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auto sierra G13B

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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auto sierra G13B

Post by christover1 »

auto sierra G13B???
frog's clutch thrust bearing is makin noises already (or something in that area). so naturally I am considering an auto instead of fixing it :). My thoughts are, Jimny auto should be easy fit (apparently the electronics can be overcome), but I guess expensive. And if a 1.6Vit can be simply fitted to a 1.3 gearbox, then a 1.6vit auto should be easy to fit to my Swift/Sierra 1300 motor?? But removing the integrated transfer box leaves a prob. 2WD Auto box may be the answer, but these were not available here in OZ.
Haven't done any research, just thinking. I not want anything complex, unique or expensive. I have no idea what is involved in converting a cheap(eg corolla type) auto to my engine, but worth looking into. Any thoughts anyone? christover
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Post by DamTriton »

Suzuki Carry Van of a couple of years ago??????
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Post by christover1 »

GaryInOz wrote:Suzuki Carry Van of a couple of years ago??????


thats worth looking into, as they used 1300 in later model carrys? thanks
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Post by SAWZALL »

According to Redbook, Carry's only came in manual
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Post by ZOOK60 »

has anyine got anymore info on the auto box cause i am keen for an auto aswell
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Post by OVERKILL ENG »

I would be interested as well.
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Post by Midget »

Kick it to me,kick it to me...

I 2 would be interested....
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Post by christover1 »

one of our club members is fitting a 2.0 litre vit auto to his sierra, with vit t-case removed and replaced by some 2wd end from some van.. I know, stuff all tech info, but I am watching it carefully, see if it will suit similar variations. he may pipe up with more info, when it looks like its a goer, christover (my plans on hold, normal **** getting in the way)
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Post by WaveCult »

christover1 wrote:one of our club members is fitting a 2.0 litre vit auto to his sierra, with vit t-case removed and replaced by some 2wd end from some van.. I know, stuff all tech info, but I am watching it carefully, see if it will suit similar variations. he may pipe up with more info, when it looks like its a goer, christover (my plans on hold, normal **** getting in the way)


I'll swap ya an auto 1.6 GV (o 15"s) for your dual-locked Sierra (only kidding!!) but yes, auto's rule!

Easier to "feather the break, accelerate a little and steer side to side" as Greg usually recommends... :D
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Post by christover1 »

I'll swap ya an auto 1.6 GV (o 15"s) for your dual-locked Sierra (only kidding!!) but yes, auto's rule!


I am getting softer as I age, power steer, auto and efi is sounding pleasant. probly will get an old auto vit, when sierra is past it, if I not past it first. not likely to be an efi, tho :cry: , bit too dear still..a vit can be made capable, bummer bout the ifs, tho, but me sure I can make it work....nearly did swap my lwb sierra for a vit :lol:
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Post by ZOOK60 »

is the vit transfercase a divorced case or is it joined to the gearbox like a hilux
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Post by N*A*M »

it's married
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Post by bazuky »

ok guys this is what you need to get
vitara carby three speed auto (trimatic type)
any other trimatic auto (any old holden)
use vitara torque convertor (stronger) ,pump and case
add in other holden extetion housing ,output shaft and any other parts
stir well and add shortend jack shaft to meet sierra t case
bolt up to vit motor no problemo
oppisite mods to bolt up to sierra motor
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Post by Damo »

bazuky wrote:ok guys this is what you need to get
vitara carby three speed auto (trimatic type)
any other trimatic auto (any old holden)
use vitara torque convertor (stronger) ,pump and case
add in other holden extetion housing ,output shaft and any other parts
stir well and add shortend jack shaft to meet sierra t case
bolt up to vit motor no problemo
oppisite mods to bolt up to sierra motor


Only problem with this is the fact you have no overdrive, top gear is 1:1. Combine that with the 1.409:1 hi range of the transfer case and you are pulling some pretty serious revs on the highway. It gets even worse if you were running a rockhopper.

In reality it might work OK though, it would be interesting to actually drive one and see what it's like. Someone do it :D :armsup:
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Post by Guy »

Bu the point of running it is that you are most likley running larger rubber anyway .. so your revs shoud remain somewhat sensible ..
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Post by Damo »

Hmm, depends what your idea of sensible is. AND if you want to run a rockhopper or not...

Stock xfer, 3.909:1 diffs, 31" tyres =
3700RPM@100kph
21:1 crawl ratio in lo range 1st gear

I think you basically double the crawl ratio because of the torque converter? That gives 40:1... would it be enough???

6:1 rockhopper, 3.727:1 diffs, 33" tyres =
4000RPM@100kph
54:1 crawl ratio in lo range 1st gear

Better crawl ratio but even with the bigger tyres and taller diff gears the HI range ratio is worse. But maybe you would need more revs to push it along...
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Post by bazuky »

i have done simila but used a 5k with the vit convertor (more strength)
yes the torque convertor does mutiplyyour gearing
it will give you about 10.5:1 1st gear (i think i had about 105:1 crawl ratio with stock trans ,3.9 diffs and 31" tyres)
yes it did rev on the higway but 3500rpm at 100kph was bearable
and boy could it crawl some might rember a white suzuki drive up a tree at emu creek
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Post by ZOOK60 »

so you had a g13a and bolted a 5k auto with a vitara torqe converter and modified jackshaft ? how hard was this conversion ? what was involved ?
did the auto rob much power?
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Post by bazuky »

no i have a 5k (1500) motor and bellhousing with a vit convertor and main case with v8 internals more clutches and shims , higher oil presure ,and modified valvebody for crisper shifts
when it ran on petrol it did loose a bit of power but when i converted it to straight LPG it lost more power but that was fixed and got a ship load more power when the super charger went on then i started breaking stuff(all 4 axels , stripped rear crown wheel and pinion and the standard 5k auto in just 2 weeks)
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Post by christover1 »

am considering an early corolla 3 spd auto. as 3, 4 and 5K conversions were common, so I assume it will fit in space provided? should be suitable, as motor/car similar weight and power and year. I have a flex plate from my swift import motor, if I can mate that to the 3k converter, and make an adaptor, may werk... going to wreckers soon, to measure all the cheaper 4 cylinder autos, christover..
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Post by christover1 »

Just got back from the wreckers, bloody hot and soaking wet on the
ground..what we do for our 4wd habit :)
looked at corollas from ke30's thru to ke70's. too much work and
dollars to fit a 80's model big heavy auto to my 2000 model engine.
The price for auto is not too bad $90 if ya want a warrantee, but ya
dont get the converter, the cooling pipes or the flex plate, they all
added up to another $90...can buy a whole car for less and get all
the bits. main prob with the corolla auto is the starter on opposite
side, adds another lot of jobs. and the 10 or so bolts, while zook
uses 4? weird..and also all the K autos had missing torque coverters,
with the autos just hanging by the wires and pipes..suggests to me a
big reliability prob with the converters, but good must be the
autos...
looked at commodore 4 cyl and gemini, and a few japanese cars(mazdas
nissans etc). all autos are ok length wise, enuff room for a tiny
jack shaft, but most have huge oil pans, and very biggish bell
housings.. bell housings dont appear removable..and often have
starter wrong side, too..
not given up, but need to go back to the drawing board, and keep
looking fer later model lighter ideas...must ask about Jimny autos,
tho I know they'd be un cheap, but am curious. modifying a vit auto
is still to be researched....
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Post by christover1 »

I'm assuming, if needed, that the thickness of an adaptor will be
dependant on length of the shaft in the trans, ie it needs to mate to
the converter at correct depth,( converter being fixed at flex plate)
so length of the shaft needs to be considered, this is a question,
not a statement
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Post by christover1 »

christover1 wrote:I'm assuming, if needed, that the thickness of an adaptor will be
dependant on length of the shaft in the trans, ie it needs to mate to
the converter at correct depth,( converter being fixed at flex plate)
so length of the shaft needs to be considered, this is a question,
not a statement


and tho I would prefer not to, if the fit is flush, I suppose its
possible to space the torque converter away from the flex plate, by
the same amount as the adaptor thickness....? christover
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Post by bazuky »

bazuky wrote:ok guys this is what you need to get
vitara carby three speed auto (trimatic type)
any other trimatic auto (any old holden)
use vitara torque convertor (stronger) ,pump and case
add in other holden extetion housing ,output shaft and any other parts
stir well and add shortend jack shaft to meet sierra t case
bolt up to vit motor no problemo
oppisite mods to bolt up to sierra motor

read thisyou have to use the vit bell housing and do the reverse mods to fit a vit motor to serria gearbox
that means you need to make an addaptor to go from the serria motor to the vit bellhousing
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Post by christover1 »

bazuky wrote:
bazuky wrote:ok guys this is what you need to get
vitara carby three speed auto (trimatic type)
any other trimatic auto (any old holden)
use vitara torque convertor (stronger) ,pump and case
add in other holden extetion housing ,output shaft and any other parts
stir well and add shortend jack shaft to meet sierra t case
bolt up to vit motor no problemo
oppisite mods to bolt up to sierra motor

read thisyou have to use the vit bell housing and do the reverse mods to fit a vit motor to serria gearbox
that means you need to make an addaptor to go from the serria motor to the vit bellhousing


I was under the impression that the vit trans bolted straight on, with no adaptor, just a elongating of one bolt hole? I could have misunderstood, of course.. but the adaptor questions were meant for non vit, ie corrolla/commodore etc complete transmissions(I'm a broke disability pensioner and zook stuff is good but very dear) so am looking for a cheap, mass produced, easy to replace type conversion. thanks for your input, tho, in case I decide to go the vitara option, christover..
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Post by christover1 »

After some sound advice, and after fixing Frog's (my Sierra's) Carby again (I am going to drain tank and hose it out when the tank is emptier). I went back to the wreckers in less heat, no mud, and better frame of mind.
The Bell Housings on the corolla Trimatic are removable, and the extension housing dont seem too hard to change either. This leaves the possibility of using the Vitara Bell Housing and torque converter on the K3 auto, or using the K3 ext housing on the vit case. Will do some checking into that possibility soon. A dead vit trans may be cheapish...If successful, no need for adaptor plates, unless shaft lengths are different, in which case we need just a spacer (splines and locating rod seem same as Sierra?) least its a positive step forward... would leave more room for a jackshaft, about 5" (125mm), but am considering interchanging front and rear tailshafts(lwb luxury)which would enable t-case to be slid back about 5"(125mm) leaving a jack shaft length only a fraction smaller than my 1.0 litre standard(1.3 jackshaft be easier to shorten me thinks)...all worth some more investigation.....wish I could make it happen yesterday, instead of so slowly
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Post by OVERKILL ENG »

christover1 wrote:After some sound advice, and after fixing Frog's (my Sierra's) Carby again (I am going to drain tank and hose it out when the tank is emptier). I went back to the wreckers in less heat, no mud, and better frame of mind.
The Bell Housings on the corolla Trimatic are removable, and the extension housing dont seem too hard to change either. This leaves the possibility of using the Vitara Bell Housing and torque converter on the K3 auto, or using the K3 ext housing on the vit case. Will do some checking into that possibility soon. A dead vit trans may be cheapish...If successful, no need for adaptor plates, unless shaft lengths are different, in which case we need just a spacer (splines and locating rod seem same as Sierra?) least its a positive step forward... would leave more room for a jackshaft, about 5" (125mm), but am considering interchanging front and rear tailshafts(lwb luxury)which would enable t-case to be slid back about 5"(125mm) leaving a jack shaft length only a fraction smaller than my 1.0 litre standard(1.3 jackshaft be easier to shorten me thinks)...all worth some more investigation.....wish I could make it happen yesterday, instead of so slowly
christover


Sounds good .
I ran an auto in my old Zook behind the 4k for a while but the auto's first gear was to high and we lost to much gearing so you would have to run seriess three gears at least or better still our 7.5:1 gears.
SAM

ps it was a corolla trimatic.
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Post by christover1 »

overkill wrote:Sounds good .
I ran an auto in my old Zook behind the 4k for a while but the auto's first gear was to high and we lost to much gearing so you would have to run seriess three gears at least or better still our 7.5:1 gears.
SAM

ps it was a corolla trimatic.


thats intriguing, been told opposite by many, and that I would need much bigger tyres, but maybe they meant road gearing? but many also talk with out experience, so I will believe you ;)
was quoted around $400 for a vit 3sp auto, 2nd hand or imported, better than I thought. anothe thoght crossed my mind, the bell housing on the corrolla may be able to be rotated to get starter hole on correct side...more thinking, sick of thinkin, need some doing :roll: christover
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Post by christover1 »

PS, what size tyres were ya running on it, Sam?
I not likely to go super huge, and also I'm using 4/1 diffs and one litre t-case with the swift 1.3. christover
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Post by OVERKILL ENG »

I was running a 1ltr transfer and 5.1 diffs and it was way underpowered we even ran nitrous but it still wasn't any good.
On road it wasn't to bad for speed but I was running 33 boggers.
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