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Lowrange 4.9's

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

Posts: 356
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2006 12:47 pm
Location: geelong

Post by ronoor »

i think if youre car is 1990 or over it will have the h/d output shaft. cheers ron
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Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 1:09 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld

Post by want33s »

croatian4x4 wrote:did you have to buy the transfer rebuild kit seperatley or was it provided with the 4.9s? Also is it worth buying the HD Transfer Case Front Output Shaft or not real worth it??
I had to buy the bearing kit as an extra.
Ask Gwagensteve about the heavy duty shaft...... "If you can break it.......- ......I will eat it!" I beleive is what he said. I would translate that to mean the smaller toothed version (pre 1989-90)is fine.
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Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 10:21 pm
Location: Hobart

Post by Spike_Sierra »

the bearing kit is an extra 79 dollars us, shipping to my door in tassie was 110us. the bearings fit perfectly and also comes with new shifter sheet and all output seals, the only thing mine didnt come with was 1 big needle bearing that goes on the largest gear(the one thats on the right hand side)
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Posts: 242
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Location: Perth, WA

Post by croatian4x4 »

cheers mates,
you can disregard you pm now:P
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Post by 11_evl »

as a matter of intrest, did anyone do the 2L mod while it was apart
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Location: Sunshine Coast Qld

4.9 gears

Post by want33s »

11_evl wrote:as a matter of intrest, did anyone do the 2L mod while it was apart
I did. :armsup: Just removed the ball between the selector shafts. The single stick works as normal or as a secret pattern.

http://www.suzukiclubuk.com/lowrockmod.html
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Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 10:21 pm
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Post by Spike_Sierra »

damnit i didnt know it was that easy. which one do you remove, the one between the two shafts,the one where the screw is or the one thats deep in the case?

edit: answered my own question, its the one thats inbetween the two shafts.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Posts: 775
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 8:10 pm
Location: under the wifes thumb

Post by zookjedi »

my gears etc turned up the other day , very fast freight , only drama being i bought to much and now i got to pay %20 more in taxes and stamp duty etc :x not to mention at least another week before they are cleared , the kicker is i have another cheaper lot coming over (as they weren't ready at the time of the last lot ) so had i known i would have split the lot in two and saved a decent amount of cash , (that i could have spent on more stuff :D )

so once again hats off for Sean very fast and efficent service and keeps you informed all the way .

and thumbs down to dumb sh!ts like me that dont find stuff out like this till its to late (expensive )

and yes i know someone on hear mentioned the $1000 limit or be hit with taxes etc but it was already to late :oops:

cheers Jai
if its worth doing do it intensly , better still do it with MADPASSION

set your limits way beyond your abilities
Posts: 713
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Location: Brisbane

Re: gears

Post by Hybrid »

want33s wrote:I HAD to buy a press. (6000kg supercrap $119) Missus thought that was a bit much till I explained how much I saved by fitting gears myself. Bring on the weekend :lol:
I'm looking for a cheap press to do my gears on the weekend. Are these a pretty common item at supercheap or did they have to order it in? I've never noticed them in there before.
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Post by want33s »

I bought it off the shelf. they had 6,000kg and 10,000kg versions.
My local (Maroochydore) store still has them so other supercrap stores should be able to get one for you.
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Location: Hobart

Post by Spike_Sierra »

alternatively you could just buy a 3 claw bearing puller. then to get the bearings on use a bit of pipe with rubber on the bottom. Works a treat.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Posts: 200
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:29 pm
Location: Launceston

Post by CairnsZook »

One of the engineers on the ship suggested I should "cook" the bearings in lube oil. 120 degrees and they will slip straight on he reckons. Anyone tried this?
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Post by want33s »

Boiling oil sounds a lot more trouble/dangerous than using a press. :shock:
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Post by zookimal »

want33s wrote:I bought it off the shelf. they had 6,000kg and 10,000kg versions.
My local (Maroochydore) store still has them so other supercrap stores should be able to get one for you.
They're a standard line. All stores should have them.
-Mal

Zook 1, 2, 3 gone
Patrol - Wheels, engine and stuff
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Location: Brisbane

Post by Hybrid »

Nice one. Thanks guys.
Posts: 194
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:07 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by mick85 »

Good to hear about the gears!! :) either im emailing it wrong or i suck at pm'ing but using the internet i havent been able to get onto sean @ lowrange for at least 2 weeks now!

I emailed sales@lowrangeoffroad.com 3 times and pm'd him here with no luck - :cry: maybe im just not meant to have 6.5's :cry:
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Post by croatian4x4 »

just ring him mate. He is great to talk to, my 4.9s and rebuild kit are on the way :)
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Post by mick85 »

mine are coming now too :P
God Of Emo
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Post by lay80n »

CairnsZook wrote:One of the engineers on the ship suggested I should "cook" the bearings in lube oil. 120 degrees and they will slip straight on he reckons. Anyone tried this?
heating metal expands it, cooling metal contracts it. If you want to try it, put your bearings in your oven, and put your shafts in your freezer :silly:
it might make install easier. :)

Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Posts: 200
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Location: Launceston

Post by CairnsZook »

If I was still on the gas tanker I could cryo-freeze them at -140.
Somehow I don't think the kitchen freezer would cut it. :roll:

While we're on the subject - what diameter / length tube do I need to "tap" the gears and bearings on with a hammer? I can chop a bit of tube here and then tap them on when I get home?
Posts: 194
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Post by mick85 »

mine are here!!

ok the next question, this is going to be a dumb question probably, so dont flame me :finger: i know there are a few bolts which hold the case in the chassis, i have just as the sun went down unplugged all wires etc, with regard to the front and rear tailshafts, where do i disconnect them from and how there are 4 bolts holding them to the front and rear of the case, but something in the middle holding them???!!?

im cluey at tinkering with things so the gears are fine, but never removed a tcase from a 4wd before so how do i go about it??? :oops: id like to get the case out tomorrw morning so i have a while to run around and get any extra bits i need :)

help help!
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Location: Perth WA.

Post by nicbeer »

unplug 4wd switch
ubolt the 4 bolts on each shaft at transfer case end.
unbolt all mounting points and then drop to ground. i use a trolley jack to aid it down.

some people take out the lever, i didnt on the last one but did put it in with it out.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
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Post by mick85 »

nicbeer wrote:unplug 4wd switch
ubolt the 4 bolts on each shaft at transfer case end.
unbolt all mounting points and then drop to ground. i use a trolley jack to aid it down.

some people take out the lever, i didnt on the last one but did put it in with it out.
thanks!

well ive done that, i took out the 4wd light plug, the speedo cable thingy i think, took out the bolts on each of the 3 shafts (marked them as well for when i put it back in)

and lower it down, i didnt do that hahaha! just checking if there was anything else - also i am going to drain it before i take it out but the filler plugs underneath are square headed nuts? special tool or what have you guys done to remove them? i have soaked in wd40 for starters.
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Post by want33s »

mick85 wrote: also i am going to drain it before i take it out but the filler plugs underneath are square headed nuts? special tool or what have you guys done to remove them?
A 3/8 drive ratchet does it for me. :armsup:
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 12:54 pm
Location: Benalla, Vic

Post by jhsuzi »

Yeah same for me, a 3/8 drive. Make sure you use a good quality one though, they seem to be more square. I used a cheapy and nearly stripped it and made the square hole round :oops:
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Location: Brisbane

Post by mick85 »

and this 3/8 drive bit will fit to a sidchrome set? if so ill get one tomorrow! as they have the same plugs in both diffs if i ever need to change oils
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Post by 11_evl »

there is 3 common size ratchets in scoket sets....
a 1/4",, which is the smallest.
a 1/2"which is the biggest and
a 3/8" which is in between the two.
that middle size ratchet is the right size(with NO attachments) to fit straight onto the drain plug
michael
User avatar
Dee
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Post by Dee »

I simply bought a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. This saved my buying whole other ratchet without any sockets to use on it, as I already have 1/4" set & 1/2" set. Didnt cost much...
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Location: Darwin N.T

Post by MUD-PIGSIERRA »

Ive been looking at getting the rebuild kit to get the seals and bearings done mainly I all ready have the S3 gears, though I would like to remove the detent ball as well for when i get twin stick.... $79 is a awesome price did anyone that has got this kit take not of the bearings brand when putting them in...? Does this mean that companies and parts suppliers in Aus might lift their game and offer some competition...... :?
..wrench, wheel, wreck repeat..

check out the action @ http://www.darwin4x4.net
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Post by mick85 »

im having trouble removing the front and rear tailshafts from the case itself, i have removed the 4 bolts at either end for each shaft tho each of them still seem to be attached??? are they meant to be? i assumed they would just fall away once the bolts were removed but they arent

do i have to remove the 4 which lead to the shaft to the gearbox? or will the whole assembly slide out?

i mite have to go buy a gregorys book grr - the whole thing can wobble around while i raise it with the jack but not sure about these other problems?? :roll:

and with the 3/8 adaptor there is no actual socket you bought? were you just using the extension bar to remove the plug? been out today no one has the right size socket and ive been to a few places
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