the way through of 18:1 or what ever you want. When a fuel system manufacturer designs these pumps, they do it for a turbo apllication that can range from small cars, 4wd, light commercial to industrial engines. They ALL have boost compensaters. It gives greater scope of control. I have never seen one with out one. If they werent needed why are there all fitted to factory turbo aplications.

Aftermarket kit manufacturers and tuners including myself will give diff opinions. I give my opinions because I have proven what works, through measuring and testing, generally on my own vehicles and through practical experience., not from someone elses sayso or what i read on a forum. The turbo kit guys believe that there kits spool up nice and quick, run a moderate boost level, so dont really need it for the Joe Blogg, which is true, but we arent comparing apples with apples. We have kits with Garret, Mitsubishi, Switzer to name a few which all have subtle differences in there design both chra, compressor and turbine housings and manifolds. This all alters how a turbo behaves. If you want high boost, more power tell me how you are going to clean up your off boost smoke problem. With a b/c.


Kiwi bacon what sort of pump or engine are you wanting to know about in regards to how a b/c works.

You mention feeling boost pressure, how do you do that? Are you not confusing that with you torque or power curves? Some engines will get up to full boost real early, some take along time, but you cant feel when that happens.

A 06 td6 patrol turbo is not water cooled at all.

I agree with Kiwi on the i/c.


Andy

[zagan]

Well said.

Perhaps the use of excess air instead of lean??

Joel

I didn't want to dive into this side of it but for the 100,000th time

Definition of Diesel Operation is "Complete Combustion in an excess of oxygen"
Therefore there is always excess oxygen UNLESS you burn it all, in which case you are now "rich", ie past stoichiometric. (actually they'll not even get to stoichiometric before smoking, but that's a different problem)

Paul

lol, Stop treating a diesel like a petrol engine.

My understanding is that excess oxygen simply reduces the amount of black smoke pumped out the back in a diesel.

You can make extra power from a diesel by putting in extra oxygen, a turbo helps with this, though compressed air becomes hotter.

For a diesel a 3litre diesel doesn't use up 3 litres oif fuel like a petrol motor but pumps 3litres of air each 2 turns of the crank so 1 turn is 1.5 litres 2 turns is 3 litres.

If you cool the air, you'll pump in denser air which pumps in more power.

1 Pound of boost = 7% more HP, if you have no heat in the air

so 10 pounds of boost is 70% extra HP out of an engine on top of it's normal amount of HP.

For every 10degress F of reduce air temp you can get 1% extra HP out of a motor, if the pressure remains the same

The above works for any motor petrol or diesel.

The main differance between a petrol motor and a diesel is the throtle.

Petrol motors use a thortle butterfly to hold back the amount of air going into the motor this allows the motor to idle at low revs, other wise you turn the key and it'd fly off down the road straight away.

The above increases in HP only work on a petrol motor when its at full throtle, if it's less than fully open throtle well you won't have the same HP being made as open throtle as your reducing the amount of air getting to the motor.

Diesel's don't have a throtle butterfly, because they use the throtle pedal to control the amount of diesel going into the motor, so a diesel motor is fully open all the time.

This is why Diesel's only use a turbo to increase the boost because when you turn the key you'll be creating boost straight away, it might not be much but it'll be spinning that little turbo wheel.

You can increase the fuel but extra fuel generally means extra soot due to you pumping in too much fuel and not enough air thus it doesn't get burnt and your simply wasting fuel to produce extra soot or black smoke out the back.

I'm no expert I found that Gale banks has some videos on youtube about incresing extra HP out of motors.

He got into diesels because they can make tons more power than apetrol motor could think of and do it way easier than a petrol motor.

It's quite interesting, if your intending to increase power on a diesel which is what I'm currently thinking about doing.

Dieseltech would know this stuff better than me because he does the above for a living you should listen to the people who do it everyday.

[KiwiBacon]

Kiwi bacon what sort of pump or engine are you wanting to know about in regards to how a b/c works.

Andy

Pump is a Diesel Kiki
Assy #894160-6661
101401-0501
449K 296280
Pump #101040 8460
NP-PE 54A95C412RS2000

Engine is an Isuzu 4BD1T.

I had all those numbers handy from ordering a new aneroid diaphragm a week or so back, I'm not normally that thorough.

Do you have any problems with the lambda probes sooting up on a diesel? I've heard of people wanting to install them permanently, but unless you've got a clean running common rail engine I thought they'd get buried quickly.

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

I dunno - I just re-read it and it all looks pretty correct to me. Most factory turbo's today are water cooled. Intecoolers may increase engine operating temps due to airflow restrictions and additional fuel loading possible. Many ppl get this oen wrong, intercoolers are to increase charge air density, not cool the engine in any way.

Paul

I disagree.
I have yet to see a heavy duty turbo which is water cooled, most of the modern diesel turbos are variable vane, I have yet to see a variable vane turbo with a water jacket.
Garrett in fact issued a turbo replacement for one Nissan diesel engine and swapped out a water jacket turbo for a non jacketed one.

Blaming overheating due to excessive fuel loading on the intercooler is a terrible conclusion.
An intercooler on any boosted diesel improves the engines efficiency (thus improving power slightly) while reducing both intake and exhaust temps.

Blaming a poorly working radiator on the intercooler is again a terrible conclusion. Every joule of heat the intercooler takes out is at least one the radiator doesn't have to.

You are correct, I think it's a matter of context. If you grab a diesel engine and throw an intercooler at it (front mount), then it will reduce the radiator efficiency somewhat due to airflow impedance. The heat loss / gain will be nearly equal. Now if you increase fueling to take advatage fo the increased density, the engine will have more heat to deal with. Couple these 2 things together and you can get the scenario Berrima was warnign about where the engine has overheating issues post intercooling.

I have had many mech's tell me adding an intercooler will help cool the engine by lowering EGT's and Inlet temps. EGT's are not directly related to cooling load, as that depends on thermal mass rates (KJ/Min) as opposed to temperature (C).

I haven't played with many larger turbo's, but the larger ones on the Wartsila Generators where I used to work are water cooled cores. They are pretty big - the motor is a 6000KW V16.

Paul

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

The correct term for diesel operation is lambda = >1. This implies that it is always working in an excess air supply, not oxygen. When we dyno vehicles we use a wideband oxygen sensor which then tells us we are in regards to lambda or it gives us an air/fuel ratio. We normally work in a/f ratio. 18:1 is about ideal for good power and minimal exhaust smoke.

In your case Paul you would be below 18:1, probably as far down as 15-16:1, as your have more fuel than required for the amount of air supplied. Then midrange you will be ok, then higher revs you start to go above 20-23:1.

With a boost compensater you can make this a flat line all the way through of 18:1 or what ever you want. When a fuel system manufacturer designs these pumps, they do it for a turbo apllication that can range from small cars, 4wd, light commercial to industrial engines. They ALL have boost compensaters. It gives greater scope of control. I have never seen one with out one. If they werent needed why are there all fitted to factory turbo aplications.

Aftermarket kit manufacturers and tuners including myself will give diff opinions. I give my opinions because I have proven what works, through measuring and testing, generally on my own vehicles and through practical experience., not from someone elses sayso or what i read on a forum. The turbo kit guys believe that there kits spool up nice and quick, run a moderate boost level, so dont really need it for the Joe Blogg, which is true, but we arent comparing apples with apples. We have kits with Garret, Mitsubishi, Switzer to name a few which all have subtle differences in there design both chra, compressor and turbine housings and manifolds. This all alters how a turbo behaves. If you want high boost, more power tell me how you are going to clean up your off boost smoke problem. With a b/c.


Kiwi bacon what sort of pump or engine are you wanting to know about in regards to how a b/c works.

You mention feeling boost pressure, how do you do that? Are you not confusing that with you torque or power curves? Some engines will get up to full boost real early, some take along time, but you cant feel when that happens.

A 06 td6 patrol turbo is not water cooled at all.

I agree with Kiwi on the i/c.


Andy

So for aftermarket kits, many are getting by on the fact that the boost is not that high, and they are not winding the fuel up too far, so compensating isn't absolutely required, although it can deliver a benefit by allowing you to get the engine more correcctly tuned for both on and off boost states.

So for a 1HZ with an AXT kit, and no aneroid, is there a cost effective way of fitting an aneroid (possibly off a TD engine), I assume there is a hole for it somewhere on the injector pump. You mention tuning through experience, which means home testing is possible. Any tips on what to / not to adjust on the 1HZ?
Yes I need to add an EGT to the equation.

There is a great example for Rovers here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31 but I have never foun similar for Toyota.

Thanx
Paul

[Dzltec]

Kiwi Bacon, you only have 2 adjsutments on your b/c. Spring tension and stroke which alters rack travel at full boost. You need a special tool to make the stroke adj.

The oxy sensors are moounted at the tail pipe and are heated. I havent had one play up yet.

paul, you cant easily fit a b/c on the vehicle. The pump needs to come off, yes you can adapt one from another, but it gets tricky.

My tuning through experience is using equipment that measures changes so I know what works and what doesnt, pushing the boundaries in my own cars to breaking point.You would be suprised how tough diesels are if set correctly.

The only tip Ill give is if you dont know what you are doing leave it to someone who does. Same goes for fitting a b/c.

Andy

[KiwiBacon]

Kiwi Bacon, you only have 2 adjsutments on your b/c. Spring tension and stroke which alters rack travel at full boost. You need a special tool to make the stroke adj.

The oxy sensors are moounted at the tail pipe and are heated. I havent had one play up yet.

paul, you cant easily fit a b/c on the vehicle. The pump needs to come off, yes you can adapt one from another, but it gets tricky.

My tuning through experience is using equipment that measures changes so I know what works and what doesnt, pushing the boundaries in my own cars to breaking point.You would be suprised how tough diesels are if set correctly.

The only tip Ill give is if you dont know what you are doing leave it to someone who does. Same goes for fitting a b/c.

Andy

Thanks, I have made a tool for stroke adjustment and already used it. You've confirmed what I thought.

[KiwiBacon]

You are correct, I think it's a matter of context. If you grab a diesel engine and throw an intercooler at it (front mount), then it will reduce the radiator efficiency somewhat due to airflow impedance. The heat loss / gain will be nearly equal. Now if you increase fueling to take advatage fo the increased density, the engine will have more heat to deal with. Couple these 2 things together and you can get the scenario Berrima was warnign about where the engine has overheating issues post intercooling.

I have had many mech's tell me adding an intercooler will help cool the engine by lowering EGT's and Inlet temps. EGT's are not directly related to cooling load, as that depends on thermal mass rates (KJ/Min) as opposed to temperature (C).

I haven't played with many larger turbo's, but the larger ones on the Wartsila Generators where I used to work are water cooled cores. They are pretty big - the motor is a 6000KW V16.

Paul

A 6000kw diesel counts as stationary and probably a completely different design to automotive turbos. Take a look in a few trucks and see what's there.
Most turbos that're water jacketed are originally intended for use on a petrol engine (i.e. the garrett T25/28's that're quite common in 4wd vehicles). Berrima says there are no petrol vs diesel turbos but I disagree. Diesel turbos have a smaller exhaust turbine to better create boost from the cooler exhaust flow.

Your EGT's are directly linked to intake temps. Drop a degree out of the intake temp and the exhaust temp will drop almost exactly the same amount.
Those mechanics are correct and an intercooler for you has the potential to drop almost 100 deg C out of your intake temps.

[Dzltec]

Paul the link you posted will help you on your landcruiser, but do it at your own risk. If you dont want risk pay someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

I dont know of anyone in Brisbane.


Andy

[zagan]

I disagree.
I have yet to see a heavy duty turbo which is water cooled, most of the modern diesel turbos are variable vane, I have yet to see a variable vane turbo with a water jacket.

variable vane turbos are pretty damn new, you also need ECU to control it.

So you can't just dump it into anything and go.

[hammey]

Three words......... water/methanol injection

[KiwiBacon]

variable vane turbos are pretty damn new, you also need ECU to control it.

So you can't just dump it into anything and go.

Not that new. They were first put on a production vehicle back in the late 80's. They've been commonplace on diesels for about the last 7 years
They work just fine with a pressure actuator just like a wastegate which makes retrofitting no more difficult than any turbo swap.

But many of the newest ones are direct electric/hydraulic control with no pneumatic actuator.

[KiwiBacon]

Three words......... water/methanol injection

It's cheaper to just wash your airfilter in diesel.

*warning*
Don't do this, the fumes will put your engine into runaway mode
*/warning*.

[hammey]

Three words......... water/methanol injection

It's cheaper to just wash your airfilter in diesel.

*warning*
Don't do this, the fumes will put your engine into runaway mode
*/warning*.

thats funny

[vn15]

Three words......... water/methanol injection

Have water/meth on my modified GQ, love it, decrease EGT by approx 50 deg C, and you can really feel the extra power and blacksmoke allmost dissapears.

Water injection is used in tractor pulling to cool things down.