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What to make body blocks out of

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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What to make body blocks out of

Post by Wish I had coils »

going to do a body lift what do make them out of


1 teflon Bit hard to get hold of

2 nylon uncle can get from work but said it's a bit softer then teflon

3 aluminum

4 steel Can get 20 2 inch blocks ,made and drilled for $120

bit of help
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Post by nastytroll »

aluminium or steel is good if you can get 20 blocks for $120 go that way
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Post by mcgill4433 »

my advice would be to avoid the steel blocks, i had them in my shorty for a while, they ended up cracking the body in a number of places. i now use nylon which works well.
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Post by chimpboy »

Aluminium gets my vote.
This is not legal advice.
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blocks

Post by MitchellBros4x4 »

x2 Aluminium, we retail these blocks for $14 each.
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Post by slow »

aluminum gets my vote.

1 it is not too hard so it dosent crack the body quite as much

2 it is not too soft \ brittle (have herd of nylon block cracking \ exploding under extreme conditions)
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Post by procompman »

i would see what transport department says because i know up here in qld nylon cant be used only alloy or steel i myself would go alloy
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Re: What to make body blocks out of

Post by bogged »

Balsa.
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Post by bowtie landie »

Steel or machine grade aluminium won't affect the body provided that the diameter of the blocks is at least as big as the size of the body mounts it sits on, and provided that you use grade 8.8 bolts (or gr 5 imperial) so that they do not stretch over time. Also make sure that you use locking nuts to ensure that they do not loosen over time.

The body should not be flexing, that's what the rubber is for. Hence if fitted correctly and bolted up firmly you will have no problems. We have removed a number of neoprene kits, welded up the cracks in the body, and refitted steel blocks. You could see how the neoprene blocks were starting to crush down and the body distortion and cracks were an exact match to the blocks.

We've performed MANY bodylifts using steel blocks with-out any long term problems - including competition vehicles.

Hope this helps

Peter K.
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Re: What to make body blocks out of

Post by GASDRX »

bogged wrote:Balsa.
How much $?
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Post by Wish I had coils »

Yeah cheers, i was told by 1 guy not to put blocks in, He is the guy that told me where to get 20 steel blocks for $120, he said he ripped big holes in his body, that's why i ask what people thought where better.

P.S (This guy is a bit of a KNOB) :D
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Post by cloughy »

Just use whatever you can get the cheapest ;) you won't notice fark all difference between either of then, except steel blocks get surface rust on them :D Just make sure to use high tensile bolts ;)
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Post by Vanne »

man, get the kit from ....GasDX(here on outerlimits), $120 (lwb) includes all the bolts + nuts etc...

cheers
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Post by tna racing »

the blocks mgill sed gets my votes
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Post by Vulcanised »

the black acetal ones are good..... very durable.
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Post by GASDRX »

Patrolden wrote:the black acetal ones are good..... very durable.
I have been using a mix of acetal or nylon for the blocks for while now, harder than nylon and still very durable. I just call them nylon otherwise i would get too many questions regarding it, they look the same are stronger but dearer material to buy.
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Post by sidewayz »

cut down boat trailer rollers.

;)

already have crush washers too
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Post by Wish I had coils »

Yeah i like the boat roller idea!!! I priced up some polly urathann (stuffed if i know how to spell it) about the same strength as teflon but with out the sliding abilty which i don't need any way.
Long story short About $50 and $25 for bolts not to bad if you have a lathe at hand :lol:
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Post by jungle_surfer »

Where'd you get the polyurethane boat rollers for $50? Did they come with crush tubes?

In comparing these different materials, are we all talking about similar dimensions? I'd guess the plastics are around 60mm diameter... on the other hand, I've seen steel 'blocks' cut out of steel pipe that probably would have been about 30 - 40mm in diameter. Are you guys who are advocating steel / aluminium talking about big-diameter rod, with a small (12mm ish) hole bored through, or pipe?

(Yeah, I'm looking for blocks too...)
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Post by GASDRX »

Mine are 76mm diameter and would not put any smaller.
Bigger the better remember ;)
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Post by simcoe »

yeah id go the boat rollers as well.. ;)
worked well in my old gq.went 40mm
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Post by Wish I had coils »

body lift done ages ago :) went two inch cost me $75 and had enough material to make another kit took about 2 hours of my time very happy with it :D just waiting on my new springs to sit the old girl straight again ;)
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Post by jungle_surfer »

BTW, I've heard some people saying that the plastic blocks aren't legal without the so-called 'crush tubes' in them... does anyone know if this is true?
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Post by Wish I had coils »

thats most likey right, BUT!!!! Who is going to get under your car and have a look. It's pretty hard to tell wether or not the blocks have crush tubes i them any way
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Post by jungle_surfer »

The counter-argument (assuming it's true that 'crush tubes' are required) is that if you have an accident, your insurance company may not honor your claim...

**shrug**
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LIFT BLOCKS

Post by lukes4x4 »

MMMMMM Nylon !
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Alluminium

Post by MD4x4 »

There is a problem using Alluminium.

It sets up galvanic action with the steel bolts and the Aluminum "grows".

Once this happens you have huge dramas replacing bolts and blocks.

MD
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