Long rear arms

Post by **Clarkie** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:48 pm

Has anyone tryed/made the long arm lower rear suspension set up?
does it work well etc?

Post by **fatassgq** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:52 pm

They work wonders for the Patrol rear end mate.

Stops most of the bouncing etc encountered with lifted patrols when they are climbing stuff. Keeps the wheels a lot more central in the wheel arch, stops a lot of the pinnion angle change under flex etc etc.

The main advantage of em though is when climbing etc. they work a treat.

Post by **badger** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:58 pm

superior does a full bolt in/ weld in kit. i think its around 700 ? with there long arms etc.
looks awesome. i will put one in mine one day when funds/time permits

Post by **sidewayz** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:24 pm

how much extra flex is gained?

or does it just provide better ride characteristics and less rear steer?

Post by **rover1** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:37 pm

do you make the upper arms longer too or just the lowers? same with A-frame - are the arms the same lenght?

this looks like something else i can do to mine that wont cost me any coin.

Post by **sudso** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:52 am

sidewayz wrote:how much extra flex is gained?

or does it just provide better ride characteristics and less rear steer?

I'd say it would improve the flex a bit, because the arms are longer they dont end up on the extreme angles like stock arms do under flex, and the bushes are less stressed to.
Someone correct me if thats wrong though.

Post by **nastytroll** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 1:56 am

you are partly right, look at offroad race cars like the dodges n f truck style thigs run in the BAJA 1000. Very long rear suspension n soaks up all the bumps at high speed

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 2:51 pm

Unconventionally I actually like my Shorties wheel base and I'd like to do something like this to the rear, without stretching. The main problem being that the chassis tapers inwards towards the front of the car, so you simply couldn't weld the mount on further down the chassis

as has been done in that pic

Anyone got any ideas ?

Post by **Nelso** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:55 pm

Triangulate your lower rear arms and put them inside the chassis rail, and triangulate your uppers to make a four link. A1 and Wendle did it to their GQs when they had them. I hope they don't mind me sharing this info or photos.

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 8:11 pm

Cheers mate...

And I remember A1's and wendles buildup threads.. when they had pics...

bring back the pics

I was thinking of keeping the 5 link kind of thing... longer arms and re welded mounts. Was hoping someone had come up with a solution to the tapered chassis thing... but I can't see that there would be one...

Post by **Vulcanised** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 9:17 am

i got a price for mine the other day..... $400 for a pair of arms, and $200 each for the mounts. 800 bux all up. I'm going to machine new crush tubes at work, and cut off the old mounts.

Post by **Clarkie** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 8:42 pm

What lenght do you make them?
Is there a correct lenght per height of lift etc?
I take it the upper arms arent changed at all?

Shane

Post by **chunderlicious** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 9:04 pm

uppers stay the same, length stays the same. the idea behind it is to get the lowers pointing to the top bolt of the bellhousing like standard to help them climb and reduce the roll centre.

Post by **sudso** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 4:18 pm

It's basically the same principle that drags racers use for launching traction, except most of their sets ups are adjustable.

Post by **GUJohnno** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 1:01 pm

Who has done this and how is it going?

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Long rear arms

Long rear arms

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