Pulled my front LHS axle assembly apart to replace a "clicking" CV joint only to find the outer case of the inner bearing had shattered - Timken bearing too. It looked as if it had been broken for a while but the truck drove well and even passed a warrant of fitness test. Before taking the wheel off I could feel just a slight movement, but nothing to worry about.
However I have two questions for the gurus.
1) The first is a perennial one. How do you tighten the outer locknut without shearing the inner tab on the lock washer?
My normal procedure is to tighten the inner locknut quite firmly to seat the new bearing properly, then back it off so that the wheel turns smoothly. I then fit the lock washer, bend a tab over the inner nut and next fit the outer locknut and tighten it to the specified torque before bending a tab of the lock washer over the outer nut.
The trouble is that when tightening the outer nut I almost invariably find that the inner tab of the lock washer shears and the washer and inner nut both turn with the outer nut locking the bearing solid. I have tried greasing the lock washer but it makes little difference. This time I went through 2 new Nissan washers and 1 substitute Toyota washer before finally getting my last (Toyota) one to stick.
I understand from this forum that there is a modified locking system using bolts available for later model GQs. Does this mod fit the MQ as well? If so what is required? Incidentally I note from the "bible" that the lock nuts are stated as being 53mm or 54mm yet I use a standard 52mm socket which fits perfectly.
2) My second question is a bit odd and concerns axle clearances. I have an ARB locker in the C200 front diff which has worked fine for the last 7 or 8 years. A few years ago I changed the diff ratios and the new diff came complete with axle housing. As my old one had been bent slightly I changed the ARB to the "new" diff and axle housing. When I went to replace the axle I found that I could not tighten the stub axle housing to the swivel housing. There was about a 2mm gap.
I got round this by machining 2mm off the inner lip of the axle oil seal bearing surface and fitting 1mm packing between the stub axle and the swivel housing. Has anyone else struck this problem? Is it related to the ARB locker or the axle housing? Any idea what the axle is fouling? And how much end play should there be in the axle?
Any comments on either of the above would be appreciated.
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MQ Front bearings and axle assembly
MQ Front bearings and axle assembly
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
The GU locknuts do fit the MQ stub axle with a slight modification - a second keyway needs to be cut in the stub axle.
For pics and part nos see my post on thread
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... 23#1167023
For pics and part nos see my post on thread
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... 23#1167023
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
It would be more secure with a second keyway. But I take it you have had no problems.MQPatrol wrote:I ground the extra tab off, done this conversion ages ago.
If your running factory freewheeling hubs the screw heads might ride up on the dog clutch thingie, i have avm's so its not a drama.
Thanks for the tip about manual hubs (which I have). I will keep an eye on the clearance when I fit them. But I don't think it will be a problem as the original locknut is the same thickness as the new one and the second original locknut is thicker than the new washer plus bolt head combined not taking account of the old tab washer.
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
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