Bad ass clunk...

[ash_on_mtb]

Problem - 80 series, '91, has been used for towing a boat. Recently (a few days ago) copped a new clutch although it had this problem prior.

When the clutch is let out, there is a reasonably car shaking thump/clunk. To me, it feels like there is slack between the drive shaft and the diff (not real precise, I know). It will also clunk and carry on when you gently get on and off the throttle.

Where do I start in identifying the problem, and what action can I take? Still need to get under and grease uni's, but doubt that's the problem...

And if there are any suggestions for a reputable diff place in SE Melb, please let me know.

Oh, and I'm also chasing a decent how-to instruction for a CV change on this truck. Anyone got any links, the LCOOL site is reasonable but are there any better ones, as I've never had a crack but love to learn (with some instructions handy...) There is some ghastly clicking coming from the front right which gets more severe as more lock is applied. Is there anything else it could be down there?? And are CV's reasonably easy to replace in the driveway ?

Cheers all,

[Sic Lux]

Is it lifted and how many K's at a quick guess it'd say a uni is up the S t also maybe too much backlash get it seen to as you maybe able to just get it adjusted if it's not to far gone

[ash_on_mtb]

300k, currently and previously bog stock (sadly)

Getting it seen to may be the go, I'll get under and give the uni's a wriggle today, see if its in there...

[fullmetaljacket]

check that uni's are not loose, and centre ber'n if it has one

[carts]

What you describe sounds to me like a common 80 series complaint. In earlier models the CV splines I believe used to wear out and cause excessive driveline backlash. You will notice the clunk as you accelerate off the mark, and decelerate.

You also are complaining of CV noise, which is characteristic of CV's that require replacement. You wear grooves into them, which cause them to click as you turn corners. The tighter the corner, the harsher they clicik.

Someone on Ebay were selling sloppy driveline conversions for early 80 series cruisers. It was an update to an early series part. They rectified this issue in the later cruisers.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-80-s ... dZViewItem

[ash_on_mtb]

I had a look at that ebay store, and it seems to be pretty close to the mark, although it does 'feel' like its in the rear end... Bit of grease, bit of a wobble and maybe some new CV's eh, see how it goes.

Now, about getting these CV's out, anyone know a link to a how to?? Found one on LCOOL, which isn't too bad, but surely someone else has explained in previously?

Thanks for the help

[ash_on_mtb]

greased the uni's which has softened the noise, but it seems that the ebay link above has the best description to my problem (thanks carts).

Is what they have written a common thing, or it a sales spiel...??

[goannaoffroad]

There are a few things that wear or become loose in an 80's
the rear diff pinion flange comes loose
the rear tail shaft splines wears
excess backlash in the transfer case (center diff etc) wears
the front tail shaft splines wears
the cv's wear
the cv drive plate splines wear
the left hand steering arm studs come loose
the front and rear stub axles wear so the wheel bearings are loose on the stub (up and down movement)
Its a good idea to get under the vehicle and shake push pull and twist things to get some idea of whats loose and whats rattling and banging look for oil leaks etc while your under there.
The wear in the constant 4wd 80's drive line is common especially in the front prop' shaft and drive plates Toyota increased the length of the splines to try and cure the problem.
Because the diff' ratio's are the same front and rear the drive line tends to "float" so as power comes on and off all the splines in every thing hammer which causes wear and the smallest splines are the ones that suffer the most.
The cv's can be removed by jacking up the front end and placing on stands ,removing front wheels ,removing brake caliper bolts and move caliper to the side (don't let it hang by the hose), removing drive plate ( a sharp belt with a hammer and brass drift on the end of the stud will get the collets out) undo hub nuts remove hub and disc,undo the bolts that hold the stub axle to the swivel housing and remove the stub axle and brake backing plate now the cv can be removed.Once cv is out clean out and repack swivel housing and cv's with molly grease and reassemble with new gaskets,it's a good idea to repack the wheel bearings and replace the hub seal while its apart don't over tighten the wheel bearings or they will be damaged in a short time.This job takes around 4 hours in a workshop with all the gear in the drive way at home I'd allow a few more hours if you haven't done it before.
Good luck with it.

[ash_on_mtb]

geez, is that all, I'll have it licked by thursday....

[seaeagle]

how did it all go.... i know this is an old post ,,,but thats what the search is for and mines doing the same thing...
how much slop/play is to much for uni's?

[80's_delirious]

how did it all go.... i know this is an old post ,,,but thats what the search is for and mines doing the same thing...
how much slop/play is to much for uni's?

is this your problem?

When the clutch is let out, there is a reasonably car shaking thump/clunk. To me, it feels like there is slack between the drive shaft and the diff (not real precise, I know). It will also clunk and carry on when you gently get on and off the throttle.

I had the same problem, I used "sloppy driveline conversion" and problem gone.
sloppy driveline conversion just uses CVs and drive flanges from post '94 80series coz they have longer splines so less wear and tear.

[seaeagle]

mines on a 60series and it only does it in first gear if you rev it a bit(cold starts) all other gears a fine....