Hey guys, did a quick search but didnt jump out at me.
basically, in light of jemmybubbles bad fortune again it reminded me.
I am looking to put an immoboliser on my 80 series diesel cruiser.
any tips for fitting to stop a diesel starting??
do you fit to fuel shut solenoid or where??
and any specifications to look for when purchasing to ensure its a goer.
Cheers.
DRS
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Immoboliser on a diesel
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Immoboliser on a diesel
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Usually cut the starter motor, the risk with immobilising the fuel pump
is that if the immobiliser plays up while your driving, you stop!!
Mayby hide a kill switch to the fuel pump, as a switch will have far less chance to die.
I put a Mongoose MX400 in mine, cost about $100 and does the job, also with central locking makes it keyless entry
plus if i wanna buy a siren for it, it will turn it into an alarm.
Pep
is that if the immobiliser plays up while your driving, you stop!!
Mayby hide a kill switch to the fuel pump, as a switch will have far less chance to die.
I put a Mongoose MX400 in mine, cost about $100 and does the job, also with central locking makes it keyless entry
plus if i wanna buy a siren for it, it will turn it into an alarm.
Pep
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dont bother with the starter motor then.
can you get a hold of a wiring diagram?
does the 80 have and electric fuel pump or mechanical??
i use a mongoose mx80 in my GU and it works fine. its a tripple imobiliser alarm.
can you get a hold of a wiring diagram?
does the 80 have and electric fuel pump or mechanical??
i use a mongoose mx80 in my GU and it works fine. its a tripple imobiliser alarm.
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hey mate
i have a 75 series 1hz and i just tapped a switch into the fuel pump which is hidden in plain sight as something else, i also wired it to a slap stop switch for emergency cut out in comps.
the advantage of this is that if someone tries to steal the car then it will crank but not start and they will assume your car is a pos that won't start.
i have a 75 series 1hz and i just tapped a switch into the fuel pump which is hidden in plain sight as something else, i also wired it to a slap stop switch for emergency cut out in comps.
the advantage of this is that if someone tries to steal the car then it will crank but not start and they will assume your car is a pos that won't start.
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Having the kill switch so that it turns over is a good thing as it allows time for you (or someone else ) to hear it and do something. I've wiring a kill switch into the coil supply on mine with a hidden switch. As it is a custum dash it had to be hidden but with a factory dash I'd use another supplus switch as then it is hidden in plain sight.
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was thinking of doing this to the maverick, was considering using the wire to the fuel stop solenoid, but thaught it would be pretty easy to bypass... cant thing of anything better though as there is no electric fuel pump,
was also thinking could disable one of the glow relays, so if the solenoid was bypassed it still wouldn't glow...
any other ideas?
was also thinking could disable one of the glow relays, so if the solenoid was bypassed it still wouldn't glow...
any other ideas?
Thrashed '90 Leaf spring Maverick ute, TD42, 2" EFS lift. 36 Swampers.
Diesel's still start without glowing90Mav wrote:was thinking of doing this to the maverick, was considering using the wire to the fuel stop solenoid, but thaught it would be pretty easy to bypass... cant thing of anything better though as there is no electric fuel pump,
was also thinking could disable one of the glow relays, so if the solenoid was bypassed it still wouldn't glow...
any other ideas?
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Struts that come down from all four corners and lifts the wheels off the ground.
Or a controlled clutch type thing that disables the drive shaft/transfer case/gear box (disconnects it.),
They could start it but couldn’t move it.
Something that disconnects your clutch cable or accelerator.
Take your gear leaver with you when you leave the car. That would piss them off and you would have a handy weapon.
Or a controlled clutch type thing that disables the drive shaft/transfer case/gear box (disconnects it.),
They could start it but couldn’t move it.
Something that disconnects your clutch cable or accelerator.
Take your gear leaver with you when you leave the car. That would piss them off and you would have a handy weapon.
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when i was in europe this guy had a big pin (with a key) that went in through the centre console under the gear shifter. Unless you removed it, no matter what gear you were in you could only go in reverse.
useless bit of info but a pretty cool little gizmo.
my mate has an starter button on his kombi. He leaves his keys in it...atleast then he know they wont bugger his ignition trying to start it.
i've got my glow plugs on a miscellaneous switch on the dash.
useless bit of info but a pretty cool little gizmo.
my mate has an starter button on his kombi. He leaves his keys in it...atleast then he know they wont bugger his ignition trying to start it.
i've got my glow plugs on a miscellaneous switch on the dash.
At first I thought it was a sea anemone, upon closer inspection I realised it was a funky ball of tits from outer space.
Mine cuts out the starter, thats about all you can do on a diesel. i mean yeah you could roll start the old girl with everything else being mechanical but hopefully it keeps them away from her cause the car next door might be easier to nick
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an actual ball tap in the fuel line. put it close to the engine just under the firewall. the car will start fine, run for a few metres and stop, enough time for you to wake up and beat the shit out of them. or they will think the car is buggered and make the battery go flat trying to start it again.
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
just a switch on either the edic/fuel shutoff solenoid
or on the oil pressure sender. If fitted to the oil pressure sender, the engine will run for 10 seconds, then stop, they start it, same thing again. Enough time for them to throw it in gear, get 30m up the road, stop, after about 5-10 starts battery will be flat.
Perhaps even both, but, if they have enough time to find the wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid/edic, they probably have the smarts to just tow it up the road, and work on it there.
or on the oil pressure sender. If fitted to the oil pressure sender, the engine will run for 10 seconds, then stop, they start it, same thing again. Enough time for them to throw it in gear, get 30m up the road, stop, after about 5-10 starts battery will be flat.
Perhaps even both, but, if they have enough time to find the wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid/edic, they probably have the smarts to just tow it up the road, and work on it there.
cutting the starter motor with switch is overcome by touching a screw driver on the big starter motor active, and shorting it to the solenoid wire on the starter, both about 2cm away from eachother.
cutting the glow plugs with a switch is overcome by connecting one end of a jumper lead to the battery and the other end to the glow plug terminal on the engine, they're all linked and this will glow them all manually
cutting the stock fuel shut off solenoid with a switch is overcome by (old school diesel) disconnecting the rod by cutting it with bolt cutters or just pulling the circlip out and jamming it open... newer diesels, simply find the wire that is meant to be powered and power it with a jumper lead
and no, i dont steal cars, i am not trying to tell people how to steal cars, im trying to tell you how easy some of your devices are to get around, and not to trust them.
i have been trying to think of a fail safe way to imobilise my diesel engine too and i cant.
carby petrols are very easy as well, a simple 2 wires to re-wire the dizzy and your away! fuel injection is another story, all it takes is a switched circuit in one or more of the trigger sensors or ignitors and its near impossible to start, but there are other ways of stealing a car than driving it away
cutting the glow plugs with a switch is overcome by connecting one end of a jumper lead to the battery and the other end to the glow plug terminal on the engine, they're all linked and this will glow them all manually
cutting the stock fuel shut off solenoid with a switch is overcome by (old school diesel) disconnecting the rod by cutting it with bolt cutters or just pulling the circlip out and jamming it open... newer diesels, simply find the wire that is meant to be powered and power it with a jumper lead
and no, i dont steal cars, i am not trying to tell people how to steal cars, im trying to tell you how easy some of your devices are to get around, and not to trust them.
i have been trying to think of a fail safe way to imobilise my diesel engine too and i cant.
carby petrols are very easy as well, a simple 2 wires to re-wire the dizzy and your away! fuel injection is another story, all it takes is a switched circuit in one or more of the trigger sensors or ignitors and its near impossible to start, but there are other ways of stealing a car than driving it away
Silly ideas:
Cut igniton 'on' wires at the connector plug on igniton barrel, and move them to another switch on the other side of the dash, or down in the middle console to either another key switch or just a toggle switch. Can leave accessories on ignition.
If theif rips apart dash and attempts to short out ignition 'on' wires at the barrel, and discovers they aren't there, time is ticking away and he would (maybe) then give up and get out of there.
Connect a 'scheecher' 150db siren alarm (Dick Smith Electronics/Jaycar) to your interior light wiring (if you have a working interior light), connected to a toggle switch outside of the vehicle (under the tray for utes, under front wheel arch for wagons). Theory is, open a door, interior light comes on, and gets a blast of 150db of scheeching noise, and thief wouldnt stick around for very long. Wouldnt work on deaf theives... And you'd have to remember to turn it on/turn it off yourself. Or connect it up to your remote alarm via another relay if you happen to have such a remote alarm.
Petrols: Run some electric fence tape underneath the car seat covers (if car seat covers are cotton/wool). Connect to high tension side of your coil.
They hit the go button and they get a mighty wake-up call.
Do a Mr Bean, and take the steering wheel with you.
If got an aircompressor laying around, use a tyre deflator on one of your tyres. Theives would be fairly desperate to have a crack at a vehicle with a flat tyre. Would you even consider having a crack at a vehicle with a flat front 35" or 37" tyre? Not a real flash of an idea if you have to re-inflate a tyre every afternoon at 7pm after you've just knocked off from work.
Move from the city to a nice country town...
Cut igniton 'on' wires at the connector plug on igniton barrel, and move them to another switch on the other side of the dash, or down in the middle console to either another key switch or just a toggle switch. Can leave accessories on ignition.
If theif rips apart dash and attempts to short out ignition 'on' wires at the barrel, and discovers they aren't there, time is ticking away and he would (maybe) then give up and get out of there.
Connect a 'scheecher' 150db siren alarm (Dick Smith Electronics/Jaycar) to your interior light wiring (if you have a working interior light), connected to a toggle switch outside of the vehicle (under the tray for utes, under front wheel arch for wagons). Theory is, open a door, interior light comes on, and gets a blast of 150db of scheeching noise, and thief wouldnt stick around for very long. Wouldnt work on deaf theives... And you'd have to remember to turn it on/turn it off yourself. Or connect it up to your remote alarm via another relay if you happen to have such a remote alarm.
Petrols: Run some electric fence tape underneath the car seat covers (if car seat covers are cotton/wool). Connect to high tension side of your coil.
They hit the go button and they get a mighty wake-up call.
Do a Mr Bean, and take the steering wheel with you.
If got an aircompressor laying around, use a tyre deflator on one of your tyres. Theives would be fairly desperate to have a crack at a vehicle with a flat tyre. Would you even consider having a crack at a vehicle with a flat front 35" or 37" tyre? Not a real flash of an idea if you have to re-inflate a tyre every afternoon at 7pm after you've just knocked off from work.
Move from the city to a nice country town...
Bushies: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5560/ http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5561/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
re-route your fuel lines so that they are close enuf to the cab that you can put a tap in it thats accesible from somewhere in the cab... if its not in a blatantly obvious spot they are just gunna think ya outa fuel.
could just stick the tap in the existing fuel ines to, if ya feel like gettin under the truck all the time
could just stick the tap in the existing fuel ines to, if ya feel like gettin under the truck all the time
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