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R380 Conversion Issues
Moderator: Micka
R380 Conversion Issues
Replacing the LT77 on the Disco with an R380 box sourced from SA - genuine 80 00ks so they say. But the box arrived without any transfer lever assembly nor the transfer shift rod. Also came with a 'bonus' clutch assembly described 'good', but of course it was scrap material:)
Don't you just love wreckers, sorry parts recyclers!
OK should be able to transfer the old transfer stick assembly and actuating rod across, right?
Wrong, the R380 has a different actuating rod set up, being made of flat bar with several upward bends to account for the fact that the R380 box is about 30mm longer than the LT77, whereas the old one was made from straight folded metal running directly from the diff-lock lever up past the pivot point on the gearbox side, and fixing to the end of the sliding transfer/diff-lock actuating assembly up top.
In a bit of a hurry to get vehicle back on the road and can't stand the thought of wrangling with the wrecker atm, so I managed to 'borrow' a R380 diff-lock actuating rod which fits to the existing diff-lock lever and pivot point no worries. I have bolted it to the transfer lever actuating rod end for the moment and should work. But the transfer lever itself won't move far enough across the gate to engage the diff-lock lever fully. It gets about half-way each way it moves.
So, is the transfer lever assembly on the R380 different to the LT77? I guess it must have a different lever effect or position in relation to the transfer case given that the LT77 lever plus the R380 actuating rod does not work as it should. I could grind out the transfer lever gate to allow more side movement but that will probably cause the lever to foul the console and boot assembly up top.
Has anyone come across this problem and if so what is the solution please?
Don't you just love wreckers, sorry parts recyclers!
OK should be able to transfer the old transfer stick assembly and actuating rod across, right?
Wrong, the R380 has a different actuating rod set up, being made of flat bar with several upward bends to account for the fact that the R380 box is about 30mm longer than the LT77, whereas the old one was made from straight folded metal running directly from the diff-lock lever up past the pivot point on the gearbox side, and fixing to the end of the sliding transfer/diff-lock actuating assembly up top.
In a bit of a hurry to get vehicle back on the road and can't stand the thought of wrangling with the wrecker atm, so I managed to 'borrow' a R380 diff-lock actuating rod which fits to the existing diff-lock lever and pivot point no worries. I have bolted it to the transfer lever actuating rod end for the moment and should work. But the transfer lever itself won't move far enough across the gate to engage the diff-lock lever fully. It gets about half-way each way it moves.
So, is the transfer lever assembly on the R380 different to the LT77? I guess it must have a different lever effect or position in relation to the transfer case given that the LT77 lever plus the R380 actuating rod does not work as it should. I could grind out the transfer lever gate to allow more side movement but that will probably cause the lever to foul the console and boot assembly up top.
Has anyone come across this problem and if so what is the solution please?
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
OK go back to sleep - problem fixed thanks to the Ashcroft web site.
I've been trying to make the diff lock lever move to three positions, ie., counter clockwise, centre and clockwise, but Rover don't tell you that the Counter clockwise position is not actually used. So when the level is set to centre and clockwise only, it works perfectly.
Ah, Rovers, don't you just love them.
PS Ashcroft also warns of a further problem caused by fitting a longer transfer-to-gearbox bolt which jams up the gear train - had this happen too!
Note to myself: always read Mr Ashcroft before working on Rover
I've been trying to make the diff lock lever move to three positions, ie., counter clockwise, centre and clockwise, but Rover don't tell you that the Counter clockwise position is not actually used. So when the level is set to centre and clockwise only, it works perfectly.
Ah, Rovers, don't you just love them.
PS Ashcroft also warns of a further problem caused by fitting a longer transfer-to-gearbox bolt which jams up the gear train - had this happen too!
Note to myself: always read Mr Ashcroft before working on Rover
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/
Theyre a pommy company doing cool stuff to rover drivelines.
Andy
Theyre a pommy company doing cool stuff to rover drivelines.
Andy
Dam wish I'd read this before installing the gearbox!. No worries will do so soon as I can.
R380 gearbox is in and is much better than the old LT77, shifts a lot smoother, no baulking on down shifts and so far so good. New clutch is great too, got an Excedy unit and has good bite and no judders.
Only the engine remains original now:)
R380 gearbox is in and is much better than the old LT77, shifts a lot smoother, no baulking on down shifts and so far so good. New clutch is great too, got an Excedy unit and has good bite and no judders.
Only the engine remains original now:)
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
glad you found it useful, I spend ages typing stuff up that I get asked and wondered if anyone read it !Reddo wrote:OK go back to sleep - problem fixed thanks to the Ashcroft web site.
I've been trying to make the diff lock lever move to three positions, ie., counter clockwise, centre and clockwise, but Rover don't tell you that the Counter clockwise position is not actually used. So when the level is set to centre and clockwise only, it works perfectly.
Ah, Rovers, don't you just love them.
PS Ashcroft also warns of a further problem caused by fitting a longer transfer-to-gearbox bolt which jams up the gear train - had this happen too!
Note to myself: always read Mr Ashcroft before working on Rover
Dave
www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk
www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk
Hey Reddo, I can't find that bit on Ashcroft's site. Reckon you could dig out the link?Reddo wrote:OK go back to sleep - problem fixed thanks to the Ashcroft web site.
I've been trying to make the diff lock lever move to three positions, ie., counter clockwise, centre and clockwise, but Rover don't tell you that the Counter clockwise position is not actually used. So when the level is set to centre and clockwise only, it works perfectly.
Ah, Rovers, don't you just love them.
PS Ashcroft also warns of a further problem caused by fitting a longer transfer-to-gearbox bolt which jams up the gear train - had this happen too!
Note to myself: always read Mr Ashcroft before working on Rover
Ashcroft gold mine of info is here
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html
recommend you read this before doing anything on your Rover drive train - but if you are male, this will be very difficult, I know. So like me, just go ahead, stuff it up and then read it:)
R380 box is in and a test drive revealed some minor baulking shifting into 3rd from 2nd- worse when cold. Hopefully this will ease when we finally work out how to bleed the bleeding stupid clutch set up as the clutch is low on the pedal probably due to air trapped in the top of the pipe where it rises (for no good reason I can see) after leaving the master cylinder.
Going to put in some GB new oil too, otherwise the box works fine, no strange noises or crunching on downshifts at all. Funny thing is if you shift fast and hard from 2nd to 3rd, there's no baulking into 3rd at all.
Only other issue is a leaking transfer case inspection plate gasket - used proper RTC this time rather than the usual gutter silicon sealant, and the RTC leaks at bit:(
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html
recommend you read this before doing anything on your Rover drive train - but if you are male, this will be very difficult, I know. So like me, just go ahead, stuff it up and then read it:)
R380 box is in and a test drive revealed some minor baulking shifting into 3rd from 2nd- worse when cold. Hopefully this will ease when we finally work out how to bleed the bleeding stupid clutch set up as the clutch is low on the pedal probably due to air trapped in the top of the pipe where it rises (for no good reason I can see) after leaving the master cylinder.
Going to put in some GB new oil too, otherwise the box works fine, no strange noises or crunching on downshifts at all. Funny thing is if you shift fast and hard from 2nd to 3rd, there's no baulking into 3rd at all.
Only other issue is a leaking transfer case inspection plate gasket - used proper RTC this time rather than the usual gutter silicon sealant, and the RTC leaks at bit:(
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
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