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Just did a 2" body lift, now stuck in 2WD! :cry:

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

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Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:05 pm
Location: Hell

Just did a 2" body lift, now stuck in 2WD! :cry:

Post by Dave Hazard »

Just intsalled the 2" body blocks I got from just cruizin (thanks mate :cool: ) on my Vitara but now my transfer stick is stuck in 2WD any ideas? Please dont tell me i have to take the blocks back out!?!
Any help appreciated
Cheers, Dave
Posts: 1325
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:13 pm
Location: brisbane australia..logan reserve

Post by 11_evl »

try removing the shifter boot and make sure its enguaging properly, might have to bend shifter a bit to clear body and rubber boot
hope that helps
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:05 pm
Location: Hell

Post by Dave Hazard »

hehe yeah thanks mate, just pulled the boot out a bit, and shift hes moved to the left slightly so just need to push the stick to left a bit :)
Now its says "4WD" when in 2WD and and vice versa lol but i dont really care, its just a bit of fun!
Pics and write up to come :lol:
Posts: 1889
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 10:23 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by just cruizin' »

Just saw this and after reading it I'm a bit relieved, I thought for a moment I may have over looked something.
Posts: 102
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

Post by rodw »

Dave,

Glad you got it sorted.

This link is where Just Cruizin's body lift for the Vitara was born:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=112847

You can see in one of my photos, one option is turn over the t-case lever boot, but I ended up puttting the boot back the right way after bending the stick a bit as it was hitting the floor pan on the left side. I left the console out until I gave it a good run off road as I was concerned the body boot would pull it back out of low range. All is good!

You just reminded me that I still have to put the console back in!
RodW
2007 SR Diesel Dual cab
Posts: 1889
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 10:23 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by just cruizin' »

Hey Rod,

What process did you use to bend the lever?

Greg
Posts: 102
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

Post by rodw »

Just stuck it in a vice and used a BFH, for those who don't know B = Big, H = Hammer, F = you work it out....
RodW
2007 SR Diesel Dual cab
Posts: 1889
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 10:23 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by just cruizin' »

That's geat tech :D How much did you have to go.
Posts: 102
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

Post by rodw »

Only a couple of mm, so it was not too hard. Problem is that the stick has two bits. A solid stub attached to the linkage. Then the stick into the cab is a tube crimped onto the stub. You need to bend the stub. Just be careful you don't damage the rubber boot...

Need to be careful as I found the lever worked fine without the motor running in the driveway, then i took it for a test drive and could not get into Lo until I stopped and turned the engine off! That's when I reached for the BFH!

I got the 4 speed auto, not sure that was a factor or not.
RodW
2007 SR Diesel Dual cab
Posts: 121
Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 10:17 pm
Location: Riverton

Post by rosie »

Hey guys, was there anything else you needed to do with the body lift other then the leavers?

I have 1" and am thinking of going the 2" kit but not 100% on whats involved.

Thanks, Ben
Donning the Zook called Tara
Posts: 102
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

Post by rodw »

Have a look at the thread of mine which I gave a link to above. In the last half there are some photos.
1. Move the LHS brake line down. See my Pic.
2. Steering shaft just made it with no mods for me
3. If you have the 1.6 EFI motor, you need a 25mm spacer for the aluminium air inlet. See my Pic.
4. Might need to consider extending one short brake line on the RHS that goes down onto the chassis rail. I have not done that yet and it seems OK, but not much give in it. You will need to disconnect this line before you can jack it up enough to get eh blocks in.
5. Block off the gap at top of radiator to stop overheating. See my Pic.
6. I also extended mud flaps on the inside of the front guards and put a rubber cover over the top of the strut tower, to try and keep muck out of the engine bay. Se my pics.
RodW
2007 SR Diesel Dual cab
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:05 pm
Location: Hell

Post by Dave Hazard »

Yeah I have the 1.6 carby with a 3spd Auto. Havnt done any driving yet (except round the block) i'll see how I go with the transfer shifter and if I have any dramas i'll then reach for the BFH, but I think its guna be OK :D
Posts: 1889
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 10:23 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by just cruizin' »

Hey Dave,

Could you take a couple of pics before and after so I canget an idea of how much angle is required. Also if it's still in the car a couple to show the problem itself.

Cheers
Greg
Posts: 1048
Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2004 9:48 am
Location: Waikerie; SA

Post by Eddy »

Put my lift in last week. (also from j c )

Absolutely no drama thus far with the transfer lever. (4 speed auto)

I did however have a hassle with the steering column.
I could not get it to link up.

Solution;

Disassembled the rag joint, and reassemble with washers under the spacer/lugs..
Voila!
Fixed.

Biggest part of the job for me was getting the bloody headlights out to get to the front body mounts.
'03 Mazda Bravo Plus
'80 Datto 720 Ute
'77 Leyland Terrier Truck ... yes a real truck
Posts: 102
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

Post by rodw »

MIne had no rag joint but used universal joints. There was enough adjustment on the spline at the gearbox end to make it join up.

I took out the washer bottle to get to the headlight.
RodW
2007 SR Diesel Dual cab
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