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Front wheel brgs.

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Front wheel brgs.

Post by ZOOK92 »

I just need to know what size socket is required to remove the wheel bearing nuts. Is it 50mm or different. Just need to know, so i dont pull the car down without the correct socket.
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Post by Roctoy »

from memory it's 52mm but you'll have a hard time trying to find one, use a flat blade screw driver and a hammer and tap them around.

dont forget to fold back the captive washer tags first.
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Post by dogbreath_48 »

I can't remember the size and mines locked in the back of my brothers ute. But 52 or 54mm IIRC!

Got mine from alltools (special order).

They really make life alot easier!

-Stu :)
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Post by cooter »

Roctoy Designfab wrote:from memory it's 52mm but you'll have a hard time trying to find one, use a flat blade screw driver and a hammer and tap them around.

dont forget to fold back the captive washer tags first.
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:shock: maybe a chisel would be safer
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Post by cooter »

ring all 4x4 spares at kotara 49571117 (thats sad i remember their number) they stock them bout 25 bucks and would more than likely send it to you
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Post by the unbreakable luxtruxs »

I think you are right with the 52mm,
Whilst on the wheel brng topic, how does everyone set there brngs, as in how tight then how far back, Interested to see how many different opinions there are on this one???
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Post by Sic Lux »

Pft used screw drivers and chisses yeah it works ok decide to spend 30 bucks on ebay and get a socket and i reckon money well spent this is the guy i get mine through and yeah no dramas http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-HUB-NUT-S ... dZViewItem
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Post by Tapage »

The best tool ever :D

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Post by dumbdunce »

the unbreakable luxtruxs wrote: Whilst on the wheel brng topic, how does everyone set there brngs, as in how tight then how far back,
RTFM! there is only one right way.
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Post by NiftyNev »

54mm. Some say 55mm for the Cruisers. I don't know about that but 54mm fits the Surf perfectly.

Nev
'92 Toyota Surf LN130
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Post by the unbreakable luxtruxs »

dumbdunce wrote:
the unbreakable luxtruxs wrote: Whilst on the wheel brng topic, how does everyone set there brngs, as in how tight then how far back,
RTFM! there is only one right way.
I know that, but i have herd, many different 'bush mechanics' version,
I work with brngs for a crust, so I got 1/2 an idea what I am dooing, :finger:
just interested to see how many different opinions on the subject, cause the correct way is quiet difficult to do without the correct equipment if you do it like it says in the manual!!
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Post by dumbdunce »

the unbreakable luxtruxs wrote:
dumbdunce wrote:
the unbreakable luxtruxs wrote: Whilst on the wheel brng topic, how does everyone set there brngs, as in how tight then how far back,
RTFM! there is only one right way.
I know that, but i have herd, many different 'bush mechanics' version,
I work with brngs for a crust, so I got 1/2 an idea what I am dooing, :finger:
just interested to see how many different opinions on the subject, cause the correct way is quiet difficult to do without the correct equipment if you do it like it says in the manual!!
\
the 'correct equipment' is a $5 spring scale and a piece of string, and the socket currently under discussion.

to do it without a spring scale you're guessing, and with some experience it is possible to get it pretty right. wind it up until the nut stops, then turn it back until it turns with a minimum drag, but without any slop in the wheel bearing. it is easier to get it close with the wheel on.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
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Post by the unbreakable luxtruxs »

dumbdunce wrote:
the unbreakable luxtruxs wrote:
dumbdunce wrote:
the unbreakable luxtruxs wrote: Whilst on the wheel brng topic, how does everyone set there brngs, as in how tight then how far back,
RTFM! there is only one right way.
I know that, but i have herd, many different 'bush mechanics' version,
I work with brngs for a crust, so I got 1/2 an idea what I am dooing, :finger:
just interested to see how many different opinions on the subject, cause the correct way is quiet difficult to do without the correct equipment if you do it like it says in the manual!!
\
the 'correct equipment' is a $5 spring scale and a piece of string, and the socket currently under discussion.

to do it without a spring scale you're guessing, and with some experience it is possible to get it pretty right. wind it up until the nut stops, then turn it back until it turns with a minimum drag, but without any slop in the wheel bearing. it is easier to get it close with the wheel on.
And that is pretty much how I do it shag!, Just that my scal cost a bit more, (don't trust $5 tool) but i know what you mean, and mine has chain not string, but all in all the same, just got caught out recently without it, took a few goes, set put whel on check etc, got it pretty good though.
I have herd a few differnt rules of thumb over the years though..
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Post by NiftyNev »

Best way is the Timken way. After all they make the bearings so they should know.

Nev
'92 Toyota Surf LN130
2.4 Turbo Diesel
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Post by mickdundee.. »

My 80 takes the 54mm :roll: cheers mick
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Post by Tapage »

54mm in my books ..

anycase the wheel bearings adjust to me it's a matter of feeling .. the FSM claims for ride test and re tighten .. ( crazy stuff .. ! )

I thight it until I " feel " it's fine .. take some turns to the wheel ( on jackstands ) and re check .. and let it go.
HJ-60 2H-T Intercoled [url=http://4x4panama.com/foros/viewtopic.php?t=2770]Tencha[/url]
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