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INfo for changing a spigot bearing please!!!
Moderator: Micka
INfo for changing a spigot bearing please!!!
Guys!!
I need some help/info here.
My mate has bought a "quality" Rangie, here's the specs:
81 2 door, 4.4 rebuilt leyland, lt77 4spd and transfer, 33's and lots of suspension lift.
We have diagnosed a spigot/thrust bearing issue - ie grinding like all F$#@.
I am going to assist in teh replacement of this said bearing, but am interested to hear from those who know just what to look out for when doing it?
I am organising a hoist for the job so here's my main Questions.
1. Can the Gearbox/transfer be removed without splitting ?
2. Is the bearing setup in a special way at all?
3. Is the bloke doing the right thing by also replacing the clutch at the same time? (obviously! Der!?)
4. Apparently teh gearbox uses GTX3??? WTF?
5. How long is this gonna take 2 of us to do?
Thanks guys - all info will be greatly appreciated and I am not looking forward to this messy job, but I am gonn ahelp my mate!
Cheers!!!!
I need some help/info here.
My mate has bought a "quality" Rangie, here's the specs:
81 2 door, 4.4 rebuilt leyland, lt77 4spd and transfer, 33's and lots of suspension lift.
We have diagnosed a spigot/thrust bearing issue - ie grinding like all F$#@.
I am going to assist in teh replacement of this said bearing, but am interested to hear from those who know just what to look out for when doing it?
I am organising a hoist for the job so here's my main Questions.
1. Can the Gearbox/transfer be removed without splitting ?
2. Is the bearing setup in a special way at all?
3. Is the bloke doing the right thing by also replacing the clutch at the same time? (obviously! Der!?)
4. Apparently teh gearbox uses GTX3??? WTF?
5. How long is this gonna take 2 of us to do?
Thanks guys - all info will be greatly appreciated and I am not looking forward to this messy job, but I am gonn ahelp my mate!
Cheers!!!!
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
replacing clutch will take the day its a pain but not to bad if the car has a body lift (top 2 bolts are most dificult to remove and replace 50mm body lift makes it easy).
No need to split t/case from g/box just makes it lighter to lift unless you have access to gearbox jack.
Yes fit new clutch and thrust.
Thrust bearing and carrier are now a one piece design (some 2 parts one can be found) bearing on a plastic carrier held in place by small plastic clip.
Resurface flywheel, check it for polished surface and flatness.
Spigot comes out easy may have to cut through with hacksaw blade will then fall out.
Gearbox oil was ATF but now rover recomend caltex MTF 94.
http://www.caltex.com.au/products_oil_detail.asp?id=107
Have fun
Michael.
No need to split t/case from g/box just makes it lighter to lift unless you have access to gearbox jack.
Yes fit new clutch and thrust.
Thrust bearing and carrier are now a one piece design (some 2 parts one can be found) bearing on a plastic carrier held in place by small plastic clip.
Resurface flywheel, check it for polished surface and flatness.
Spigot comes out easy may have to cut through with hacksaw blade will then fall out.
Gearbox oil was ATF but now rover recomend caltex MTF 94.
http://www.caltex.com.au/products_oil_detail.asp?id=107
Have fun
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Thanks for that Michael,
I rang up for a clutch to suit, but there's a catch....
To suit 4.4 Leyland P76 - 240mm, 24 teeth 1" shaft
To suit 3.5 rangie - 260mm, 22 teeth, 1 1/4" shaft...
Dilema - yes - have to wait till I crack it open to see what gives. and to see what Input shaft is in it...
The clutch is actually okay - just the thrust bearing is stuffed...
Getting a full gggrrrrrrrrrrr every now and then as you release the clutch.
Will suss it once I get it all opened up....
Thanks again!!
I rang up for a clutch to suit, but there's a catch....
To suit 4.4 Leyland P76 - 240mm, 24 teeth 1" shaft
To suit 3.5 rangie - 260mm, 22 teeth, 1 1/4" shaft...
Dilema - yes - have to wait till I crack it open to see what gives. and to see what Input shaft is in it...
The clutch is actually okay - just the thrust bearing is stuffed...
Getting a full gggrrrrrrrrrrr every now and then as you release the clutch.
Will suss it once I get it all opened up....
Thanks again!!
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
So then the clutch to suit will have the following info:
4.4 flywheel with clutch to suit the LT77.
So I need to confirm the LT77 input shaft size and number of splines.
Bugger.
Hmmmmm, this will be interesting...
Any idea son where to chase that info? Do you know the business name of the Land Rover mob on Stephensons Road in Box Hill? I know the guys there are the go for info but I can't remember the damn name!!?
This is all helping me track down what I need. The Thrust beraing kits - where can I source those from? Bearing Wholesalers etc????
4.4 flywheel with clutch to suit the LT77.
So I need to confirm the LT77 input shaft size and number of splines.
Bugger.
Hmmmmm, this will be interesting...
Any idea son where to chase that info? Do you know the business name of the Land Rover mob on Stephensons Road in Box Hill? I know the guys there are the go for info but I can't remember the damn name!!?
This is all helping me track down what I need. The Thrust beraing kits - where can I source those from? Bearing Wholesalers etc????
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
thrust bearing from Range rove recovery $55.00
Clutch kit bets to ring around
Rangie spares .
range rove recovery.
AMV.
Toorak tractor.
4 wheel drives.
Clutch plate should be std item from 5 speed RR. (Allsame)
Flywheel should be redrilled for Std RR pressure plate. ( this should be the only issue).
regards
Michael.
Clutch kit bets to ring around
Rangie spares .
range rove recovery.
AMV.
Toorak tractor.
4 wheel drives.
Clutch plate should be std item from 5 speed RR. (Allsame)
Flywheel should be redrilled for Std RR pressure plate. ( this should be the only issue).
regards
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
80 am only new at these things but when i stripped mine rr that is ,the front shaft bolts where a bit hard to get to ,so being a lazy egg ,we decided to just leave the shaft bolted on and believing that as we pulled the box back the slip would just seperate,Wrong the shafts don;t seperate a lot of huffing and puffing for nothing,so don;t do same dumb s%^$t as me . Ps these things way about the same as 9 speed road ranger havfun!
The prob will be a throw out bearing not a spigot bearing as rovers dont run a spigot bearing they run a brass bush so that narows your prob down a little more for you. Also the chances are you will need a pressure plate as if the throw out bearing has been locking up it will have worn big groves in the pressure plate fingers.
If the gearbox is definately a 4 speed (and not a 5 speed) then it will be an LT95 (and not a LT77) The other way to tell if its a LT95 is if the gearbox and transfer case is all in one piece (and not bolted together). This may change what pieces you are after.
The reason the gearbox uses engine oil is because the gearbox has its own oil pump to pump the oil aroung the box. If you use gear oil in them it will be to thick and will break the input shaft to the oil pump and this then will totally stuff the box cause it will not lubricate properly.
Sam
The reason the gearbox uses engine oil is because the gearbox has its own oil pump to pump the oil aroung the box. If you use gear oil in them it will be to thick and will break the input shaft to the oil pump and this then will totally stuff the box cause it will not lubricate properly.
Sam
Well the box is a 4spd, so it now must be a 95 then. But the transfer does bolt on seperately...
We have confirmed one knackered Thrust bearing.
Will be replacing the pressure plate as well, once a check has been done.
We are arranging a hoist/workshop to do the job, so weight (which I know is big!) wont be too much of an issue.
So teh issue is when we are removing the box out - do we have to belt anything to get teh bell housing off? Or is it based on seperating that from the box to get access into the box?
Our aim is to get rid of the gggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrinding noise every now and then. Hopefully teh clutch isn't shagged, but if we leave it - then I think it will be...!
We have confirmed one knackered Thrust bearing.
Will be replacing the pressure plate as well, once a check has been done.
We are arranging a hoist/workshop to do the job, so weight (which I know is big!) wont be too much of an issue.
So teh issue is when we are removing the box out - do we have to belt anything to get teh bell housing off? Or is it based on seperating that from the box to get access into the box?
Our aim is to get rid of the gggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrinding noise every now and then. Hopefully teh clutch isn't shagged, but if we leave it - then I think it will be...!
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
Early RR gearbox was 4 speed manual LT95 - gearbox and transfer housing *do not* separate (one piece aluminium casting). Strongest Rover box and very heavy.
1st 5 speed manual was LT77 + LT230T transfer bolted together. Weak gearbox also used in Rover SD1 car and Triumph TR7/TR8.
Later 5 speed manual was R380 + LT230T transfer bolted together.
1st 5 speed manual was LT77 + LT230T transfer bolted together. Weak gearbox also used in Rover SD1 car and Triumph TR7/TR8.
Later 5 speed manual was R380 + LT230T transfer bolted together.
John
N*A*M,
Physically large and heavy. Oveall dims, about 960mm lg, 500mm w and 420mm h. Apparently Rover designed rangie and foward control 101 (heavy) at about same time and made the LT95 to suit both to save developing 2 new gearboxes.
LT95 drives like a truck. Main weakness is centre diff overheating if not locked in loose stuff.
Ratios are:
4th 1:1, 3rd 1.505:1, 2nd 2.448:1, 1st 4.069:1
low 3.321:1, high 1.174:1 (early RR), 1.113:1 (later RR). Other high ratios are 1.1227:1 and 0.99621:1. No other stock low options.
Fairy made an overdrive that used the PTO. So far as I know Maxidrive make gears for the LT230 transfer case, not LT95.
Physically large and heavy. Oveall dims, about 960mm lg, 500mm w and 420mm h. Apparently Rover designed rangie and foward control 101 (heavy) at about same time and made the LT95 to suit both to save developing 2 new gearboxes.
LT95 drives like a truck. Main weakness is centre diff overheating if not locked in loose stuff.
Ratios are:
4th 1:1, 3rd 1.505:1, 2nd 2.448:1, 1st 4.069:1
low 3.321:1, high 1.174:1 (early RR), 1.113:1 (later RR). Other high ratios are 1.1227:1 and 0.99621:1. No other stock low options.
Fairy made an overdrive that used the PTO. So far as I know Maxidrive make gears for the LT230 transfer case, not LT95.
John
N*A*M wrote:Interesting... how much would I expect to pay for a 4 speed unit? It's pretty bomb-proof right? It is a physically large unit? I've only seen poor pictures but have not crawled under a Rangie for a look yet.
You should be able to find a LT95 for cheap (less than $500). I have never actually bought one seperately but there are heaps around, its just a matter of finding one. Try to get hold of sombody whose into two door rangies cause they are sure to have a couple laying around. (someone like me cause I would have 2 or 3 laying around or someone like bobtail - he would have to have the same)
Sam
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