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MQ and GQ steering
Thanks mate.RMP&O wrote:That is a damn nice Patrol you have Wicked.
Any probs with the high steer arm loosening up on you? I like you front diff guard except you have no guard covering the lower part of the pumpkin. I always seem to hit the lower part of the pumpkin.
How does the shackle reversal work? Keep bump steer down?
Your tie rod looks buff!
That a stock MQ/MK steering box?
nope.
LOL there is a piece of flat bar from the bar to the bottom 2 bolt holes, so yer it does well!
S/r great! Bump steer?
Yer its chromoly
Stock box but its been work/bored for bigger pressure.
and the cable is to a 9000 warn winch so i can pull the nose down on hill climbs and try and level out on side slops
Buds Customs : Street, Track & Trail - Parts & Fabrication - Nissan, Toyota, Custom D60 gear
http://www.facebook.com/budscustoms
http://www.facebook.com/budscustoms
nice man nice...always loved your P-troll...it rocks!
Now that I can picture the bar for the diff skid I am more keen on it. Been trying to decide the best way to do a front diff skid and this sounds sweet. Hope you don't mind if I copy it!
how the warn line work for hills and side slopes? Keep it more stable in these situations? I know buggies using them but yours is the first I seen on a regular truck.
Now that I can picture the bar for the diff skid I am more keen on it. Been trying to decide the best way to do a front diff skid and this sounds sweet. Hope you don't mind if I copy it!
how the warn line work for hills and side slopes? Keep it more stable in these situations? I know buggies using them but yours is the first I seen on a regular truck.
www.rmp-o.com
If you want more in depth pics let me know of what and i'll e-mail them to ya dude (will need ya email)RMP&O wrote:nice man nice...always loved your P-troll...it rocks!
Now that I can picture the bar for the diff skid I am more keen on it. Been trying to decide the best way to do a front diff skid and this sounds sweet. Hope you don't mind if I copy it!
how the warn line work for hills and side slopes? Keep it more stable in these situations? I know buggies using them but yours is the first I seen on a regular truck.
as for the winch well if i'm doin a hill climb and the winch is in the front could bounce around to much and put me of line or lift to much in an effort to prevent endo's. Side slops it's connected to the passanger side of the chassis so if thats the high side i just winch in and it will level the car out a little. Rear 4 link has the same but mounted in the centre.
Buds Customs : Street, Track & Trail - Parts & Fabrication - Nissan, Toyota, Custom D60 gear
http://www.facebook.com/budscustoms
http://www.facebook.com/budscustoms
Ok, so say If i still have my C200 Diff in the front of my MK and wanna convert to a single drag link from the box to the knuckle and piss off the idler arm and relay and crap, all I need is a drag link with the same length and with ends that'll suit the tapers on the knuckle and steering arm?
How does this go down engineering wise? Need a blue plate or does superior engineering or similar do up an arm that'll go in? Just wanna get pointed in the right direction quickly...Gotta make room asap!
How does this go down engineering wise? Need a blue plate or does superior engineering or similar do up an arm that'll go in? Just wanna get pointed in the right direction quickly...Gotta make room asap!
MK Patrol SWB, Lift, lockers, ATZs or Simex ETs, winch and custom bar, Snorkel, daily, abused.
Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
Looks like this could be a small mission.
MK Patrol SWB, Lift, lockers, ATZs or Simex ETs, winch and custom bar, Snorkel, daily, abused.
i think a reverse taper using cruiser taper can be done. mob on yak ebay sells the reamer cheapdattopimp wrote:Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
cheers
Yep the tierod and pitman have the same taper. That was my plan to use the tierod as my new drag link, just cut the RH thread size down and retap it. However it looks as though the Pitman balljoint will bind on full flex, and seeing i want more flex, this isn't gonna work. Was advised to go a GU adjustable drag link and just the the pitman sleeved and re tapered to be on the underside. BUT THEN, I duno, lookin at the pics hoppy put up it looks as though the tierod and draglink will hit.
Will look into it more after tube bar i think.
Will look into it more after tube bar i think.
MK Patrol SWB, Lift, lockers, ATZs or Simex ETs, winch and custom bar, Snorkel, daily, abused.
Well this thread has a few different idea's going on here, firstly everyone agrees that the MQ pitman arm is a different taper than a GQ
I then read that MQ knuckles fit GQ, same tierod taper.dattopimp wrote:Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
I then read that MQ tie rods are the same taper as the MQ piman armWICKED wrote:MQ knuckles bolt straight on to GQ housing, same tapper and thread on the tierod ends so they'll fit fine.
So if the MQ tierods are the same taper as the MQ pitman arm and the MQ tierods are the same taper as the GQ tierods (cause the 2nd quote says so) then why is it so hard to get a tierod to fit the MQ pitman arm ??.dattopimp wrote:Yep the tierod and pitman have the same taper.
Ok then, I pulled all the steering of the spare MQ and bought a new Tie rodend to check the taper against the pitman arm and where the drag link fits the tie rod, and they match.
So my plan is to put new tie rods ends on the original tie rod, then use the 2nd tie rod off the spare MQ and put a new right hand tierod end on one end, then get the rod cut to down, threaded and put another right hand tierod on that end too and use it as the draglink and run it from the pitman arm to the tierod. then stick a steering dampner on and all should be sweet
I will post pics when it's done
Hoppy
So my plan is to put new tie rods ends on the original tie rod, then use the 2nd tie rod off the spare MQ and put a new right hand tierod end on one end, then get the rod cut to down, threaded and put another right hand tierod on that end too and use it as the draglink and run it from the pitman arm to the tierod. then stick a steering dampner on and all should be sweet
I will post pics when it's done
Hoppy
Apparently the GQ's run 2 diff tapers. The earlier leaf spring still have a relay arm. Which is poo. The later ones with a single piece drag link use the different taper. Thats according to Peddars and i'm pretty sure i heard it else where. Thinking i should just cut the RH thread side off my spare tierod, cut a new thread and be done with it. I still think the tierod will bind up abit though, unless it goes underneath the pitman, and then, if i do that, i'm thinking the tierod will hit the draglink on rh upward flex. Oh and you need to find someone who has the taper cuter to do it properly.Well this thread has a few different idea's going on here, firstly everyone agrees that the MQ pitman arm is a different taper than a GQ
dattopimp wrote:
Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
I then read that MQ knuckles fit GQ, same tierod taper.
WICKED wrote:
MQ knuckles bolt straight on to GQ housing, same tapper and thread on the tierod ends so they'll fit fine.
I then read that MQ tie rods are the same taper as the MQ piman arm
dattopimp wrote:
Yep the tierod and pitman have the same taper.
So if the MQ tierods are the same taper as the MQ pitman arm and the MQ tierods are the same taper as the GQ tierods (cause the 2nd quote says so) then why is it so hard to get a tierod to fit the MQ pitman arm ??.
MK Patrol SWB, Lift, lockers, ATZs or Simex ETs, winch and custom bar, Snorkel, daily, abused.
Remember though that the draglink originally goes in the top of the pitman arm (like a GU) and the tierod ends go in from underneath, the opposite to the pic that I posted, so they should clear each other.dattopimp wrote: lookin at the pics hoppy put up it looks as though the tierod and draglink will hit.
I have 4 new tierod ends, the engineering guy's are shortening down my spare MQ tierod and rethreading the righthand thread to be my new draglink and the new steering dampner bracket is waiting, so as soon as the draglink is done i will be ditching the MQ/MK steering junk for a single draglink, pics when i'm done
Hoppy
I have a 3 inch spring and 2 inch body.dattopimp wrote:how much lift/what sus setup are you runnin hoppy? Cause i was thinking of the underslung setup, but then isn't it too close the the tie rod? and on rh upward flex it'd hit
I got the shortened MQ tie rod back today, I put the steering dampner bracket on, so it's all ready to go, I will let you know how it goes when it's all in.
Hoppy
God that looks sexy. I think I'll end up going this way, just wanna make sure the draglink won't hit the tie rod on flex Thinkin of chuckin longer shackles in too so that may help abit. See how we go. How much did the shorten and re thread cost you? couldn't imagine it'd be much?
MK Patrol SWB, Lift, lockers, ATZs or Simex ETs, winch and custom bar, Snorkel, daily, abused.
Fitted the new draglink today, couldn't fit the new tie rods, cause i'm still waiting on a tierod to arrive, it feels much better, with the old relay arm setup it was possible to grab the tie rod and give it a twist, cause of the nature of the setup with the 2 draglinks and relay arm, with this set up it is all alot stiffer, now the slight steering wobble i would get with the 35's has gone all together, result!!! and nothing hits
Hoppy
Hoppy
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