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piranha super loom kit in 80 wont work
Moderator: -Scott-
piranha super loom kit in 80 wont work
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i have the super loom kit in my 80 and can only get the circuit connector light to come on on high beam only, also have ipf spotties which are wired to the high beams, ive been told that the 80 runs negitive power and i need to run 2 extra wires for every thing to work properly does any one know where i have to run these 2 wires from and too as the circuit connector is surpose to come on in low beam only any help would be great
i have the super loom kit in my 80 and can only get the circuit connector light to come on on high beam only, also have ipf spotties which are wired to the high beams, ive been told that the 80 runs negitive power and i need to run 2 extra wires for every thing to work properly does any one know where i have to run these 2 wires from and too as the circuit connector is surpose to come on in low beam only any help would be great
all toyotas i've had (hilux, MWB and 80) used negative switching for light circuits, prob everything else too. just means that 12V is run to one side of the globe (common if it is a low/high globe) and then the other side is switched to ground to turn it on
as piranha have sorted it for you this is probably useless info
as piranha have sorted it for you this is probably useless info
icrawl, just wondering if you have noticed improvement in the lights after fitting this kit? Also, have you already got good reflectors in there, and which globes are you using?
I'm considering getting this type of kit in the future if its worth the money.
Thanks
I'm considering getting this type of kit in the future if its worth the money.
Thanks
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
If you want better light from your 80 series (even 60 series) give the super loom a go!!
We've had them in the two 60series we owned and now fitted them to two out of three 80 series in the family, soon to be three.
The difference by using the super loom is that the headlights do actually get 12volts (or more) deivered to them, not the 9 to 11 volts max supplied through the standard loom.
We run the Phillips Vision Plus globes in the standard reflectors with good results. For a better reflector, try IPF.
If you use a higher wattage globe in the 80series you may reduce the life span of the globe as the reflector housing holds the generated heat too much. Another way around this if headlight protectors are used is to drill a series of small holes in them for air flow across the light area (only good for whilst you are moving).
Hope this is useful.
We've had them in the two 60series we owned and now fitted them to two out of three 80 series in the family, soon to be three.
The difference by using the super loom is that the headlights do actually get 12volts (or more) deivered to them, not the 9 to 11 volts max supplied through the standard loom.
We run the Phillips Vision Plus globes in the standard reflectors with good results. For a better reflector, try IPF.
If you use a higher wattage globe in the 80series you may reduce the life span of the globe as the reflector housing holds the generated heat too much. Another way around this if headlight protectors are used is to drill a series of small holes in them for air flow across the light area (only good for whilst you are moving).
Hope this is useful.
I've replaced the reflectors with narva's and it came complete with globes. This helped considerably and the light it now much better than it was. I will be looking into the super loom sometime soon. When I first installed the narva's, I checked for voltage drop. With the lights on, I used a multimeter at the battery to check voltage, then at the globe and only found it was 0.2 volts difference. This was with the engine running and the headlights on. Only thing I didn't do is check the negative side and I probably should have done this as this is where I should find the difference, being a neg switched system. But going by your good experiences with a handful of vehicles, that speaks for itself.coights 40th wrote:If you want better light from your 80 series (even 60 series) give the super loom a go!!
The difference by using the super loom is that the headlights do actually get 12volts (or more) deivered to them, not the 9 to 11 volts max supplied through the standard loom.
We run the Phillips Vision Plus globes in the standard reflectors with good results. For a better reflector, try IPF.
Thanks for the advice.
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
The physical way I used of telling the difference in the light improvement was to unplug the circuit completer and plug the factory plug back on the headlight. This then allows you to see the difference between the superloom powered and factory wiring powered light.
I found the factory powered light to be slightly yellow in appearance to the much whiter light from the superloom light (using same globes type of course).
If you want to see how much of an improvement a superloom will make to your lights without the expense and are good with auto electrics, try unplugging one headlight (preferably one of the inner headlights on an 80series for high beam) and make up a temporary relay setup to run the light from (simular to a driving light setup). Supply its power directly from the battery, make sure you use a decent size wire (4 to 6 mm at least) and fuse the supply just in case, don't forget an earth as well. Now check the difference in light output as above (noting that the standard light might have both beams activated if using the outer light) and then remove back to standard (this is not to be a permanent fitment!!)
For easy pick up of switch power to run driving lights it is recommended to use the power supply from the superloom relay block wire to the headlight. This wire shows +12volt. **Note: The super loom relays are negative switched, but then supply positive power to the lights.**
To answer a question in the first post of this thread, the circuit completer is only on when the highbeams are activated. Its purpose is to supply a nominated load (unsure of requirement) to swich the factory low beam relay off (there is a 1 second delay in mine). Without the circuit completer the low beams will remain on when highbeam is selected and your globes will burnout very quickly.
I found the factory powered light to be slightly yellow in appearance to the much whiter light from the superloom light (using same globes type of course).
If you want to see how much of an improvement a superloom will make to your lights without the expense and are good with auto electrics, try unplugging one headlight (preferably one of the inner headlights on an 80series for high beam) and make up a temporary relay setup to run the light from (simular to a driving light setup). Supply its power directly from the battery, make sure you use a decent size wire (4 to 6 mm at least) and fuse the supply just in case, don't forget an earth as well. Now check the difference in light output as above (noting that the standard light might have both beams activated if using the outer light) and then remove back to standard (this is not to be a permanent fitment!!)
For easy pick up of switch power to run driving lights it is recommended to use the power supply from the superloom relay block wire to the headlight. This wire shows +12volt. **Note: The super loom relays are negative switched, but then supply positive power to the lights.**
To answer a question in the first post of this thread, the circuit completer is only on when the highbeams are activated. Its purpose is to supply a nominated load (unsure of requirement) to swich the factory low beam relay off (there is a 1 second delay in mine). Without the circuit completer the low beams will remain on when highbeam is selected and your globes will burnout very quickly.
not to sure what the circuit completer is/does, but found when i built mine i had to use a resistor & diode to get high beam to work properly. pretty simple and cheap too. circuit diagrams can be found on the net
for the sense inputs i made a h4 connector (female) but with some male connectors soldered in and then trimmed. this then is plugged into the vehicle loom instead of a light. wires go back to my relay/fuse box and then back out through thicker wire to the lights
for the sense inputs i made a h4 connector (female) but with some male connectors soldered in and then trimmed. this then is plugged into the vehicle loom instead of a light. wires go back to my relay/fuse box and then back out through thicker wire to the lights
Yep, that will do it Bluey!!
As I said, the only purpose of the circuit completer is to supply a load/resistance to the factory loom, so that it switches the low beam off when you have activated the high beams. Of course it only has to go on the one side as the other is loaded by the relay block for the superloom.
As I said, the only purpose of the circuit completer is to supply a load/resistance to the factory loom, so that it switches the low beam off when you have activated the high beams. Of course it only has to go on the one side as the other is loaded by the relay block for the superloom.
while we are on it, does the dash light high beam (blue light on dash when high beams are on) get its pickup from one side of the headlights?
i put a hid kit in mine and it takes a pickup from one of the headlight 3 pin plugs. i hooked it up to the lhs plug, the rhs plug is unused.
now i notice my high beam light on the dash doesnt work. but im not entirely sure it did before the conversion..
i was going to plug a globe into the rhs plug that is unused to see if it connects the circut and makes the dash light work but im unsure if i should do this with the hid kit plugged into the lhs plug..
cheers mark.
i put a hid kit in mine and it takes a pickup from one of the headlight 3 pin plugs. i hooked it up to the lhs plug, the rhs plug is unused.
now i notice my high beam light on the dash doesnt work. but im not entirely sure it did before the conversion..
i was going to plug a globe into the rhs plug that is unused to see if it connects the circut and makes the dash light work but im unsure if i should do this with the hid kit plugged into the lhs plug..
cheers mark.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
Plug a 55/60W H4 in just for the test - for the few seconds it takes to see if the dash light works, it won't be a problem.mud4b wrote:i was going to plug a globe into the rhs plug that is unused to see if it connects the circut and makes the dash light work but im unsure if i should do this with the hid kit plugged into the lhs plug..
cheers mark.
I'm 90% sure there is a trick to making the dash lights work after some conversions - but the details escape me.
-Scott- wrote:Plug a 55/60W H4 in just for the test - for the few seconds it takes to see if the dash light works, it won't be a problem.mud4b wrote:i was going to plug a globe into the rhs plug that is unused to see if it connects the circut and makes the dash light work but im unsure if i should do this with the hid kit plugged into the lhs plug..
cheers mark.
I'm 90% sure there is a trick to making the dash lights work after some conversions - but the details escape me.
cheers man
will give it a go tomorrow.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
coights 40th wrote:Yeah, you should be able to just plug a h4 globe into the other loom plug to load it up and check.
I take it that the HID conversion gets its power straight from the battery and the standard loom plug is only used for switching purposes, like a superloom setup.
yeah bud that is how it is run.
cheers mark
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
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