So when I have my foot on the clutch my gen 2 is nice and quiet, but when I let it out in neutral it makes a bunch more noise than I think it should. It's not a harsh noise but it sounds like the clutch & pressure plates are rattling together.
Any thoughts?
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Clutch noise
Moderator: -Scott-
Clutch noise
92' NH Pajero SWB 3.0 V6
Noisey clutch
Just in the process of replacing the clutch in my 2.8TDI NJ (with the bigger box) after it dropped a spring out of the clutch plate and wouldn't disengage.
366000km on the original clutch and there was still meat left on the clutch plate and the flywheel and pressure plate were unmarked. Pity the center was getting all rattly, and the throwout bearing was all gummed up on the nose of the gearbox, and the throwout lever pivot shaft was practically seized in the housing (had to drill a hole in the top of the bellhousing to knock the shaft out).
Weighed the box when I had it on the ground, 100kg. Had a spare box out of an old 2.6L Gen 1, didn't touch 50kg, no wonder they were a dog of a box.
Hardest part of the whole job was getting the box back on the jack after I dragged it under the car. Had the car on stands but there wasn't enough clearence to get the box back under the car on the jack when putting it back together (gravity helped me when getting it out).
Other hard parts were accessing the top few bolts around the bellhousing (had to use a couple of 12" extension and uni joint to bring the ratchet back near the transfer case) and also very tight between the clutch assembly and bellhousing and floorpan (next time I might try wedging the front of the motor to give a little more clearance at the back of it) when reinstalling the box.
Biggest dilema when getting it ou was the pull type throwout bearing, the spring clip arrangement attaching it to the pressure plate figures wouldn't let go. Had to unbolt the clutch assembly from the flywheel via the inspection hole and move the box backwards with the clutch assembly, and then drop the box right out to get the clutch out of the bellhousing.
If you have conventional push type clutch you can probably get away with just sliding the box back over the centre cross member to access the clutch and then sliding back into place again.
One interesting thing was the price of parts. I originally was only going to put a clutch plate in it, especially after Bursons quoted me approx. $1500 (retail) for a (cheap) PBR kit. I said don't even bother with a trade price, I'll just go with a plate. Then I priced a heavy duty Daikin (Exedy, made in Japan kit) from the local brake and clutch man. $660.
But the biggest surprise was genuine Mits. Didn't offer a kit but about $850 (trade) for the clutch plate, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I doubt I would get the PBR for that at trade price.
I went with the Daikin and got it in last night. Was going to finish bolting the box in tonight but too buggered from work.
Peter H
366000km on the original clutch and there was still meat left on the clutch plate and the flywheel and pressure plate were unmarked. Pity the center was getting all rattly, and the throwout bearing was all gummed up on the nose of the gearbox, and the throwout lever pivot shaft was practically seized in the housing (had to drill a hole in the top of the bellhousing to knock the shaft out).
Weighed the box when I had it on the ground, 100kg. Had a spare box out of an old 2.6L Gen 1, didn't touch 50kg, no wonder they were a dog of a box.
Hardest part of the whole job was getting the box back on the jack after I dragged it under the car. Had the car on stands but there wasn't enough clearence to get the box back under the car on the jack when putting it back together (gravity helped me when getting it out).
Other hard parts were accessing the top few bolts around the bellhousing (had to use a couple of 12" extension and uni joint to bring the ratchet back near the transfer case) and also very tight between the clutch assembly and bellhousing and floorpan (next time I might try wedging the front of the motor to give a little more clearance at the back of it) when reinstalling the box.
Biggest dilema when getting it ou was the pull type throwout bearing, the spring clip arrangement attaching it to the pressure plate figures wouldn't let go. Had to unbolt the clutch assembly from the flywheel via the inspection hole and move the box backwards with the clutch assembly, and then drop the box right out to get the clutch out of the bellhousing.
If you have conventional push type clutch you can probably get away with just sliding the box back over the centre cross member to access the clutch and then sliding back into place again.
One interesting thing was the price of parts. I originally was only going to put a clutch plate in it, especially after Bursons quoted me approx. $1500 (retail) for a (cheap) PBR kit. I said don't even bother with a trade price, I'll just go with a plate. Then I priced a heavy duty Daikin (Exedy, made in Japan kit) from the local brake and clutch man. $660.
But the biggest surprise was genuine Mits. Didn't offer a kit but about $850 (trade) for the clutch plate, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I doubt I would get the PBR for that at trade price.
I went with the Daikin and got it in last night. Was going to finish bolting the box in tonight but too buggered from work.
Peter H
NJ Pajero 2.8TDI
Re: Clutch noise
Sounds like its the Gearbox bearings. When your foot is released the thrust bearing and spiggot do not come into play. Mine did the same thing. Does it make the same noise when compression breaking/slowing down? I would go to a nearby gearbox/transmission joint and take them for a spin. The bearings in these boxes are pretty known for being noisy. Had to do mine at 200k.Mechz wrote:So when I have my foot on the clutch my gen 2 is nice and quiet, but when I let it out in neutral it makes a bunch more noise than I think it should. It's not a harsh noise but it sounds like the clutch & pressure plates are rattling together.
Any thoughts?
This is referred to as "rollover" noise.
It is very common in the 3.0 V6 5sp box.
Basically it is the gearbox input bearing rumbling when idling - press the clutch and it shuts up as it stops spinning.
It's just due to the particular design of this box.
It's not a problem unless the bearing noise becomes excessive.
In an enclosed garage it can be very noticeable and I first noticed mine when I first got it at 100,000K's and there was no probs right up to 165,000K's.
I personally wouldn't worry about it unless it starts to get progressively louder.
It is very common in the 3.0 V6 5sp box.
Basically it is the gearbox input bearing rumbling when idling - press the clutch and it shuts up as it stops spinning.
It's just due to the particular design of this box.
It's not a problem unless the bearing noise becomes excessive.
In an enclosed garage it can be very noticeable and I first noticed mine when I first got it at 100,000K's and there was no probs right up to 165,000K's.
I personally wouldn't worry about it unless it starts to get progressively louder.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
So I had a look at the box while I was changing the engine 710 the other day and it looks like it might be leaking from the seals. Nothing major though.
I'll take your advice frank and not worry too much about it. I think the problem should mostly go away when I put the seal back around the shifters to keep the mud out. I have been a little lazy since I put the body lift in
I'll take your advice frank and not worry too much about it. I think the problem should mostly go away when I put the seal back around the shifters to keep the mud out. I have been a little lazy since I put the body lift in
92' NH Pajero SWB 3.0 V6
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