increasing power output of 1HD-T

[80's_delirious]

Hi guys,

seems to be some good knowledge and experience amongst you, as well as a good serving of performance nuts , so I thought I'd see what's been done to power up these donks.

I have 1990 80series with stock as rock 1HD-T engine and would like to up the power output. Would love to hear about what you have done to up the anti on these engines.
eg.
increased boost, how far have you wound up the boost?
aftermarket turbos?
intercoolers?
exhaust mods?
whats been good value for money in terms of making real difference?

While I would like more power, I dont want to sacrifice reliability(not too much anyway)

[known 2]

hey dude.

i read in a older 4wd monthly mag that by adding a intercooler and a better turbo 160kw is easely achievable. from stock 118kw.

ofcourse adding a 3i exhoust and maybe turning your fuel pump wil also be of benifet.

[mud4b]

yep i got the same model as you now (1990) and had a 92 also 97.

a 3" exhaust is a must from the turbo back, mine is dumped before the front of the rear diff, i find it makes more power down low but does lose revs in the top end of the rev range. my old one was the same and when i sold it i had to make the exhaust exit from the rear of the vehicle, i found after i welded the last part back on i had more revs (hence more pull) higher in the rev range with slightly higher revs also. please note this is illegal to have your exhaust dumped before the front of the rear diff. use 3" pipe and a std 3" 3 bolt flange to bolt strait up to the std turbo.

i also recently wound the fuel screw out for more fuel to run 15psi. no intercooler. i now run 14psi with the pump properly tuned.

i am in the process of building a new engine, complete rebuild engine with some some strengthening inside (more for reliability) a high mount turbo (researching this now) that still gets on boost low but has great low to mid(mid = middle of the rev range to mid top end, but not all top end) torque, external wastegate, water to air i/c, different inlet plenium and a few more little tricks..

just depends how far you want to go, but as said if your engine is in reasonable condition, go the 3" exhaust, (can buy them complete for around $600 not fitted these days) and up the boost to 10 to 12 psi and wind the fuel screw out slightly. next step is intercooler and up the boost and fuel even more.

i have been told (and do agree) that the factory ct20 turbo does not like running more than 15 psi (15 being max also) and still be realiable.

another thing to check even though it will not help performance before you up the boost is your bigend /main bearings.

cheers mark

[80's_delirious]

cheers for info guys.

mud4b, seems like your thinking along the same lines as me. What sort of output are you hoping for?

was thinking 3" exhaust is the go (is next on list when $$ allow)
does yours run on inside of chassis rail right through or same path as factory?
what are you running in the way of mufflers?

Ive started collecting parts for air/water i/c, am yet to find a suitable cooler at good price, was thinking of fabbing one from ebay sourced air/air core. reckon air/water i/c is the go for low speed work and can keep intake tract short and less bends for minimal lag. I also have a good set of thermo fans so I can ditch the engine fan (not sure how reliable thermos are on a fourbie in mud etc)
Am also thinking of fabbing a different inlet plenum with smoother intake runners to go with i/c, though not really sure how beneficial this is for a turbo diesel.

I have been very curious to know more about hi-mount turbo setup. seems to me it would provide much better exhaust gas flow for better mid-top end performance, though maybe effect low rpm boost/torque. Have I got this right?

Is ct20 the standard turbo on 1HD-T? mine has a re-co ct26 on it. Any one know the specs on these two turbos?
Mine makes useful boost too high up the rev range, its a slug until around 1950 rpm when boost comes on strong. Ive been told boost coming in so late is due to fuel pump timing/fueling not being correct, though am wondering if this due to mis-matched dturbo.
Im due for injector and pump sevice and will do timing belt and big end bearings at the same time

just depends how far you want to go

$$ and time is the limiting factors
I have eaton supercharger sitting in the shed. would love to put it in combination with a larger hi-mount turbo with air/water i/c and suitable exhaust and intake etc for boost and torque from idle right through the rev range



doesnt hurt to dream....




right, back to reality, dont really have the coin or the knowledge at the moment to take on such a big re-engineering task

[mud4b]

hi bud, mate sorry ill reply tomorrow about the rest but one thing you mentioned that i stuffed up on is the factory turbo... yes they are a ct-26 not a ct - 20... sorry. cheers mark

[Tapage]

Toyota keep the CT-26 in their diferent versions ( MR2/Supra ) specs as top secrets .. and are sigly diferents .. factu if you run a Supra turbo ( same looks of the !HD-T CT26 ) in your cruiser engine you found it produce no boost .. ( like 2 - 3 PSI )

At your point .. you get all info here .. 3" exhaust buddy ran it with no muffler but it's loud ( I'm not worried with it but I need to say ) out the frame to the front of rear tire.

The CT26 in the 1HD-T engine can produce 20 PSI easy .. ( course you are out of the Eficience island of the turbo .. ) get some gauges .. like pyro, boost and add a boost controler ..

Just run and tune your engine 12 PSI ( safe I would run up to 14 PSI without intercooler ) and keep safe your EGT under 1200F all the way ..

[Dzltec]

Its as simple as putting a better 3" system on it, bumping up boost and adding fuel. Fit an egt guage. They run 11psi as standard.

The highest figure I have seen from a 1hdt is around 125rwkw. You should easily be able to get 80-95 ish with the above setup.


Andy

[dow50r]

Exhaust, highflow the turbo with a t4 front wheel, Intercool, set up the pump to suit higher boost and 160kw plus is yours.
Just the front wheel and housing from a supra is 4mm larger than stock and bolts straight on, gives more boost lower in the band, but no more up high, 14 is a maximum with the stock ct26, you will loose blades from overspeed...

[dow50r]

http://www.yanmarmarine.com/products/up ... A-STZP.pdf

This is a modified hdt or hdft 232 kw, larger turbo, water to air intercooler, here is a good example of whats possible

[mud4b]

cheers for info guys.

mud4b, seems like your thinking along the same lines as me. What sort of output are you hoping for?

was thinking 3" exhaust is the go (is next on list when $$ allow)
does yours run on inside of chassis rail right through or same path as factory?
what are you running in the way of mufflers?

Ive started collecting parts for air/water i/c, am yet to find a suitable cooler at good price, was thinking of fabbing one from ebay sourced air/air core. reckon air/water i/c is the go for low speed work and can keep intake tract short and less bends for minimal lag. I also have a good set of thermo fans so I can ditch the engine fan (not sure how reliable thermos are on a fourbie in mud etc)
Am also thinking of fabbing a different inlet plenum with smoother intake runners to go with i/c, though not really sure how beneficial this is for a turbo diesel.

I have been very curious to know more about hi-mount turbo setup. seems to me it would provide much better exhaust gas flow for better mid-top end performance, though maybe effect low rpm boost/torque. Have I got this right?

Is ct20 the standard turbo on 1HD-T? mine has a re-co ct26 on it. Any one know the specs on these two turbos?
Mine makes useful boost too high up the rev range, its a slug until around 1950 rpm when boost comes on strong. Ive been told boost coming in so late is due to fuel pump timing/fueling not being correct, though am wondering if this due to mis-matched dturbo.
Im due for injector and pump sevice and will do timing belt and big end bearings at the same time

just depends how far you want to go

$$ and time is the limiting factors
I have eaton supercharger sitting in the shed. would love to put it in combination with a larger hi-mount turbo with air/water i/c and suitable exhaust and intake etc for boost and torque from idle right through the rev range



doesn't hurt to dream....




right, back to reality, don't really have the coin or the knowledge at the moment to take on such a big re-engineering task

ok sorry about last night bud. im looking to get around 220kw to 280kw, 280kw being more the dreaming side of things, this is with the new engine not the currant one.
my exhaust runs the same way as factory but has no mufflers and as mentioned is dumped before the rear diff, it whistles but is not overly loud until further up in the top of the rev range.

there are some great water to air i/c on ebay, if you cant find a suitable one on ebay aus go to ebay international, there is a huge selection there for a very decent price, still if its not right there was someone off this board (sorry cant remember your user name ) that is a absolute pro at tig welding and has done this work before (search for water to air i/c or tig welding or his avatar pic of the weld tip with a arc) im sure it will not be as cheap as ebay but it will most likely out perform those easily for slightly more cashish id assume, but you do get what you pay for.

as for the himount turbo im sure its really a muchness of a muchness, i have learnt that individual equal length runners (not too short but with decent length in each runner) is the best manifold design. there are heaps of other things to consider also. the first topic in this thread is a great read and from my research last night nearly every other examples followed his research also, so i do believe what he is saying/ teaching.

as for the ct-26, as stated last night i really just stuffed up, it is std on the 1hd-t, as for specs you really need to pull one down as the specs seem to be non existant.

cheers mark

[dow50r]

Mark, google ct26 and there are a few sites that go through the setups...
I have pulled a few appart, the rear wheel on the hdt is smaller that the rear wheel on a hdft, but the hdfte returned to the small rear wheel....to boost early and get the fuel happening....with the hdfte, the front wheel is thesame size as the supra, which is larger than what you have now.
Problem is, they are not interchangeable as the new ct26 in the hdfte ghas a smaller shaft...so...the best wat to get more flow out of one is the t4 front wheel, read up on google, also, flow out the motor is important if you want to boost more in...but you will go backwards if you make the manifold too long, the hotter the exhaust, the more energy it carries, as it cools, it looses velocity, and you will loose boost...make it compact and least amount of bends possible...saw a beut manifold made up by herb, steam pipe same as std but 6 into 2 for a later twin entry ct26. thats probably the way to go, if you search on lcool for herbs posts in the archives, he has links to piccies...

[mud4b]

Mark, google ct26 and there are a few sites that go through the setups...
I have pulled a few appart, the rear wheel on the hdt is smaller that the rear wheel on a hdft, but the hdfte returned to the small rear wheel....to boost early and get the fuel happening....with the hdfte, the front wheel is thesame size as the supra, which is larger than what you have now.
Problem is, they are not interchangeable as the new ct26 in the hdfte ghas a smaller shaft...so...the best wat to get more flow out of one is the t4 front wheel, read up on google, also, flow out the motor is important if you want to boost more in...but you will go backwards if you make the manifold too long, the hotter the exhaust, the more energy it carries, as it cools, it looses velocity, and you will loose boost...make it compact and least amount of bends possible...saw a beut manifold made up by herb, steam pipe same as std but 6 into 2 for a later twin entry ct26. thats probably the way to go, if you search on lcool for herbs posts in the archives, he has links to piccies...

hmmm cant i just buy a turbo to suit my application?. i want low down to middle of the top end (but not top end).. there must be something suitable out there... also want ball bearing, external wastegate, 3" inlet from the airbox, 5 bolt rear exhaust output.. just need to work out size now..

my mate has a t3/ t4 on his 1hz that comes on boost at around 2,200 all the way to 4,800 rpm.. the range im after would be around 1,600/ 1,800 to 4,500 rpm.. his is not ball bearing.

what is lcool?

[80's_delirious]

Hi guys, thanks for input, keep it coming!

thanks for feed back re ct26. had been told before specs arent available
Is there any easy way to know for sure if my ct26 is the right one and not from a supra? I guess toyota should be able to at least tell me this!

I guess its time to go shopping for some gauges and 3" zorst

How fool proof is it fiddling with fuel pump tuning? bearing in mind that I have limited past experience with diesel engines, though am fairly mechanically able. If EGT gauge is used and EGTs kept in safe range are there any traps I should be aware of?

Mark no probs on mistake about std turbo mate, helped with more info in other replies, so cheers.
Is your exhaust dumped under the floor or out the side?

lcool is "LandCruiser owners on-line" they just changed from email to forum setup so at the moment archives arent available, though there is stacks of great info available, worth checking out.
Pretty sure you need to register

[url]
http://www.lcool.org/forum/profile.php?mode=register

[80's_delirious]

just checked out that yanmar link, damn does that thing make some torque!!

hey dow50r am curious, you seem to be very clued up on whole range of toyota tech, do you work with toyotas or you just a yota nut?

[mud4b]

Hi guys, thanks for input, keep it coming!

thanks for feed back re ct26. had been told before specs arent available
Is there any easy way to know for sure if my ct26 is the right one and not from a supra? I guess toyota should be able to at least tell me this!

I guess its time to go shopping for some gauges and 3" zorst

How fool proof is it fiddling with fuel pump tuning? bearing in mind that I have limited past experience with diesel engines, though am fairly mechanically able. If EGT gauge is used and EGTs kept in safe range are there any traps I should be aware of?

Mark no probs on mistake about std turbo mate, helped with more info in other replies, so cheers.
Is your exhaust dumped under the floor or out the side?

lcool is "LandCruiser owners on-line" they just changed from email to forum setup so at the moment archives arent available, though there is stacks of great info available, worth checking out.
Pretty sure you need to register

[url]
http://www.lcool.org/forum/profile.php?mode=register

i found messing around with it myself, before you do this back the throttle screw right out as when i wound the fuel screw out and started the truck it instantaneously revved to 2600 rpm at idle... i shut it down asap (damn turbo timers) and backed off the idle stop screw...
you can do it by yourself its not hard, especially if you have a egt gauge but i found although mine went heaps better, once tuned by a pro it was much better again.

my exhaust is dumped pointing strait down/ under the floor.

[80's_delirious]

if you run a Supra turbo ( same looks of the !HD-T CT26 ) in your cruiser engine you found it produce no boost .. ( like 2 - 3 PSI )

boost on my truck kicks in quite suddenly and noticably around 1950rpm.
the increase in power is got to be way to much for only 2-3psi. Ive driven other 80series same model as mine and boost comes on a fair bit lower and with alot smoother torque curve.

Would this be put down to mine being poorly tuned?

[mud4b]

if you run a Supra turbo ( same looks of the !HD-T CT26 ) in your cruiser engine you found it produce no boost .. ( like 2 - 3 PSI )

boost on my truck kicks in quite suddenly and noticably around 1950rpm.
the increase in power is got to be way to much for only 2-3psi. Ive driven other 80series same model as mine and boost comes on a fair bit lower and with alot smoother torque curve.

Would this be put down to mine being poorly tuned?

something i dont think ive mentioned, my currant 80 and my last both cut in at around 1,500 to usually around the 3,500 rpm before it drops off...

what is your drop off point?

[quick60]

While I would like more power, I dont want to sacrifice reliability(not too much anyway)

Simplest way for you is a Safari front mount intercooler & a 3" exhaust (Beaudesert or similar). All bolt on, then have it tuned properly and you should see gains of at least 30-35%. I went this way (or very similar) with a 1HDT in my old 60 series and had 121kw in 4th gear with 35's and 8% overdrive transfers, which worked out a higher ratio than the original 5th gear.
You want reliability, so keep it simple, and you MUST have it tuned properly. Safari provide tuning specs that will keep your engine running within safe limits and possibly extend it's life expectancy.

[4runner2.8]

on this perfomance thing whats a fair price to pay for a 3" exhaust? i was quoted 950 all custom made and fitted which sounds kinda expencive.

[80's_delirious]

boost on mine cuts in around 1950 and drops off probably around 3250rpm.
I think boosted power band supposed to be around 1600-3600rpm in std tune, does that sound right?

I know mine needs a tune, boosts late and inconsistent, boost drops off early, blows too much smoke under acceleration, and idle fluctuates from 450-950rpm, occasionally stalls if idling on a steep incline.
Im a bit reluctant to take it to a pro at this stage until I make some changes ie exhaust, intercooler etc. also have some other issues to sort out first.
will have a go at improving things myself and see what the results are. Will definitely get some gauges, seems most agree they are helpful for tuning.

Starting to make my 80 sound like POS , it was, but its coming good

[udm]

and idle fluctuates from 450-950rpm, occasionally stalls if idling on a steep incline.

you have the same symptoms my brothers 80 has (he cant be bothered fixing it though)... i will be keeping an eye on this thread.

[4runner2.8]

and idle fluctuates from 450-950rpm, occasionally stalls if idling on a steep incline.

you have the same symptoms my brothers 80 has (he cant be bothered fixing it though)... i will be keeping an eye on this thread.

my 1HZ did that when the idel stop was set to low.

[udm]

and idle fluctuates from 450-950rpm, occasionally stalls if idling on a steep incline.

you have the same symptoms my brothers 80 has (he cant be bothered fixing it though)... i will be keeping an eye on this thread.

my 1HZ did that when the idel stop was set to low.

this issue is a little different (and its a 1hdt pump)... it idles at 650 and the next second its at 400, next second its back up at 800, and sometimes if you leave it idleing on a hill, the revs will start decreasing until it shuts down (and there is plenty smoke btw)

[Tapage]

boost on mine cuts in around 1950 and drops off probably around 3250rpm.
I think boosted power band supposed to be around 1600-3600rpm in std tune, does that sound right?

Actually yes .. the 1HD-T factory settings are designed to run a full boost@2000 rpm ( aka 10 PSI ) with use and years you can see up to 11PSI@2000 rpm .. in a healthy engine.

I know mine needs a tune, boosts late and inconsistent, boost drops off early, blows too much smoke under acceleration, and idle fluctuates from 450-950rpm, occasionally stalls if idling on a steep incline.

With good quality gauges you will figure ( or have better idea ) what happends in your engine ..

Did you already play with your wategate .. ? or check it ( if you disconect it at all be carefull coz you can see easy 20 PSI ) just to figure if this problems ..

[80's_delirious]

Quick update.

this morning i fitted a new timing belt. I am amazed at the difference this has made.
seat of the pants heres whats better. . .

more torque low in the rev range before boost (was a slug down low before)
boost comes on 100-150rpm sooner and drops off a bit higher
smoother torque curve up through the revs
at idle it now purrs like a kitten, smooth idle at 450rpm. fluctuation in idle speed seems to be gone
more responsive to throttle right through the rev range.


I changed nothing else at all, only timing belt. Visually it didn,t look excessively worn, though judging by the long list of overdue maintenance I have had to take care of since I bought this rig, I can almost guarantee the timing belt would have been way overdue for a change.

I am blown away that changing timing belt has made such a difference. Is this much of a change feasible or am I imagining it?
I guess the next couple of days Ill know for sure.

I guess an excessively worn timing belt could account for a couple of degrees in pump timing. Does this sound realistic?

Ive ordered EGT and boost gauge and boost controller, will start inquiring about exhaust and intercoolers this week. cant wait to get this puppy tuned up

[Dzltec]

The only thing a timing belt will change is camshaft timing. the pump is gear driven. Why not find a correct size garret bb to suit your job?


Andy

[balzackracing]

high mount turbo

[Tapage]

B E Y O T I F U L L !!!!!

[mud4b]

1hz with highmount and big turbo..... nice. is it running yet?


also dzltec are you sure the hdt pump is run by gears, my old engine had the belt running the pump.

cheers mark.

[mud4b]

1hz with highmount and big turbo..... nice. is it running yet?


also dzltec are you sure the hdt pump is run by gears, my old engine had the belt running the pump.

cheers mark.