front wheel bearings

Post by **built4thrashing** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:19 pm

can anyone give me the part numbers for the front wheel bearings on a WT sierra? SJ413. mine a roo ted

Post by **Bad JuJu** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 7:54 am

The kit number (from autopro) is 2613

Post by **suzuki boy** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 10:08 am

MIne were rotted but fixed last week!

Were $33 a side just in case you wanted to know wether your getting ripprd or i got ripped! MIne a narrow track!

Post by **built4thrashing** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 7:09 pm

sweet. already bought a swivel hub seal kit and will get a wheel bearing kit this week so it al ready for the long weekend.
btw hub seal kit with king pins was $88 from ebay

Post by **foolsp33d** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 2:01 pm

Were $33 a side just in case you wanted to know wether your getting ripprd or i got ripped! MIne a narrow track!

interesting... have just 'ordered' these (as they were'nt in stock) and got quoted $50 a side!! where did you get your from Nathan!??

My quote was through Autopro Thomastown.. anyone care to throw some thoughts into the equation!? ie: has the rise in fuel put a $17 price rise on parts!!?? or is there some staff discounting/gaining goin on!?!

probably should do hub seal and kingpin while im at it right!??

Post by **Nev** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 9:43 pm

Bloody hell, you guys got them cheap...I just bought some for mine and the cheapest I could find (rang 5 different places) was $55 per side for some German brand. Got quoted $90 per side for NSK and $78 for Timken.

Post by **bigzuk** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 10:53 pm

i paid $50 for both sides for mine.

on the box is network automotive kits and part number is 1905.

kits for 1300 84 onwards

Post by **BAD70Y** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:22 am

I bought CBC front wheel replacement bearing and seal kit,
Kit no. sz191 (one side)
includes
2x Koyo part no. 57414 (bearing)
1x split pin
1x seal
$73.41 ex gst

I am going to take it back!!

Post by **suzuki boy** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:57 am

MIne where just from the bearing wholesalers in melton!

MInes a NT if that makes a difference!

BUt i havn't done a set for a while! Ussed to do them all the time!

TOUCH WOOD!

Post by **foolsp33d** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:35 pm

Well i need the zuk for work so i had to bite the bullet and called up repco.. quoted $90 for both sides... thought rippa what a deal... am sold on that. in stock, local, sweet... went in to pick them up... turns out their "both sides" was one side, but both inner and outer bearings.. makes sense.. Anyway.. got two sets, total cost.. $110 bucks..

Now my other question is: which order did the nuts go back on that retain the actual bearing! lol, i know i should of paid attention when i took em off.. but hey we are only human! Other question is.. anyone got a socket i can borrow to get the nuts back on!!? or will a gentle tap with the hammer n screwy sort it out ok?

Much appreciated for the help fellas... next up is knuckles n kings..

Post by **BAD70Y** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:33 pm

On all my 4x4's I've always used a hammer and screwdriver, but
Best to use a socket if you get one!

Post by **Bad_Zook** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:23 pm

i paid 50 each side for Nsk's and 80 for the swivel hub kit..

I had the right spanner 1 7/8' from memory for that big nut...

Post by **suzuki boy** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:45 pm

foolsp33d wrote:Well i need the zuk for work so i had to bite the bullet and called up repco.. quoted $90 for both sides... thought rippa what a deal... am sold on that. in stock, local, sweet... went in to pick them up... turns out their "both sides" was one side, but both inner and outer bearings.. makes sense.. Anyway.. got two sets, total cost.. $110 bucks..

Now my other question is: which order did the nuts go back on that retain the actual bearing! lol, i know i should of paid attention when i took em off.. but hey we are only human! Other question is.. anyone got a socket i can borrow to get the nuts back on!!? or will a gentle tap with the hammer n screwy sort it out ok?

Much appreciated for the help fellas... next up is knuckles n kings..

Cant help you winth the ordear of the nuts and stuff BUT
The socket your after is a longer socket that has 2 holes at the top you can sitck a screwdriver through and DONT overtighten it! Do it so it's just over tight......You will know what i mean!

The first set i put in too tight and they didn't last long at all! The mechanic over the road tought me to do it and they have been great for over a year now!

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:59 pm

DO NOT USE A HAMMER AND SCREWDRIVER!!!!!!

There is a very specific procedure for setting wheel bearing tension, and it involves far higher torque than most people use.

Basically, (and from memory, and I might be a bit off) it involves tightening the inner nut to 80nm, backing it off retightenting to 10nm, and then fitting the outer nut and tightening to 90nm.

This is far tighter than I have been shown, but works a treat s it is from the FSM.

There is no difference between the inner and outer nut but make sure they are de-burred (any damage from previous hack jobs with hammer and screwdriver removed) or the tension will back off over time.

Steve.

Post by **muppet_man67** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:07 pm

by far the best way to do it is with a torque wrench. You put it back together and its right. no buggering around. In the long run investing in a couple of tools will save you time and money. apparently not all brands of sockets are deep enough. my kingcrome 50mm just fits, I have heard that others don't.

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:42 pm

muppet_man67 wrote:by far the best way to do it is with a torque wrench. You put it back together and its right. no buggering around. In the long run investing in a couple of tools will save you time and money. apparently not all brands of sockets are deep enough. my kingcrome 50mm just fits, I have heard that others don't.

I have a repco one and it isn't really deep enough to do with the axle in.

Actual hub spanners (as used by landcruisers etc) are not available in 50mm.

Steve.

Post by **foolsp33d** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:59 pm

dang it eh.. so whos the tool maker here whos going to start makin up 50mm deep sockets for the zuki lol. will take one lol. guess its going to be a case of raiding the mates sheds and seeing who has the deepest sockets lol. Or anyone care to loan me one!?? Location:Tempy/Doncaster.
PM me if you wish.

cheers fellas...

was certainly time for new bearings me thinks! lol. oh and which way did they nuts go back on.. i know i should be paying attention:P

Post by **muppet_man67** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:54 am

how did it drive?

Post by **suzuki boy** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:56 pm

That what mine where like the first time.......the second time........ how hot was you hub getting?

The socket i used was probably 100mm long with 2 holes drilled in ti you could stick a screwdriver through and tighten it up!

The mechanic over the road had it and tought me how to know when the tension or what ever is all good!

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 5:17 pm

If you can't put a torque wrench on it, the tension (or whatever

) will never be "all good"

As I explained, there is a procedure that works, perfectly, but requires a torque wrench. Most tube sockets like you are referring to have a strap across the back with a square hole to take a square drive to you can use a torque wrench.

I know what you have been shown, I have been shown how to do landcruiser/hilux bearings by feel and preload, but it's not correct for a sierra and will lead to short bearing life.

Steve.

Post by **suzuki boy** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 5:18 pm

Gwagensteve wrote:If you can't put a torque wrench on it, the tension (or whatever ) will never be "all good"

As I explained, there is a procedure that works, perfectly, but requires a torque wrench. Most tube sockets like you are referring to have a strap across the back with a square hole to take a square drive to you can use a torque wrench.

I know what you have been shown, I have been shown how to do landcruiser/hilux bearings by feel and preload, but it's not correct for a sierra and will lead to short bearing life.

Steve.

Fairenough but it's been fine for over a year know and before i was flogging them out every 4 months or so!

Must have done something right!

Post by **Danzo** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 5:19 pm

foolsp33d wrote:

PHUK

I've seen bad but Holy Cow

the actual nuts are the same, so dosent matter which one goes first, Just dont forget the locking washer with the inner-guid that goes in-between them

I am suprised your wheels didnt lock up

Post by **Spike_Sierra** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:13 pm

heaps of life left in those, bit of new grease but the rollers back in the housing good as new!

Post by **mr green** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:56 pm

i just use the 54mm socket i have for the toyota and nissan. its a bit big but does the job without damaging anything

Post by **BlueSuzy** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:35 pm

im actually in the process of doing mine now, my left bearing were similar to that pic... and i also pulled the hub locking assembly apart to clean, they look sweet polished up. suzy has abit of bling!

Post by **foolsp33d** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:47 pm

BlueSuzy wrote:im actually in the process of doing mine now, my left bearing were similar to that pic... and i also pulled the hub locking assembly apart to clean, they look sweet polished up. suzy has abit of bling!

Interesting as that IS the passenger side!! the Drivers side 'feels' ok.. but will be getting done one i can get a freakin socket! 'sheet' i HATE waiting for payday! I noticed the hubs were preety Blingy to, will look shmick with some elbow grease n a lil less dirt n gunk! lol.

the drivers side hub has always been a bit hard to turn,(hard enough to need an open end spanner/plyers) inspection shows the spring inside to have come off-broken- on the locating lugs... swappin it with the spare zuki one:D figners crossed!

Gwagen.. free over the weeknd!?? feel like a trip to Templestowe!? lol, bring req. socket/ torque wrench.. i'll bring beers n bourbons, n nething else required!! would come to you but its to hard to drive the zuki in a wheel stand....

Post by **BlueSuzy** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:02 pm

my locking nuts were loose as, hammer and a screwdiriver got em off. probably half the problem but they both used to vibrate/grind wen spun. the locking mechanism i heard u put rubber grease on the o ring in the locking bit and its meant to make it easier. (held on by a clip) also watch out for the locating tiny ball bearing and tiny spring!! i almost lost it.

. my mates suzy i think it doesnt have o rings cos the locks are effortless to lock in! and they go ping when u lock in!

Post by **foolsp33d** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 2:46 pm

Danzo wrote:
the actual nuts are the same, so dosent matter which one goes first, Just dont forget the locking washer with the inner-guid that goes in-between them

The big two flat sided(top and bottom) spacer directly behind the bearing, then a nut, then the lock nut with bendable tabs, followed by the final nut.... correct!??

In asking the question and finding an image to explain i answered my own question...

So hopefully it will help someone else out.

EDit: More tech pics added, with torque specs.

Oh I have a deep 50 MM socket and torque wrench avail for $25 or a sixa of JB black a day should anyone need to redo wheel bearings in melbourne

bibleworthy Mr Mods!?!????

Post by **zooki** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 3:23 pm

pre load can also be checked by tying some cord to a wheel stud and wrapping it around the outside of all the studs and pulling on the end with a spring measure (fish weighing scale type thing) to measure the force needed to make the hub turn, you need 1-3kg of force to be withing range

Post by **fool_injected** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 6:15 pm

Looks like the bearing I replaced this morning, totally farked
It let go that bad that it the rotor was gouged by the stub

Snapped a uni this afternoon, yes snapped

(driving like a twat)

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front wheel bearings

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