5 LINK

[poppeye]

i am about to do a new suspension set up on my GQ shorty which involves putting a 5link front end in i have a few questions who has them and what do they think of them. who makes the best ones (strongest and best flex) and can i please have some picks of them also if i dont put a 5 link in i was going to put some radius arms in and do an x link is this a better setup if so 3rds arms or snake racing
anyhelp would be great

Cheers

[poppeye]

anyone got any ideas if you have a better setup idea tell us im open to ideas basicly i am looking for maximum flex from a 5 inch coil any setup ideas front and rear would be awesome

[KIWI]

Superior A Frame rear and xlink front?

[bulldogy]

I dont think you need the other arms for the front just use the standard arms with the X link.

Just retain the coils in the rear like i said and use cones cheaper and easier.

[mud4b]

yup use either the std arms or the other type with a x-link, both setups will probable give around the same travel but the x-link will work smoother and safer on the road.

cheers mark

[MyGQ]

About to look at a X-Link for my 7" lifted GQ.

I have the STD arms on my setup with caster plates. If i got X-Link do i keep the plates and bolt the X-Link to them or to the arms ?

[JemmyBubbles]

Nar mate you chuck the plates in the bin. You work out how much castor you want and weld the swivel/nob thing in the centre of the diff the x link bolts to that and front of arms bolt to xlink.

To give you an indication of the amount of flex you'll get out of an xlink setup with standard arms, remove the passenger side front radius arm bolt (only doooo it off road though ) and drive the thing up a ramp/stump whatever. edit: Doing this works better with the 7 degree castor plates, with the 5 degree castor plates the front of the radius arm hits the crush tube on full up travel... you'll see what I mean..

IMHO with anything over or around 4" lift I wouldn't put an xlink on without dropped radius arms/drop boxes, as the bush at the chassis end is still maxed out.... therefore down travel is limited......

[MyGQ]

ok well that makes sense, i think i will get some dropped one from the guy on the forum here, people have said the are good.

what do you mean by work out your caster. does teh swivel nob not go in the center of the diff housing if need to have caster? haven't got much of a clue on that part

[bulldogy]

Yer the swivel Knob will be placed in the proper posiyion for caster.

Im sure if you email or ring chad they will explain how to get the castor you will need for the lift you have.

[sierrajim]

i am about to do a new suspension set up on my GQ shorty which involves putting a 5link front end in i have a few questions who has them and what do they think of them. who makes the best ones (strongest and best flex) and can i please have some picks of them also if i dont put a 5 link in i was going to put some radius arms in and do an x link is this a better setup if so 3rds arms or snake racing
anyhelp would be great

Cheers

What sort of driving do you want to do? Faster winch type comps, weekend wheeling, slow crawling??

Its my understanding from reading the Looooong thread about X links is that you DO need a sway bar to drive on the road safely (could be wrong though) What do you want your to do that it doesn't do already?

[KIWI]

From talking to Chad at Dobbin Engineering about the xlink, it is recommended to run a disconnectable swaybar on the front.
I'm told that the difference in handling with a xlink is comparible to removing the front swaybar, so not running a swaybar with an xlink sounds like it could be dodgy if you need to swerve suddenly on road.

[professor]

From talking to Chad at Dobbin Engineering about the xlink, it is recommended to run a disconnectable swaybar on the front.
I'm told that the difference in handling with a xlink is comparible to removing the front swaybar, so not running a swaybar with an xlink sounds like it could be dodgy if you need to swerve suddenly on road.

Yeah we are making people aware that it is more flexy and that it is advisable for your own safty to run the swaybar thats all, there are a few that run them without (to save the disconnect reconect hassal)
V8 super car? NO
flexy 4by? hell yeah.

Chad

[poppeye]

i just want more flex i will be doing all events in wa this year and next so rock crawling to mud events to weekend wheeling so if its recommend to use dropped radius arms who makes the best and who makes the good ones every talks about on forum

[bulldogy]

If you are going to compete here then you would be better keeping the GQ with a 4" spring lift especialy in the rocks. you need it low.

Johns mav has a 2.5" spring lift.

Use what you have. Didnt you say you had 4" lift i cant remember.

Chad will they work with standard arms and 4" lift how much more flex will he get if he uses drop boxes or arms?

Dave

[1MadEngineer]

i just want more flex i will be doing all events in wa this year and next so rock crawling to mud events to weekend wheeling so if its recommend to use dropped radius arms who makes the best and who makes the good ones every talks about on forum

in the next month or two SUPERIOR ENG will hopefully release a new style of competition HI-FLEX drop arms, they are still a drop radius arm style setup but the nondrive (passenger) side is a totally different style arm and this has the 2 bushes in a totally different plane to STD style arms. This allows big flex and eliminates the bushs tearing like on typical drop-arm applications, also the amount of torque acting on the body is very uniform left-right so it doesnt get that horrid torque twist and rolly effect when a swaybar is not used.

these used in conjunction with there already comp proven LONG-ARM kit will easily max out 15" rancho or procomp shocks before bind!!! Front and Rear!!

[bulldogy]

in the next month or two SUPERIOR ENG will hopefully release a new style of competition HI-FLEX drop arms, they are still a drop radius arm style setup but the nondrive (passenger) side is a totally different style arm and this has the 2 bushes in a totally different plane to STD style arms. This allows big flex and eliminates the bushs tearing like on typical drop-arm applications, also the amount of torque acting on the body is very uniform left-right so it doesnt get that horrid torque twist and rolly effect when a swaybar is not used.

these used in conjunction with there already comp proven LONG-ARM kit will easily max out 15" rancho or procomp shocks before bind!!! Front and Rear!![/quote]

IS there much in the way of modifications to suit these new arms as in cutting and welding.

Dave

[1MadEngineer]

IS there much in the way of modifications to suit these new arms as in cutting and welding.

Dave

no welding, they will be a direct bolt in item. (i am helping him out with the design stuff - Finite element analysis of the arms) we are currently playing with the amount of torque reaction required back into the chassis to get good grip and ride. note: these are never going to be as flexy as an Xlink but are designed to be for comp style rigs that need to put power to the ground when all flexed up and/or around corners , and not make them tippy. hopefully for the 4-6" lift winch/allterrain/xrcc type rigs.

[sidewayz]

in the next month or two SUPERIOR ENG will hopefully release a new style of competition HI-FLEX drop arms, they are still a drop radius arm style setup but the nondrive (passenger) side is a totally different style arm and this has the 2 bushes in a totally different plane to STD style arms. This allows big flex and eliminates the bushs tearing like on typical drop-arm applications, also the amount of torque acting on the body is very uniform left-right so it doesnt get that horrid torque twist and rolly effect when a swaybar is not used.

these used in conjunction with there already comp proven LONG-ARM kit will easily max out 15" rancho or procomp shocks before bind!!! Front and Rear!!

sounds pretty awesome. keep us updated with these!