Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

threadlocker stronger than loctite 270 ??

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

Post Reply
Posts: 510
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2003 9:42 pm
Location: melbourne

threadlocker stronger than loctite 270 ??

Post by modman »

anybody got ideas about a permanent threadlocker stronger than loctite 270??
the threadlocker will be used to locate a nut on a stud where the thread changes size 20mm unc to 22mm unc.
engineer says i am not allowed to weld the nut to shaft (undercutting thread, surface raisers yada yada)
it will be permanent and of coarse needs to be strong.
heat and oil are not major issues.
i was quoted to make the studs out of a larger solid bar and have the 'nut' machined as part of the whole stud but not even a politicians super comes close to the cost :shock: :shock:
thanks,
David
Posts: 1857
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 12:16 am
Location: ipswich

Post by nastytroll »

sounds like your talkin 3/4 unc to 7/8 unc as it is an american imperial thread. I would use prob 680 locktite but only put it where the nut will finish n wind the nut over it. It will set inside the nut n blow the rest off with compressed air n wash with metho or similar. 680 is bearing retainer or I think 660? shaft retainer. very hard to break but can be done if heated with an oxy.
Temporary Australian
Posts: 6728
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 7:45 am
Location: somewhere........ who knows where

Post by Vulcanised »

use Loctite super nut lock..... it's red!! the bearing retaining one does work, but not as good. If you want it to lock super tight, use the 720 primer spray as well to clean it.
There is no "I" in Team, but there are 5 in Individual Brilliance
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:51 pm

Post by Spimon_NH »

Are you allowed solder/braze it on?
Posts: 510
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2003 9:42 pm
Location: melbourne

Post by modman »

solder/braze????:P
will have to check with the engineer.
stud is 4140 so as long as it cools by itself material integrity will stay.
david
Posts: 5457
Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2002 9:49 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Shorty40 »

I have some Volvo Metal Adhesive and I have snapped bolts trying to undo them after using this stuff :oops:

Volvo Metal Adhesive (Contains Acrylic acid, hydroxypropyl methacrylate)

Strong stuff :armsup:
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

might be a stupid idea, but could you just put two nuts on and lock them up to eachother?
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:51 pm

Post by Spimon_NH »

It's been a while since I did any materials science subjects but I think you should be able to get away with soldering (possibly not brazing) without causing much disruption to the microstructure.

Soft solder melts at about 180 deg'C (possibly higher for a suitable solder for 4140). I don't think HAZ really came into it until about 890 deg'C.
If I remember correctly (it's been a while and it's late!) brazing requires about 420 deg'C so might not be as safe.

Then again, some of these 'glues' people are suggesting sound mighty impressive and could be easier.

Anywho, something to ask the gingerbeer.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest