moving diff forward

[mrRocky]

presently running 33 simex's and as much loft as i want is moving the diff forward as easy as redrilling the hole that the springs locate on, and if so how much 10mm - 40mm i seem to be getting conflicting info in regards to this matter
clarification needed please it only rubs going down steep slopes over rocks ect..

[christover1]

I can't recommend it cause its not legal on road....
But I did it to mine, for off road use only of course
I picked 22mm because that was exactly half way between hole and edge of metal, thus in my mind the strongest place.
Also at this amount there was no need to remount shox, I just spaced them a tad at the bottom
Others weld up the hole and redrill I,m told.

http://winter2006.4wheelingoz.com/wi06H ... daFROG.htm

[Gwagensteve]

I think I did 30mm - I have nearly as much as RUF.

My 34 swampers clear my firewall with 2" BL and no hammering.

Steering is fine. careful though with shock clearance if you are running bumpstop spacers. I have 2" spacers and my very small bore commodore shocks have been murdered by the spacer.

Steve.

[Kitika]

I did mine about 30mm aswell and the shockies just hit the bumpstop so i had to space them back abit with washers and all was good The steering linkages rub alittle bit on each other but nuthing dangerous i dont think...

[Gwagensteve]

I would agree - can't see any long term problem with the steering.

Steve.

[mrRocky]

sounds too easy, will attempt this w/end cheers guys

[suzuki boy]

It does sound too easy!

How long does it take?

Might give it a go my self!

[Kitika]

It doesnt take long at all! About 1 1/2 hours it took me and a mate to figuire out what we were doing and drill and bolt it all up together. Altho make sure you've got some new(or newish) u-bolts cos mine were completly shagged once we got em off and had to wait a week to get new ones. Best thing is if you dont like it easy to be reversed back to standard Buying or making up a driveshaft spacer is probably advised too

[mrRocky]

is driveshaft spacer deemed neccesary or can i get away without?
already have 2" springs and shackles

[christover1]

is driveshaft spacer deemed neccesary or can i get away without?
already have 2" springs and shackles

My front shaft never fell out after years of abuse, but it did flog out the splines faster (less contact area and more leverage I guess ?)
It did fit a 10mm spacer later and that helped reduce spline wear...
and after moving transfer case back I fitted another 10mm to be sure.

christover

[Kitika]

I made 25mm thick one for about $15 of alluminium but i have access to a lathe and drill press The only reason i put one in is cos i read an article that christover had written So i'd take his advice on the matter

[jamespbeasley]

I'm considering doing a half ruf with OME rears and putting CJ5 springs in the rear (thus moving the rear diff back a bit as well)
I would like to know from people who have done similar things without a driveshaft spacer - how have your experiences been?
I read Steve's write up on RUF's and he said that you don't need a longer driveshaft (didn't mention spacer) - but what about for the rear?
How far can i move it back without doing driveshaft work? Is it worth moving it back up to 50mm? I imagine it would rub on the filler pipe, but what else would i need to modify in the rear guards? Would it be better to redrill the rear perch so that it brings the rear diff back to stock?
Is there anything else i haven't thought about?
Do i sound like enough of a dumbass yet?

[built4thrashing]

if you moved the rear back that far you would have clearance issues with the petrol tank and rear wheel arch.

What do you mean by HALF RUF ?

i have ruf and i did it without any chasis extensions or stupidly long shackles.

I re-drilled the rear mounts back 30mm and with the 30mm longer shackles it all fits nicely with good shackle angle. just this alone left the diff in its original position and if you redrill the mounts you can move it forward up to 30mm without any touching. Raising shock mounts increases travel more.

You will need to get longer brake lines if you go for RUF

[jamespbeasley]

cheers B4T - that's what i meant by half ruf, redrill the rear mounts

maybe thats what i should do on the rear too?

thing is i have the CJ5 springs at home - so i either use them or sell them

[zookimal]

25mm plus or minus a few is about as far as I could go back before the standard fuel tank came into play. I experimented and drilled the perches and moved the rear back about 25mm like this.

No issues as yet. Running a spacer on the rear shaft though. You may just get away without it but it's pushing the friendship on the rear slip joint without it I think. Others will know better than me, or those with flexy cars. I ran mine without it for about a week, but decided to add one. I think the slip joint in the front shaft is longer than the rear. Have never checked that though. No issue with filler hose on 31s on 7s. Filler hose guard removed. Not sure on guard/body clearance towards the rear of the arch as I am virtual lifted, but no body lift.

Hope this helps.

[moose]

i moved my diff forward nearly 35 mm !!
(but i had the main leaf redrilled {mazda leaves} so the centre pin hole was all wrong anyway !!)
also have SR , so my tailshaft used to fall out all the time , fixed by fitting a shortened hilux shaft !!

also moved rear back about 25-30mm as well , same way , redrilled main leaf !!
no rear tailshaft dramas in over 3years !!

[vicelore]

mine was around 20 mil..