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1GGZE
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
1GGZE
anyone know much about these motors?
would I be able to use my stock 22R engine mounts to mount this up to my bundy?
would it mate upto a G52?
dont know much about engine conversions, so if you have any useful info, it would be great..
just toying with ideas - either a stock 22R, or one of these (depending on how hard/do-able everything is)..
would I be able to use my stock 22R engine mounts to mount this up to my bundy?
would it mate upto a G52?
dont know much about engine conversions, so if you have any useful info, it would be great..
just toying with ideas - either a stock 22R, or one of these (depending on how hard/do-able everything is)..
what's up with your existing 22R?
isn't the 1G-GZE only 2 litre? don't think they'd have a lot ot ovver over the old 22R?
1G-GZE 122kW @ 6000 rpm 226 Nm @ 3600 rpm
22R 75kW @ 4800 rpm 185 Nm @ 2800 rpm
so the 22R doesn't look all that impressive but I'd bet it has better torque through the lower rpm range. would move the truck faster on the road but off road it would suck. the 3M/5M 6 cylinder engines are close to bolt in, with engine mounts and bellhousing bloting up, if you get a carbed one no efi hassles either. or if you're feeling cashed up get a newer turbo 5M, that'd wake it up.
isn't the 1G-GZE only 2 litre? don't think they'd have a lot ot ovver over the old 22R?
1G-GZE 122kW @ 6000 rpm 226 Nm @ 3600 rpm
22R 75kW @ 4800 rpm 185 Nm @ 2800 rpm
so the 22R doesn't look all that impressive but I'd bet it has better torque through the lower rpm range. would move the truck faster on the road but off road it would suck. the 3M/5M 6 cylinder engines are close to bolt in, with engine mounts and bellhousing bloting up, if you get a carbed one no efi hassles either. or if you're feeling cashed up get a newer turbo 5M, that'd wake it up.
1985-1986 5M-GE W58 2,759cc 8.8:1 161@5200 rpm 169@4400 rpm
1988-1992 7M-GE W58 2,954cc 9.2:1 200@6000 rpm 188@3600 rpm
if I were to go one of these, I would choose the 7MGE.. about the same torque figre as the 22R, but more hp..
what would be the price of one of these? how do I find out if it will bolt up to my existing engine mounts?
1988-1992 7M-GE W58 2,954cc 9.2:1 200@6000 rpm 188@3600 rpm
if I were to go one of these, I would choose the 7MGE.. about the same torque figre as the 22R, but more hp..
what would be the price of one of these? how do I find out if it will bolt up to my existing engine mounts?
dude are those figures kW/Nm, or hp/ft-lbs? seriously doubt even the 5M having less torque than the 22R.
22RE is the bundy is the easiest EFI swap you can do but you have to ask yourself is it worth it, the gains are minimal and there is pain in wiring, have to do body lift so plenum clears clutch master cyl, etc etc.
if all you want is a bundy that goes faster, trade the whole truck up to a V6 prado, engine conversions are endless money pits, can be a lot of fun if you're really into that sort of stuff but you have to decide you can live without the car for months and you have to be prepared to pay and pay and pay even if you're doing it yourself.
22RE is the bundy is the easiest EFI swap you can do but you have to ask yourself is it worth it, the gains are minimal and there is pain in wiring, have to do body lift so plenum clears clutch master cyl, etc etc.
if all you want is a bundy that goes faster, trade the whole truck up to a V6 prado, engine conversions are endless money pits, can be a lot of fun if you're really into that sort of stuff but you have to decide you can live without the car for months and you have to be prepared to pay and pay and pay even if you're doing it yourself.
Robbie i think you have to ask yourself how much money you are willing to spend to begin with. Add up every cost imaginable for the conversion, then add another 10% or so for unexpected things. For example I didnt expect my 1JZ to foul the front Universal Joint, but it did and I had to make up a custom aluminium lower sump section. Luckily for me I have access to aluminium fabrication, and it didnt cost to fix. Then again if BUNDERA got the 1GGTE to go in easy I dont think you would have too many problems.
robbie wrote:I think it will be better for me to go a stock 22R with transfer gears.. that will give me a bit more torque (what I really want)..
After only 3 replies!
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=5402
Errrrr ... hasn't this been gone through before?
Errrrr ... hasn't this been gone through before?
KRiS
Ok, here we go. 1GGZE are a TOUGH basterd of a motor (same as 1GGTE!). Get the later version. 127KW and 255nm, but the bulk of the torque is available between 1500-4000rpm. Ive driven a few cars with this motor in, namely a mates RA23 Celica, with water to air intercooler, 4.3 Hilux diff with detroit locker, etc etc. the bottom end performance of these motors is AWSOME!! Read:- 3rd gear line locker at 2700rpm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Supercharger runs about 8psi std, but intercooled (they arent from the factory), with larger crank pulley for more boost (14psi is the go!) and a switch to engage and disengage the electro magnetic clutch on the charger, there is just over 140kw @ wheels to be had, with stoopid amounts of low end torque from a "measly" 2 litre motor.
Compression ratio is 8.0:1, have crank angle sensor, with 3 double ended coilpacks firing in waste spark. Comp. ratio is on the relatively low side due to it not being intercooled from the factory. Weighs approx. 170kg with power steer pump, but no air con. Never came i manual form, but a W55,W57 or W58 (and G52) with the 1G bellhousing will bolt up to it. Can either use a 3TGTE flywheel and clutch (9" clutch face), 1GGE (9" clutch face), or the 1GGTE clutch (9.5" clutch face).
Thats all i can think of at the moment....
Phill
Compression ratio is 8.0:1, have crank angle sensor, with 3 double ended coilpacks firing in waste spark. Comp. ratio is on the relatively low side due to it not being intercooled from the factory. Weighs approx. 170kg with power steer pump, but no air con. Never came i manual form, but a W55,W57 or W58 (and G52) with the 1G bellhousing will bolt up to it. Can either use a 3TGTE flywheel and clutch (9" clutch face), 1GGE (9" clutch face), or the 1GGTE clutch (9.5" clutch face).
Thats all i can think of at the moment....
Phill
Phill
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
The install would be very similar, EXCEPT that the clutch on the charger sits further forword than the crank pulley, ad USUALLY fouls up alot of radiators. Nothing you cant fix with a hammer and a grinder tho
Phill
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
dude making engine mounts is about the easiest bit of an engine conversion especially when you have a big fat chassis to weld to, and even if you have to pay someone else to do it there's only a few hundred dollars in it, if you do it yourself all you need is a 4" angle grinder, a drill, and a stick welder and some patience.
plumbing, wiring, body clearancing, all more difficult than engine mounts.
plumbing, wiring, body clearancing, all more difficult than engine mounts.
The 1GG is a very nice looking motor. The head was designed by Yamaha for Toyota (so I am told) and has MASSIVE ports which sit high and have a great angle into the head. The bottom end is square and very well made from the factory. Small pistons and long rods this motor should be able to rev real hard and produce a heap of power.
Spoke to a guy who was putting one in a race car. He was boasting 10,000 rpm as a bacically stock (internally) motor before his ECU reached it's limit. I didn't see the car, he was just telling the story in the pits at Winton. He did have quite a bit of detail, and from looking internally at the motor it could be possible, but in a 4WD not much use.
I have one in parts and one as a long motor which are both free to good home if someone is interested in them? Not sure if they are worth the effort in a 4WD capacity, but if you want to run a under 2L race car should be good.
Spoke to a guy who was putting one in a race car. He was boasting 10,000 rpm as a bacically stock (internally) motor before his ECU reached it's limit. I didn't see the car, he was just telling the story in the pits at Winton. He did have quite a bit of detail, and from looking internally at the motor it could be possible, but in a 4WD not much use.
I have one in parts and one as a long motor which are both free to good home if someone is interested in them? Not sure if they are worth the effort in a 4WD capacity, but if you want to run a under 2L race car should be good.
Dave L wrote:I have one in parts and one as a long motor which are both free to good home if someone is interested in them? Not sure if they are worth the effort in a 4WD capacity, but if you want to run a under 2L race car should be good.
I will take them both if you dont mind?
I can organise freight etc.. ?
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