Diff ratio differences

[Dexter]

Hey guys I have a NL pajero with the 3.5 in it which means I have the 4.6 diff ratios. I was thinking of oneday moving to SAS and using a hilux front diff as Frank/Cheezy's setup does however the hiluxs come in a 4.88 or a 5.29. What I want to know is, is the difference between the 4.88 and the 4.6 too great to run front to rear, or should I be looking into the 2.8TD diffs which as 4.9 I believe?

Thanks dudes

[Ian Sharpe]

mate, thats almost a 5% difference, way too much.

You could swap in a 4.90 from a NJ/NK/NL diesel which would be much closer the Toy 4.88.

I swapped in 4.90s front & rear when I had my NK.

cheers

[Bitsamissin]

Yes I went through the same issues.
Seeing you have the 3.5 your limited to 4.636 or 4.90 and have to match that with the closest Tojo ratio.
You could go 4.88 Tojo front and 4.90 Mitsi rear - that would be ok the driveline can cope with about a 1% ratio variation without generating too much wind up.
My advice is to go high pinion front eg - Bundera or Cruiser diff cenre in a braced Hilux housing - ARB locker, treated CV's and genuine C&P (Tojo = Asano) and that will be the strongest combo you can have.
This also allows the front propshaft to line up better to the t/case and it is also about 2-3" higher off the ground.
This will cope with 35" tyres easily but if your regularly busting stuff after that then you have to look at driving style and or something not set up correctly.
The high pinion diff is also about 30% stronger in foward rotation compared to a Hilux low pinion centre.
The 3.5 Mitsi rear axles/diff are strong as so no probs there.
Another option is to just put 80 Series Cruiser axles front and rear - this will give you about 2" wider track (shallower offset rims can drag that back if you want to be totally legal). You get the bigger brakes & CV's and a fully floating rear end without loosing too much rear diff ground clearance (about 0.25").
Just depends on what you want to do with it and how much $$$ you have.

[Dexter]

Bitsamissin to tell you the truth I am still eyeing off your old one and trying to weigh up the options. Now that I know that I wouldent have to look into serious diff/axel changes in the front it looks all the more attractive.

Thanks guys

[j-top paj]

didnt someone buy franks old one already?

can you get a hold of some 5.29s? and then toyo 5.29s too.

[Dexter]

didnt someone buy franks old one already?

can you get a hold of some 5.29s? and then toyo 5.29s too.

I dont know, havent been keeping up with the thread. The 5.29s dont fit the bigger rear diff in the 3.5 and diesel from what I have read so the largest you can go is 4.90.

[Bitsamissin]

Yes the Jabber has been sold I will post details soon.
I honestly don't believe with a 5sp 3.5 DOHC or SOHC you will require 5.29's. There is much more torque available in the 3.5 and 4.90 would be plenty for a 5sp running 35"s.
5.29's with a 3.0 5sp running 35"s was about right IMHO.
Some of the US guys run 35"s with 4.90's and auto 3.5 DOHC and they feel this is a good combo.
There is no 5.29 available for the 9.5" rear 3.5 diff anyway (4.90 is the lowest) so you would have to convert to a 3.0 assembly which will give you more ground clearance but at the expense of weeker axles.
If it were me I would go 80 Series front and rear as your getting a lot of upgrades.
But compromising would be a leaving the 3.5 rear with a 4.90 and a Cruiser front with high pinion 4.88.
Remember a 80 Series has about 5" wider track than a Lux/Bundera.
You will need 2 x 1.5" spacers for the Lux diff anyway to match the Paj front track.
If you just go Cruiser you will end up with 2" wider front track which can be offset by rims to match the rear.
With the Cruiser you get the high pinion front, larger CV's and bigger brakes but can still run 15" rims. It's for the Cruiser rear that you need 16" rims to clear the calipers (but with a little grinding they will take 15"s).