Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
jinmy now 1.6 efi
jinmy now 1.6 efi
just wondering has anyone done this as id like to do it to mine found a set of pistions at suzisport imm over size but will lower te compression but not shure if the donk will handel it thanks matt
Last edited by cut 4B on Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:54 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: turbo jinmy
[quote="cut 4B"]just wondering has anyone done this as id like to do it to mine found a set of pistions at suzisport 1mm over size but will lower te compression but not shure if the donk will handel it thanks matt[/quote]
my guess is If its gunna last yes but probably not g13bb doesn't have the strongest bottom end in the business, don't you have one of these motors with a blown bottom end? But its a neat job,
one thing though if a subaru engine doesn't have enough puff to blow out the lag what chances has this engine have? maybe a smaller turbo may be more effective, not that I've ever been down the blowdrier path before.
one thing though if a subaru engine doesn't have enough puff to blow out the lag what chances has this engine have? maybe a smaller turbo may be more effective, not that I've ever been down the blowdrier path before.
I don't think this is the right sort of forum to be discussing thatMightyMouse wrote:
What's "doing it right" cj ?
As you well know there are plenty of low boost/high compression turbo applications so lowering the comp ratio isn't an automatic requirement for building a turbo setup. There are also plenty of dodgy home builds out there too where shortcuts are taken and failure is the likely outcome.
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
1600 motor would be the go be the first in oz!
g13bb is the same gearbox pattern as 1.3 sierra so with one of bens adapters and some playing around with vitara or a late model baleno motor would be the go, swap the heads use jimny (headgasket up baleno block,pistons, crank etc than see what you need to do with the oil pick up and use jimny sump.
www.dgtuning.com
look for 1600 engine conversion, these guys have used a 2wd vitara gearbox instead of an adapter plate for some reason.
g13bb is the same gearbox pattern as 1.3 sierra so with one of bens adapters and some playing around with vitara or a late model baleno motor would be the go, swap the heads use jimny (headgasket up baleno block,pistons, crank etc than see what you need to do with the oil pick up and use jimny sump.
www.dgtuning.com
look for 1600 engine conversion, these guys have used a 2wd vitara gearbox instead of an adapter plate for some reason.
1600 has been done about 3years ago i think .
mine stock g13bb makes 64.6 rwhp with 215/75r15's
i like that turbo setup
(tidy airbox, washer bottle ,overflow relocation)
top mount coolers are a double edge sword,
good because its out of the way of rocks, sticks etc,short pipework less lag.
bad because they become interheaters in low range & traffic not enough airflow to cool even with fans mounted to them(massive intake air temps not good)
all the eng bay heat goes up & through the cooler heating up the air.
the scoop lets water into the engine bay straight on the coils in the rain & crossing deep water.(missfires shorts etc)not always, but its a pain when you have to remove the cooler to dry everything out when its becomes wet & its raining on you.
when i get some time there is a little subaru turbo,flanges,some cast mandrels & a renault megane sport intercooler under my bench waiting.
was thinking of using an emanage to control it.will see when the time comes.
want to keep it simple stock coils maybe an injecter upgrade will see what the stock ones flow like ?
but need to finish the seemingly neverending line of VE commodores booked in for mods at the moment
cheers Drew
mine stock g13bb makes 64.6 rwhp with 215/75r15's
i like that turbo setup
(tidy airbox, washer bottle ,overflow relocation)
top mount coolers are a double edge sword,
good because its out of the way of rocks, sticks etc,short pipework less lag.
bad because they become interheaters in low range & traffic not enough airflow to cool even with fans mounted to them(massive intake air temps not good)
all the eng bay heat goes up & through the cooler heating up the air.
the scoop lets water into the engine bay straight on the coils in the rain & crossing deep water.(missfires shorts etc)not always, but its a pain when you have to remove the cooler to dry everything out when its becomes wet & its raining on you.
when i get some time there is a little subaru turbo,flanges,some cast mandrels & a renault megane sport intercooler under my bench waiting.
was thinking of using an emanage to control it.will see when the time comes.
want to keep it simple stock coils maybe an injecter upgrade will see what the stock ones flow like ?
but need to finish the seemingly neverending line of VE commodores booked in for mods at the moment
cheers Drew
That's an impressive Jimny for sure, it seems to have all the hardware, but the point still stands, A jimny motor is not especially strong or over engineered so decompressed or not, it would require very careful tuning to hold together well.
(Although the talk of WRX TDO4's worry me a bit - I think i'd rather see a turbo designed for a 1.3 like a toyota CT9 rather than a turbo that easily flows 160kw on a 2.0 litre, especially if it's going into an off road car)
Turbo conversions all seem to focus on the hardware - manifolds, turbo, intercooler. Obviously, this is where the bling is and the stuff that photographs well in build threads, but it's not the make or break of a turbo conversion.
Properly tuning an engine like this to have acceptable drivability off road, cope with heavy low range use on hot days, not overheat, detonate, etc etc etc is the key to a successful conversion and I'd say that very very few ever get it right. I'd wager that there is maybe twice the money in dyno time getting aftermarket management right than there is in the hardware of ANY turbo conversion if you wanted it to behave properly, start nicely from cold, and take boost on a 40 deg day with 1/2 the radiator full of mud.
90% of workshops that fit aftermarket computers are providing what their customers are after - big KW numbers. Most of these motors are factory turbo motors that have lower compression and better components to resist detonation, so what the workshop is doing is eating into the safety margin that the factory built into the engine to cover for tuning inadeqacies, and sure they make KW, but often at the expense of drivability when at partial throttle.
A Jimny motor just doesn't have any safety margin. they're not designed for any boost and whilst maybe 5-6 psi could be run with good management and cooling, the small boost in power this would provide would be very disappointing for the $$$. Although this might be much more cheaply achieved with supercharging.
No, I'd have to say starting with a Baleno 1.6 bottom end, using a BenT adapter or similar and bolting on the jimny head and injection would make for a more usable motor and cost a fraction of the $$$. No bling though.
If you want a boosted motor, start with a motor built for boost like a 4AGZE. A GZE is miles stronger in the bottom end than a 4AGE 20V, but both motors make about the same KW. Toyota figured out that to have reliabiity with boost, you need a strong bottom end, and that's two motors with the same KW!
Sorry I'll hop off the soapbox now.
Steve.
(Although the talk of WRX TDO4's worry me a bit - I think i'd rather see a turbo designed for a 1.3 like a toyota CT9 rather than a turbo that easily flows 160kw on a 2.0 litre, especially if it's going into an off road car)
Turbo conversions all seem to focus on the hardware - manifolds, turbo, intercooler. Obviously, this is where the bling is and the stuff that photographs well in build threads, but it's not the make or break of a turbo conversion.
Properly tuning an engine like this to have acceptable drivability off road, cope with heavy low range use on hot days, not overheat, detonate, etc etc etc is the key to a successful conversion and I'd say that very very few ever get it right. I'd wager that there is maybe twice the money in dyno time getting aftermarket management right than there is in the hardware of ANY turbo conversion if you wanted it to behave properly, start nicely from cold, and take boost on a 40 deg day with 1/2 the radiator full of mud.
90% of workshops that fit aftermarket computers are providing what their customers are after - big KW numbers. Most of these motors are factory turbo motors that have lower compression and better components to resist detonation, so what the workshop is doing is eating into the safety margin that the factory built into the engine to cover for tuning inadeqacies, and sure they make KW, but often at the expense of drivability when at partial throttle.
A Jimny motor just doesn't have any safety margin. they're not designed for any boost and whilst maybe 5-6 psi could be run with good management and cooling, the small boost in power this would provide would be very disappointing for the $$$. Although this might be much more cheaply achieved with supercharging.
No, I'd have to say starting with a Baleno 1.6 bottom end, using a BenT adapter or similar and bolting on the jimny head and injection would make for a more usable motor and cost a fraction of the $$$. No bling though.
If you want a boosted motor, start with a motor built for boost like a 4AGZE. A GZE is miles stronger in the bottom end than a 4AGE 20V, but both motors make about the same KW. Toyota figured out that to have reliabiity with boost, you need a strong bottom end, and that's two motors with the same KW!
Sorry I'll hop off the soapbox now.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
isnt the injection and top end from the baleno and the jimny near identical? making the baleno/jimny motor the same as the baleno conversion??
cut4b what your talking about doing is very similar to what i will be puting in my new car. i'm using muti point vitara bottom end, jimny head and injection and a wrx turbine with a small cooler. we'll see how it goes, i wont be running much boost because i'll be chasing reliability maybe around 5 psi
jason
cut4b what your talking about doing is very similar to what i will be puting in my new car. i'm using muti point vitara bottom end, jimny head and injection and a wrx turbine with a small cooler. we'll see how it goes, i wont be running much boost because i'll be chasing reliability maybe around 5 psi
jason
WANTED: swb vitara rear seat. the 3 seater bench type
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
jimny was done in wa by suzishop same bellhousing setup as 1600 to sierra,
they used the jimny head & injection on a efi 16v 1.6 bottom end with 1.6 vit injectors stock jimny ecu ,apparently it was a goer but i don't know if mixtures had been checked on a dyno or not.
yes most workshops consentrate on numbers rather than drivability,but that is what sorts the good from the bad.
we recommend drivable combo's with plenty of torque rather than peaky screamers for most people because most people drive in the midrange most of the time rather than on the dinger.
& spend the time tuning for drivability & economy.
power takes minutes to tune manners & longevity takes hours & road time with owner driving as well .you need to tune to suit some peoples driving style.
just finished a blown gen 3 stroker for a customer only 360odd rwkws but over 700nm of torque from 1800rpm peaking at 840nm with over 700nm at the limiter idles like stock a/c works properly, drives as standard till you boot it then hang on.
the subi turb i have is smaller than the rexy one
as far as i have been told the g13bb crank & rods are the same as gti, can anyone confirm this ?? plenty of them turboed
i have to agree steve the 1.6 baleno bottom end is a good idea
but think cut4b wanted to use the motor he needed to rebuild anyway & had access to lower comp pistons.
gze & 20v of the same series (for example ae92 gze & 20v) run the same bottom end except for pistons for which the gze ones are the stronger but same rods,oil squirters etc
they used the jimny head & injection on a efi 16v 1.6 bottom end with 1.6 vit injectors stock jimny ecu ,apparently it was a goer but i don't know if mixtures had been checked on a dyno or not.
yes most workshops consentrate on numbers rather than drivability,but that is what sorts the good from the bad.
we recommend drivable combo's with plenty of torque rather than peaky screamers for most people because most people drive in the midrange most of the time rather than on the dinger.
& spend the time tuning for drivability & economy.
power takes minutes to tune manners & longevity takes hours & road time with owner driving as well .you need to tune to suit some peoples driving style.
just finished a blown gen 3 stroker for a customer only 360odd rwkws but over 700nm of torque from 1800rpm peaking at 840nm with over 700nm at the limiter idles like stock a/c works properly, drives as standard till you boot it then hang on.
the subi turb i have is smaller than the rexy one
as far as i have been told the g13bb crank & rods are the same as gti, can anyone confirm this ?? plenty of them turboed
i have to agree steve the 1.6 baleno bottom end is a good idea
but think cut4b wanted to use the motor he needed to rebuild anyway & had access to lower comp pistons.
gze & 20v of the same series (for example ae92 gze & 20v) run the same bottom end except for pistons for which the gze ones are the stronger but same rods,oil squirters etc
Matt the 1.6 will provide mainly more torque down low where the g13bb really lacks worse than g13a/b you will get better power as well all in all better drivabilty on and off road keeping it simple will keep it realiable like i was saying,jimny head, intake injectors senors etc and sump vitara block, you could adjust the fuel pressure t increase fuel if needed.
I used a 1.3 carb, head etc on a g16b block and it went great no flat spots or funny stuff it didn't need more fuel to work. It may have put more power out with a bigger carb but it probably would have started many more problems too.
even though drew says it been done before I would say things like engine mount positions alt brackets etc may be items you will need to deal with and is there enough room does it need a body lift?
I used a 1.3 carb, head etc on a g16b block and it went great no flat spots or funny stuff it didn't need more fuel to work. It may have put more power out with a bigger carb but it probably would have started many more problems too.
even though drew says it been done before I would say things like engine mount positions alt brackets etc may be items you will need to deal with and is there enough room does it need a body lift?
havent found to much info on the 1,6 bottom end set up the pistons for the 1.3 im thinking of using lower the comp to around 8.5 1 been looking around for a smaller turbo ill keep u posted on what i find . got a rr fuel reg today and a small cooler the motor is coming out on the weekend to start the rebuild y the car is off getting painted .
gman79au wrote:you can't count an unfinished projects thats like saying you've done something but really it was just gonna do something.
yes i can, the conversion was finished and the car driving, it needed a tray and a paint. so it was going.
but finished or unfinished i done the conversion so it has been done before.
cheers mark
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests