Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
boby lift fitters
boby lift fitters
hey I'm thinking of getting a 2"-3" body lift for my 88 swb safari. ya guys know anyone who fits it all around south side Brisbane?
cheers
cheers
live in yeronga but yeah not keen on doing it myself. got no tools anyways :(
id prob give it to on track or redland 4wd center to do. quotes at $840. moving radiator, fuel filler/breather, raise rear bumperettes, new plates for rear body bolts, clutch hose. cant raise font bumper cause of the pto winch meh thats ok they will get bent up soon i rekon
id prob give it to on track or redland 4wd center to do. quotes at $840. moving radiator, fuel filler/breather, raise rear bumperettes, new plates for rear body bolts, clutch hose. cant raise font bumper cause of the pto winch meh thats ok they will get bent up soon i rekon
you would be better off buying a kit for 100... then spending $700 on tools (you would get away with a socket set, trolley jack, carstands if your keen and screwdriver set - or a compressor and rattle gun make it easier)...
then you will always have them $700 of tools, and the experience to work on your own car.
For a 2in lift, most dont bother moving the bumpers.
radiator could be a good move.
fuel breather ?
plates for rear body bolts? nuts and bolts work
then you will always have them $700 of tools, and the experience to work on your own car.
For a 2in lift, most dont bother moving the bumpers.
radiator could be a good move.
fuel breather ?
plates for rear body bolts? nuts and bolts work
bogged you hit the nail on the head right there. That would be the best way to do it and if someone has offered help you can't go wrong .bogged wrote:you would be better off buying a kit for 100... then spending $700 on tools (you would get away with a socket set, trolley jack, carstands if your keen and screwdriver set - or a compressor and rattle gun make it easier)...
then you will always have them $700 of tools, and the experience to work on your own car.
For a 2in lift, most dont bother moving the bumpers.
radiator could be a good move.
fuel breather ?
plates for rear body bolts? nuts and bolts work
My body lift cost $20 for bolts (grade 8) and $50 for teflon to make the blocks, so $70 and two hours of my time make it 3 i had to make the blocks on the lathe. very cheap bugger paying $800- $900 thats a lot of tools or extra stuff four the bus maybe a nice srt of driving lights and still have money for piss
i agree. i have zero mechanical skills and did it with a mate in 3 hours on the weekend. yes you need tools, but hey, if you're about to start modifying your truck and take it off road, you can't call a workshop out in the bush when things go wrong. start to learn about your truck, spend the coin on tools and you'll be better off for it especially when you're stuck out bush and have half a clue how to fix something. it's one of the most basic mods you can do and you don't need to do any of the stuff you've mentioned. just watch the brake lines don't stretch too much.
88 td42 gq. 2" body & 3" OME, 36" beadlocked 'pedes, ARB winch bar mod'd for body lift, rear locker.....
dont know how you'd move a GQ radiator down 2 inches or why you would want to? all that needs doin is remove the lowwer insert from the shroud n cut the 10mm sliver from the edge of the hole, hard to explain but I can show you if you like. you will not need a clutch line unless you have gearbox spacers. you will need 10 blocks with bolts, if its pre 1992? it will have 10mm bolts post will be 12mm. My 1988 swb, 1989 lwb x2 had 10mm while 1992 wagon n 1992 ute have 12mm. fuel filler is just some pipe to stretch the rubber hoses, I can proberly lift the front bumper but will have to have a look, possably rear bumper aswell.
Do you plan on doin a 1/4 chop
Do you plan on doin a 1/4 chop
Hi Robjohno
We've performed #$%&loads of body lifts on GQ Patrols. What you would get away with doing yourself is quite different in many cases to getting it done professionally. The cooling system will always work best when the fan shroud 'shrouds' the fan, thereby preventing the fan from drawing air from behind the fan to in front of the fan. It needs to draw the air through the radiator like it is suppose to. It is easy to drop the radiator and produces the best result - so we do it.
If you are doing your own work then you will be happy with your end result - but don't compare a DIY job with a professional job. Take my word for it, when people are paying money they want the job to be professional. When a body lift leaves our shop it will (a) pass a Qld Transport Inspection, (b) look as if it came from the factory that way.
Although neoprene blocks (with anti-crush tubes) are allowed under Qld regulations, many Transport Inspectors won't approve the body lift as they don't know if the blocks are made out of some old boat rollers or whether they have anti-crush tubes inside. We ensure that our Customers do not have that trouble when they take it over the pits for inspection.
We extend the 'fuel filler hose' and fit a new 'fast fill breather' to ensure that there are no leaks down the track. I have known people to just move the hoses to the ends of the pipes and reclamp them - and get away with it - but it is not the proper way to do it. The clutch hose doesn't always need to be replaced - this is assessed at the time of the body lift - and we have had to replace a fair few.
We sell far more body blocks than we fit. If Customers can do it themselves and have the appropriate tools - or the help - then go for it. We are only too happy to advise Customers on the proper way to do the job and the proper procedure to get it approved in Queensland. If Customers take our advise then great - we've made some-one's day. If they choose to take short cuts or do it differently then thats fine also.
All the advise above is great if you are keen to do it yourself, but you can't compare a DIY job to a professional job for one main reason. What you would be happy with as a DIY job where you have saved a wad of cash is not necessarily what you would be happy with if you were parting with a wad of cash.
Best of luck.
Peter K.
Redland 4WD & Diesel Gas
We've performed #$%&loads of body lifts on GQ Patrols. What you would get away with doing yourself is quite different in many cases to getting it done professionally. The cooling system will always work best when the fan shroud 'shrouds' the fan, thereby preventing the fan from drawing air from behind the fan to in front of the fan. It needs to draw the air through the radiator like it is suppose to. It is easy to drop the radiator and produces the best result - so we do it.
If you are doing your own work then you will be happy with your end result - but don't compare a DIY job with a professional job. Take my word for it, when people are paying money they want the job to be professional. When a body lift leaves our shop it will (a) pass a Qld Transport Inspection, (b) look as if it came from the factory that way.
Although neoprene blocks (with anti-crush tubes) are allowed under Qld regulations, many Transport Inspectors won't approve the body lift as they don't know if the blocks are made out of some old boat rollers or whether they have anti-crush tubes inside. We ensure that our Customers do not have that trouble when they take it over the pits for inspection.
We extend the 'fuel filler hose' and fit a new 'fast fill breather' to ensure that there are no leaks down the track. I have known people to just move the hoses to the ends of the pipes and reclamp them - and get away with it - but it is not the proper way to do it. The clutch hose doesn't always need to be replaced - this is assessed at the time of the body lift - and we have had to replace a fair few.
We sell far more body blocks than we fit. If Customers can do it themselves and have the appropriate tools - or the help - then go for it. We are only too happy to advise Customers on the proper way to do the job and the proper procedure to get it approved in Queensland. If Customers take our advise then great - we've made some-one's day. If they choose to take short cuts or do it differently then thats fine also.
All the advise above is great if you are keen to do it yourself, but you can't compare a DIY job to a professional job for one main reason. What you would be happy with as a DIY job where you have saved a wad of cash is not necessarily what you would be happy with if you were parting with a wad of cash.
Best of luck.
Peter K.
Redland 4WD & Diesel Gas
and there's so many gqs that have been DIY lifted without any problems. alll of the possible other mods required are basic to do yourself, don't let a professional salesman sway you. it is one of the most basic mods you can do yourself without any major probs. yes there are some other things that may need to be altered afterwards but again, they're so easy to do. there's heaps of links and people on here who will be able to point you in the right direction. good luck.
88 td42 gq. 2" body & 3" OME, 36" beadlocked 'pedes, ARB winch bar mod'd for body lift, rear locker.....
Re: boby lift fitters
is it lifted suspension wise also ?? coils ?robjohno wrote:hey I'm thinking of getting a 2"-3" body lift for my 88 swb safari. ya guys know anyone who fits it all around south side Brisbane?
cheers
just a little left of insanity :)
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests