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because i'm so wealthy... ... i've decided to go the engine reco option on my engine, instead of the applause swap... pulled the motor out tonight with my brother in law, i must have saved hime a good 4 or 5 mins with all the help i gave him...
now weighing up clutch, engine mounts(left cracked) and replacement hose options...
been browsing past threads and was wondering if anyone had anything else to add regarding part preferences ie brands etc, prices paid and retailers where parts were purchased??
looks like there are a few fans of the daiken HD clutch , still the best way to go??
anyone done mounts and or hoses lately? any prefered brands/retailers??
reco. being done by duncan and foster at blacktown... any other advise regarding the whole reco. process much appreciated.
With regards to hoses and engine mounts etc. I have always bought daihatsu genuine.
They are probably more expensive but at least i know they will fit when i get them home.
I have had to many times where parts bought from the REPCO's etc of the world have not fitted when i go to install them.
Having said that i have bought timing belt kits, fan belts, filters, clutch kits etc from these blokes without to many dramas.
On a side note, the genuine parts are becoming a little harder to get now.
Sometimes lately i have had to wait quite a number of weeks for parts to come from overseas.
The reco guys should be able to source and use internal engine component from brands with a good track record.
I will be interested in how it all goes mate as i will probably heading down the same path in 12 months or so. Keep us posted.
What made you decide to go reco rather than engine swap?
Clint,
Limited Edition 95 Roza & 2006 ST Patrol Coil Cab Ute.... both a work in progress.
Clint wrote:
What made you decide to go reco rather than engine swap?
i want to hang on to the little beastie as long as i can, still a heap of exploring to do and i like it's size off-road, so i thought the better long term option was to reco. i know there are plenty of success stories with the applause swap, but i could see myself doing numerous swaps for the length of time i hope to keep her. applause engines are getting on a bit too and i guess it can be a bit of a lucky dip when you take that option... but hey... i'm definatly no expert!
my brother in law has delt with these guys before, http://www.duncanfoster.com.au/ for various work and has found them pretty good. they don't touch the cars at all, just engines. no cloak and dagger, it's a total rebuild from the way they descibed it, with a 12mth unlimited kms warranty on all parts and labour. latest equipment, old school approach. they'll be machining the flywheel as well.
priced a few parts 2day(roughly) engine mounts $73 each, daiken HD clutch kit $300-350, full set of water hoses 'Mackay' $100-120...
sound about right??
the motor went back in last weekend and all seems to be going well(touch wood)
i have a few pics i may post at some stage.
running very smooth, been keeping revs below 3000 while running in... sound ok??
even at these revs she's pulling much better up hills she used to struggle with.
had a nasty rattling noise, pre reco, which sounded like a tin can jumping around in the engine, didn't really investigate the source. turned out it wasn't the engine, it was the cat. which explains a few things... problem is gone now
murcod wrote:Did they report anything unusual while doing the rebuild?
no they didn't... all went pretty smoothly too. they said 10 working days and that's how long it took. it came in a little cheaper than quoted... $2700.
they seemed to be very thorough... as far as i can tell
(... my brother in law who actually has a clue seemed to be pretty happy with the work)
checked the oil today...
1. it was still all there
2. it was a nice caramel colour rather than black
...still running well, seems to be a small oil leak drippin down onto the front/underneath of the bell housing, can't quite spot where it's coming from... sump gasket/joint??
for your left engine mount get a piece of seat belt and a soldering iron burn a hole in it rap it around your engine mount burn another hole in it then put it back in . ferozas will all ways brack left ones .when in low range 4x4 .i did it after my 3rd mount and it has bean there for over 1year now .
i'll have a better look for the leak on the weekend, i'll start around the dizzy...thanks
so is that just one wrap with the seatbelt, as in a circle. or a double wrap kina thing... if that makes sense
can i do the seat belt mod by just undoing the 1 mount or do i have to undo them both and/or the bell housing etc...
oh... by the way, i'm missing a bolt for the bell housing. would my best bet be to grab one from the wreckers? would one from an applause be the same??
And if your into fixing mounts - do the same for the transmission.
I am up to 3 Passenger side, 2 Transmission and a Drivers side ....... Sounds like the twelve days of Christmas doesn't it ?
After adding seatbelt did not have another breakage but have chucked
the Feroza mounts totally ( another loooooong story ).
Here's my take on why they break - unlike many 4WD's Feroza's don't have any torque reaction bushes, so there's no specific mechanism to limit engine and transmission movement. As I have crawler gears it was only going to get worse - so a torque reaction bush was added at the transfer as well as different mounts.
However..... when you think about how the force is applied to the mount you have to wonder how it really works.
Will it stop the mount twisting, not really, lifting - yes but well after the mechanical keepers come into effect, fore and aft, yes if the belts really tight, and I found this really difficult to get right in the car
I did this to a broken mount to see exactly when the seatbelt would "kick in" and discovered that it just didn't seem to work, even with the belt tighter than I could achieve in the car - the amount of movement possible in the mount was a bit of a worry.
Still up to the point of chucking the stock mounts I didn't have a breakage ( but didn't really give it a mega workout ) and I like the idea of the belt as a safety mechanism so what the heck....
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
MightyMouse wrote:
Will it stop the mount twisting, not really, lifting - yes but well after the mechanical keepers come into effect, fore and aft, yes if the belts really tight, and I found this really difficult to get right in the car
But there aren't any mechanical "keepers" (or movement limiters?) on the mounts- that's the problem.
MightyMouse wrote:Your obviously running different mounts to me. I went to the junk bin and all the engine mounts have keepers as a part of the metal structures.
They must be a disaster when they break without the keepers !
Yes! My old one was clean torn in half and you can completely separate it.
Do you have a pic of your old "genuine" mounts? I'd be interested to see the design of them.
I actually think we are both looking at the same mount - perhaps I have misused the word "keepers". What I am refering to is the extension of the top steel plate with the rubber pads as shown in Clints picture.
Oops - sorry re the confusion.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I have always used genuine mounts and there is no way that the top and botttom plate are kept together if the rubber tears apart.
I had gone through 6 mounts before i put the seatbelt webbing on and since then i haven't busted any. (not for the lack of trying either )
They break because the torque of the engine pulls apart the mount and tears the rubber. Uphill, lowrange and shock loading makes it worse.
The seatbelt prevents the seperation.
I think i have an old busted genuine mount if you want me to dig it out and take a pic.
Clint,
Limited Edition 95 Roza & 2006 ST Patrol Coil Cab Ute.... both a work in progress.
As I stated earlier - i did the same seatbelt thing and for as long as I ran it the passengers side didn't break, wasn't that long so maybe I didn't try hard enough !
But given the broken drivers side mount ( its in compression when under load ) and the transmission mounts it still doesn't look good for their overall strength.
IMO their just under designed for the loads applied and I got sick of carrying spares in the toolbox ( and their @#$ dear to ).
And thanks, but if I never see another genuine engine or gearbox mount then that's fine by me
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
