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Ok now I'm CONFUSED ??? HELP
Ok now I'm CONFUSED ??? HELP
Ok guys help me out,
As per a previous tread I was trying to pinpoint a noise in the front of my mav when either the hubs were locked in ,or the transfer put in 4h. When driven it made a funny rattle weird noise that sounded from the rhf but later sounded around the transfer ??
So now I decided to remove the front driveshaft to eliminate the transfer or c.v's etc. But now it wont make the noise at all ..
I just greased the unis and slip joint with no change in the noise and just felt the unis and seem ok ....
Any idea's ....
As per a previous tread I was trying to pinpoint a noise in the front of my mav when either the hubs were locked in ,or the transfer put in 4h. When driven it made a funny rattle weird noise that sounded from the rhf but later sounded around the transfer ??
So now I decided to remove the front driveshaft to eliminate the transfer or c.v's etc. But now it wont make the noise at all ..
I just greased the unis and slip joint with no change in the noise and just felt the unis and seem ok ....
Any idea's ....
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
its a 4" lift or so I was told ....... what does yours do ??MUD CLUB wrote:what lift? ive got a six and i cant drive with hubs locked 2wd or 4wd over 40-50ks dont know why just learnt to live with it
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
have you check the level and quality of the oil in the transfer??
its hard to say exactly but if it took 50kms of driving i dought it would be due to the lift as this would be present from the get go. Maybe look at draining the oil in the transfer and look for stuff that shouldn't be there.
Just Mi2c
Daniels
its hard to say exactly but if it took 50kms of driving i dought it would be due to the lift as this would be present from the get go. Maybe look at draining the oil in the transfer and look for stuff that shouldn't be there.
Just Mi2c
Daniels
yeh they were both locked properly and locked and unlocked a few times ... may need to rip out the c.v's just to check ...macca81 wrote:are your hubs locked in properly? if one or both are unlocked, or not locked all the way in, ya can get a rattle noise at times...
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
my mq shorty used to do the same thing, 4h or 4L it rattled over 25 30klms, turns out it was my front uni joint, it felt tight but when i pressed out the race cups they were had it!, just an idea to check.
91 GQ lwb, 6"lift, 35's, RB30DET twin cam head efi turbo.
98 Nissan s1 stagea rb25det manual, sleeper family wagon!
98 Nissan s1 stagea rb25det manual, sleeper family wagon!
couldn't feel any wear in it, but the roller bearing you mention might be worth checking as it only seems to happen under stress from the transfer , may be rolling on a different area or sumthing ???Woop wrote:It COULD be the small needle roller bearings in the base of the stub axles... Does the slip-joint have any wear in it?
Nick
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
mmm. well if anyone has a cheap front driveshaft for sale on the coast or brissy let me know , just another thing to eliminate ..nicksamaniac wrote:my mq shorty used to do the same thing, 4h or 4L it rattled over 25 30klms, turns out it was my front uni joint, it felt tight but when i pressed out the race cups they were had it!, just an idea to check.
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
Your unis are running at different angles as you needed to retain your correct Castor, so your front driveshaft will run unbalanced. you can usually get away with up to a 4 inch lift but for a 6 inch lift you need some serious modifications to get rid of the vibrations at higher speeds. you can fit a double carden at the transfer end and rotate your swivel hubs or pumpkin so the front uni runs straight or you could cut and rotate your swivel hubs/pumpkin so both unis run the same angle which would probably have your pinion just about dragging in the dirt. Most people put up with the inconvenience of unlocking their hubs when they want to drive faster.MUD CLUB wrote:what lift? ive got a six and i cant drive with hubs locked 2wd or 4wd over 40-50ks dont know why just learnt to live with it
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