could someone please explain the proceedure for adjusting the fuel pump on a 2H 60 series. Just fitted a turbo kit and of course now need to get the temps right. I have fitted a pyro and the max temp currently is 425deg celcius in the 3" dump pipe 500 should be safe.
IE: which screw (I think its the two 12mm nuts on the bottom LH firewall side of the pump).
If so how to adjust them. I assume you unlock the long one and adjust the inner, smaller, nut in or out for more or less fuel then lock off the long one again. If so is out more or less fuel. Sorry I know it seems stupid that I can put on a turbo but I can't adjust the fuel. I just want to be sure. Having just deffected from nissan I can say Ivé not really worked on toyotas much.
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fuel adjustment on 2H
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fuel adjustment on 2H
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
2h
Anyone??? surelly someone knows 
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
check out the diesel section on the www.ih8mud.com forum. there HAS to be a post of that somewhere with pics (im not 100% sure cos i dont look for 2h stuff).. but they have HEAPS of info that will help you out with this as its a regularly asked question..
woo
..
from
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php? ... adjustment
not sure which way it turns but im sure you'll notice if its the right or wrong way pretty quickly.. just make sure its a small adjustment.
..from
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php? ... adjustment
not sure which way it turns but im sure you'll notice if its the right or wrong way pretty quickly.. just make sure its a small adjustment.
Thanks shorty.. Do you know then what the other wired up adjuster does?? the one in the pic bellow your arrows shaft.shorty_f0rty wrote:woo
from
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php? ... adjustment
not sure which way it turns but im sure you'll notice if its the right or wrong way pretty quickly.. just make sure its a small adjustment.
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
nah no idea sorry.. but you might find a 2h manual in one of the links here...
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=184462
there used to be a html version of the manual on line but i think thats long gone (was at birfield.com) all thats around are huge pdfs..
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=184462
there used to be a html version of the manual on line but i think thats long gone (was at birfield.com) all thats around are huge pdfs..
yellow arow is the fuel adjustment screw
dont bother touching anything else, theres nothing else you can do without opullibng the pump to bits.
Cant remember which way to turn it, but if you have a look at what the adjuster nut actually does, it adjusts the "at rest" position of the swinging arm from the EDIC.
Pulled back toward the firewall(compresses the spring loaded tip on the adjustment screw) is engine stall, pushed away from firewall is over-fuel (for starting engine).
So for more fuel youl want to move the arm away from firewall.
Small changes is the key here. 1/4 turns.
Top move the adjuster screw you need to loosen the locking nut first. This is the tricky part. You can either buy the tool from toyota($$$$$), use a punch+hammer(dodgy) or make the three-prong tool. I chose to make a tool up.
i just used a bit of 6mm flatbar, measured the PCD of the three pins in the locking ring, drilled and tapped the PCD on the bar, used some small allen head bolts and then drilled the centre out to allow the screwdriver to go through while the locking tool is still on.
Would be better to just braze in some pins, but i didnt have any hardened steel to use as pins, everything i had just bent. So some hardened allen head bolts were the go.
dont bother touching anything else, theres nothing else you can do without opullibng the pump to bits.
Cant remember which way to turn it, but if you have a look at what the adjuster nut actually does, it adjusts the "at rest" position of the swinging arm from the EDIC.
Pulled back toward the firewall(compresses the spring loaded tip on the adjustment screw) is engine stall, pushed away from firewall is over-fuel (for starting engine).
So for more fuel youl want to move the arm away from firewall.
Small changes is the key here. 1/4 turns.
Top move the adjuster screw you need to loosen the locking nut first. This is the tricky part. You can either buy the tool from toyota($$$$$), use a punch+hammer(dodgy) or make the three-prong tool. I chose to make a tool up.
i just used a bit of 6mm flatbar, measured the PCD of the three pins in the locking ring, drilled and tapped the PCD on the bar, used some small allen head bolts and then drilled the centre out to allow the screwdriver to go through while the locking tool is still on.
Would be better to just braze in some pins, but i didnt have any hardened steel to use as pins, everything i had just bent. So some hardened allen head bolts were the go.
I made my tool from 4mm flat bar and used a drill bit shank for the pins, brazed in.
I usually take off the stupid nut and put on a regular nut, I think it's M10 or M12, don't remember.
work in half or 1/3 turns, it's not as sensitive as the VE pumps adjusters.
I usually take off the stupid nut and put on a regular nut, I think it's M10 or M12, don't remember.
work in half or 1/3 turns, it's not as sensitive as the VE pumps adjusters.
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