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T400 stall, can you set or is it all in the torqqe converter
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Road Ranger
T400 stall, can you set or is it all in the torqqe converter
so I picked up this gearbox, it has 2500rpm stall, can this be reset to a lower stall or is it all in tolerneces in the torque converter, how har how much $$ to change? or better to get a new box with a lower stall?
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Im here for the sausage!
Road Ranger
nah will get some help from a mate who has a workshop, sorry this is the first auto I will have owned I dont know fark all about them, done plenty of gearxoes and clutches thoughcloughy wrote:Are fitting this yourself![]()
Need to purchase a new convertor or have yours modified, nothing you can do at home, the actual transmission will remain the same

what kind of cost to modyfy the stall, found some stalls on ebay, one guy local here, might anoy him with some dumb Qs

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Road Ranger
is that installed or are they easy enough to install? I think some phone calls on monday are in order6.5 rangie wrote:Better off to sell yours and get a new one, at least you shouldn't be to far out of pocket.
I'd be saying around the $400-$500 mark for the new converter

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This really is your first auto isn't it
No that would be supply only, they are easy to put on providing the box is out, just make sure you have a new front seal in the box, slip the converter on and keep turning it and pushing it until it is fully engaged (back as far as it will go). If you don't engage it and pull it on when you put the box on the engine you will destroy the pump in the box
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You'll see when you get it what i mean.

No that would be supply only, they are easy to put on providing the box is out, just make sure you have a new front seal in the box, slip the converter on and keep turning it and pushing it until it is fully engaged (back as far as it will go). If you don't engage it and pull it on when you put the box on the engine you will destroy the pump in the box

You'll see when you get it what i mean.
Damien
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Road Ranger
yep6.5 rangie wrote:This really is your first auto isn't it![]()
No that would be supply only, they are easy to put on providing the box is out, just make sure you have a new front seal in the box, slip the converter on and keep turning it and pushing it until it is fully engaged (back as far as it will go). If you don't engage it and pull it on when you put the box on the engine you will destroy the pump in the box.
You'll see when you get it what i mean.

thanks for the info guys
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One to many outs you've got therecloughy wrote:Shame he doesn't live closer to you damien, you could give him a hand6.5 rangie wrote:Yeah what he said^^^^
Seeing how you've had alot of practice putting auto's in and taking them out......and in........and out

So far so good

Damien
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If you get a standard converter the stall will be about 1800rpm but if want bigger stall the converter has to go down in diameter and this is when it starts costing money, there are alot of converter shops around gerenal rule you pay for what you get,just make sure they make the convertor full roller bearing it will handle a lot more power hear is a few shop names and numbers
Dominator converters (03)94654945
Convertor Industries (02)98387935
sling shot converters (02)96883085
Agnew Converters (02)43622088
Torque converter repairs (02)96883085
Melva Converters (07)38089376
Just to name a few....
Dominator converters (03)94654945
Convertor Industries (02)98387935
sling shot converters (02)96883085
Agnew Converters (02)43622088
Torque converter repairs (02)96883085
Melva Converters (07)38089376
Just to name a few....
Road Ranger
Not sure about t700's but for most autos, when u install the converter and think u have it in all the way....u don't.... measure from the face of the bellhousing to the face of the converter before u pull the old one off, and make sure the new one goes in fully...
Thrashed '90 Leaf spring Maverick ute, TD42, 2" EFS lift. 36 Swampers.
Road Ranger
www.thedieselpage.com.
For more info on what will suit your engine, trans, and what stall speed these came out with, try the above site. Its all on Chev Diesels
For more info on what will suit your engine, trans, and what stall speed these came out with, try the above site. Its all on Chev Diesels
Damien
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Just remember it the stall is to low the motor will not like to idle the start of the torque range of the engine is where the stall needs to beTiny wrote:by the look, stock is 1800ish? I am hoping around 1200Dozoor wrote:Depending on your gearing some times its worth while getting a lower then stock stall speed .
I think what Mod Toy is saying is you can get a stock size converter to stall as high as 1800 rpm ,Tiny wrote:by the look, stock is 1800ish? I am hoping around 1200Dozoor wrote:Depending on your gearing some times its worth while getting a lower then stock stall speed .
Just a warning when buying a box thats fitted with a 2500rpm converter,
Its most likely fitted with a modified valve body or , shift kitted for a high performance petrol motor , if you place it behind a diesel v8 the desiel may not even achieve the rpm to swap cogs with the mods.
As mod Toy stated you carnt go below a certain piont or it dosn,t work at all - especaily when trying to change gears on the transfer case while the motor is in gear , the motor will be loading the running gear up making it hard for lockers -disconects - ect to disengage.
Just some thoughts .
Road Ranger
talked to tci today, sounds like a 1800rpm stall is the go for it, they do ok price for the unit exchange for the hi stall unitDozoor wrote:I think what Mod Toy is saying is you can get a stock size converter to stall as high as 1800 rpm ,Tiny wrote:by the look, stock is 1800ish? I am hoping around 1200Dozoor wrote:Depending on your gearing some times its worth while getting a lower then stock stall speed .
Just a warning when buying a box thats fitted with a 2500rpm converter,
Its most likely fitted with a modified valve body or , shift kitted for a high performance petrol motor , if you place it behind a diesel v8 the desiel may not even achieve the rpm to swap cogs with the mods.
As mod Toy stated you carnt go below a certain piont or it dosn,t work at all - especaily when trying to change gears on the transfer case while the motor is in gear , the motor will be loading the running gear up making it hard for lockers -disconects - ect to disengage.
Just some thoughts .
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Road Ranger
Tiny wrote:nah will get some help from a mate who has a workshop, sorry this is the first auto I will have owned I dont know fark all about them, done plenty of gearxoes and clutches thoughcloughy wrote:Are fitting this yourself![]()
Need to purchase a new convertor or have yours modified, nothing you can do at home, the actual transmission will remain the same![]()
what kind of cost to modyfy the stall, found some stalls on ebay, one guy local here, might anoy him with some dumb Qs
Might be a bit hard to mod the torque converter, seeing as you'd need to change the sator and the turbine, they both spin as well.
It's more about knowing what deg of angle on the sator and the turbine blades will give you the right stall rpm.
Also most upgraded torque converters have been brazed on the inside parts so they don't burn up and fall apart.
I wouldn't have a clue about the maths required but you'll find it easier to just simply buy one, as you don't mod them.
They are like turbos.
you can also use a clutch plate or more to give you more holding power.
I have just gone through this with my 6.5. Mine dyno'd with very little torque or power under 1500 rpm so I think a 1500-1800 stall would be the best. Due to a dipstick error my 4L80E box(4 speed Turbo 400) was underfilled and my TC was stalling at 2000 rpm which was too high I had it destalled to 1500rpm but when the dipstick problem was found and an extra 3 litres of fluid was added the stall came down to 1200rpm which is to low for my engine. It would be great for a tubo or supercharged 6.5 which produce max torque at 1700rpm and have more low down power.
If you are towing the lower the stall the better as there is less slip and therfore less heat buildup but it is at the expence of take off speed.
Dominator are very helpful to deal with and know all about the diesel 6.5 converters for Chev autos.
If you are towing the lower the stall the better as there is less slip and therfore less heat buildup but it is at the expence of take off speed.
Dominator are very helpful to deal with and know all about the diesel 6.5 converters for Chev autos.
HOOYAHH
Road Ranger
thanks mate, do you have a phone number for them?deanchristensen0001 wrote:I have just gone through this with my 6.5. Mine dyno'd with very little torque or power under 1500 rpm so I think a 1500-1800 stall would be the best. Due to a dipstick error my 4L80E box(4 speed Turbo 400) was underfilled and my TC was stalling at 2000 rpm which was too high I had it destalled to 1500rpm but when the dipstick problem was found and an extra 3 litres of fluid was added the stall came down to 1200rpm which is to low for my engine. It would be great for a tubo or supercharged 6.5 which produce max torque at 1700rpm and have more low down power.
If you are towing the lower the stall the better as there is less slip and therfore less heat buildup but it is at the expence of take off speed.
Dominator are very helpful to deal with and know all about the diesel 6.5 converters for Chev autos.
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
stallspeed
one thing to make sure of is that at cruise speed (100k) that your stall convertor isnt at a higher rpm than what your tacho says otherwise you will cook your auto. you have to take into account tire size, diff ratios, final gear ratio in auto and power curve of the motor but dominator will ask you all that.
cheers hope you get it worked out
Ben
cheers hope you get it worked out
Ben
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Dreaming of getting back to KOH
Dreaming of getting back to KOH
Road Ranger
Re: stallspeed
thanks mate, cruise RPM is fairly low atm but would need to work it out based on the ratio of the auto, told tci what engine and they seem to reckon 1800 will work well, but I will do some more research once the box is in my handsHIGH ROLLER wrote:one thing to make sure of is that at cruise speed (100k) that your stall convertor isnt at a higher rpm than what your tacho says otherwise you will cook your auto. you have to take into account tire size, diff ratios, final gear ratio in auto and power curve of the motor but dominator will ask you all that.
cheers hope you get it worked out
Ben
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