I did a search and didn't find a specific answer...
A bit of background: I've got a 96 coily, I broke the donk a while ago and it was sitting in storage for about twelve months at work until two days ago when we sourced a good cheap second hand engine for it and swapped it over. Problem was, the original engine was a G13B and the replacement was a G13A - for $400 and two bottles of bundy I thought it was a good deal. The diesel mechanic at work di the swap for me and had to mod a few bits and pieces such as replacing the timing pulleys and belts off the A with the ones from the B. Pollution gear was a bit of a problem too, but we got that sorted and got her running this arvo.
All went well on the initial test flight - maybe 10km, at speeds of upto about 90km/h but when I took her home this arvo, problems started as soon as I drove it out of the gate - it was losing power badly on take off and stalling in first. I had to plant it to actually get going and the same thing happened any time I had to stop at lights or roundabouts. I stalled it a couple of times in traffic.
Any ideas on the possible cause?
Cheers.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Gutless Sierra - broken?
Van-tastic!
Posts: 6107
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:22 pm
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:22 pm
Location: .."I MIGHT NOT AGREE WITH WHAT YOU SAY, BUT ILL DEFEND YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT".
check all the vacuum lines. I had something similar and turned out one of the vacuum lines near the carby had slipped off.
Also maybe check and replace fuel filter, could be blocked with gunk from sitting round
Also maybe check and replace fuel filter, could be blocked with gunk from sitting round
98 WT LWB Maruti, 1.6efi, rockhoppers, 2" body lift, 2" springs, 32" BFG muddies, jimny Power Steer, front lockrite :-)
Thanks for the responses fellas.
I have the full carby/manifold from the G13B sitting at home, so I'll perservere with the attached carby for a little while and see how I go before seeking some expensive professional assistance. Maybe the B carby and manifold will bolt straight onto the A? At this stage I can discount choke issues and fuel line/filters as being the problem. I'll check vac lines this arvo. I found the idle screw and what appears to be a mixture screw and fiddled with them a bit - quick Q re mixture screw: which way does it turn for lean/rich? The B engine didn't have one that I could see.
cheers
I have the full carby/manifold from the G13B sitting at home, so I'll perservere with the attached carby for a little while and see how I go before seeking some expensive professional assistance. Maybe the B carby and manifold will bolt straight onto the A? At this stage I can discount choke issues and fuel line/filters as being the problem. I'll check vac lines this arvo. I found the idle screw and what appears to be a mixture screw and fiddled with them a bit - quick Q re mixture screw: which way does it turn for lean/rich? The B engine didn't have one that I could see.
cheers
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
The idle mixture screw is at the base of the carby, and is present on both model carbs. They have a anti-tamper cover on them from the factory.ABMM wrote:Thanks for the responses fellas.
I have the full carby/manifold from the G13B sitting at home, so I'll perservere with the attached carby for a little while and see how I go before seeking some expensive professional assistance. Maybe the B carby and manifold will bolt straight onto the A? At this stage I can discount choke issues and fuel line/filters as being the problem. I'll check vac lines this arvo. I found the idle screw and what appears to be a mixture screw and fiddled with them a bit - quick Q re mixture screw: which way does it turn for lean/rich? The B engine didn't have one that I could see.
cheers
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
taking a stab in the dark here,
Did the B carby run a water temp auto choke?
the A carby does and if the water is low you can get an air pocket in the carbie and the auto choke wont let it idle and will feel like its misfiring untill about 2800rpm
Probably just a cracked or blocked vacume line though
Did the B carby run a water temp auto choke?
the A carby does and if the water is low you can get an air pocket in the carbie and the auto choke wont let it idle and will feel like its misfiring untill about 2800rpm
Probably just a cracked or blocked vacume line though
I hate going to weddings because all the grandma's used to poke me in the ribs saying you're next, you're next. They've stopped doing it since I started doing it to them at funerals.
Danzo, it could very well be an air pocket - that was something the diesel mechanic mentioned. Still working the vac lines, but an air pocket is plan B for continuing diagnosis - any hints on how to check for it and fix it?
[sunshine_blowing] PS: Thanks very much for all your responses so far. Much appreciated - This is a great forum with bloody helpful population [/sunshine_blowing]
[sunshine_blowing] PS: Thanks very much for all your responses so far. Much appreciated - This is a great forum with bloody helpful population [/sunshine_blowing]
just make sure the water lines are not blocked first,
then run the car without the radiator cap off and watch for the water to start flowing, top up if necessary. check the temp in the water lines at the back of the carbie if they both get warm then its not usually blocked.
sometimes when changing motors, some unwanted gunk will be released into the system and block up lines and eventually your radiator.
my poor radiator has survived 3 motors now and each one filled it with gunk, finally on the 3rd motor it was starting to show signs of heating up and you could see some gunk build up on top of the fins. So I took it to Red Devil radiators and $88 later, It runs like a new one.
Could also be a blocked idler vac line.
then run the car without the radiator cap off and watch for the water to start flowing, top up if necessary. check the temp in the water lines at the back of the carbie if they both get warm then its not usually blocked.
sometimes when changing motors, some unwanted gunk will be released into the system and block up lines and eventually your radiator.
my poor radiator has survived 3 motors now and each one filled it with gunk, finally on the 3rd motor it was starting to show signs of heating up and you could see some gunk build up on top of the fins. So I took it to Red Devil radiators and $88 later, It runs like a new one.
Could also be a blocked idler vac line.
I hate going to weddings because all the grandma's used to poke me in the ribs saying you're next, you're next. They've stopped doing it since I started doing it to them at funerals.
The saga continues...
When I was hooking up all the fiddly stuff the other night after swapping over the intake manifold, I noticed that the throttle cable was a little too tight - explains the mysterious 1500-2000 rpm idle that it has had since I got it. I loosened it up until it was down to about 1200 at idle and was good to go until... I drove it home and noticed that it wouldn't idle when I put my foot on the clutch. I duly tightened up the throttle cable again and was rewarded with the familiar but annoying too-fast idle speed. Any idea why it's idling so fast and why it dies when I set the cable adjustment correctly? - idle screw does jack shit (at least I hope it's the idle screw I've been fiddling with)
Also, the new/old G13A donk has a bit of a rattle in it - Reckon a service will fix or minimise it?
Cheers
When I was hooking up all the fiddly stuff the other night after swapping over the intake manifold, I noticed that the throttle cable was a little too tight - explains the mysterious 1500-2000 rpm idle that it has had since I got it. I loosened it up until it was down to about 1200 at idle and was good to go until... I drove it home and noticed that it wouldn't idle when I put my foot on the clutch. I duly tightened up the throttle cable again and was rewarded with the familiar but annoying too-fast idle speed. Any idea why it's idling so fast and why it dies when I set the cable adjustment correctly? - idle screw does jack shit (at least I hope it's the idle screw I've been fiddling with)
Also, the new/old G13A donk has a bit of a rattle in it - Reckon a service will fix or minimise it?
Cheers
[img]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff306/abmm1/abmmzook.gif[/img]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 85 guests