front tow hook fitted/now with better backing plate thingy

[christover1]

Not exactly a high tech post, but due to a lack of places to fit a recovery point on the front of a zook, I thought peoples may be interested in my solution. Obviously there is other ways, but this was easiest for me.

It uses the existing hole for the front bar mount, and 1 new hole.
By cutting down the body mount part of the crossmember at an angle, it leaves enuff room for the hook. There is just enuff room under the cross member inside the chassis rail, to get the nut through and onto its bolt.
There is a crush tube in the chassis for the bar bolt, effectively making the hook 3 point mounted. I slipped a small plate of metal to sandwich the chassis rail, seemed a good idea.

I am going to check the shackle clearance tomorrow, but I think I've left enuff room.

I believe there is enuff strength left in the body mount, but you could easily weld it up, if ya got a welder.

christover

[nicbeer]

Nice. i will have to look at that on mine as i got a ARB bar as well mounted there.

cheers

[christover1]

Nice. i will have to look at that on mine as i got a ARB bar as well mounted there.

cheers

I thought ARB bars had safe recovery points, I guess they don't.

It only works for me cos I've cut most of the bar work off.

christover

[christover1]

BTW it's only there to help others out, I never get stuck



well maybe sometimes, my last 2 tow points have busted off, thought it was time to buy a decent one.

christover

[nicbeer]

only tow points. I would not use it to snatch off.

cheers

[christover1]

I wasn't happy with my hook bolts backing plate, so I made another today. It continues up behind the crossmember, therefore spreading load better. In my humble opinion anyway. I made it out of 5mm plate, and a bit thicker than before, and I made it just the right width to match the chassis opening, so you can lie it flat, slide it in, then flip it up behind the internal crossmember bit. My painting skills aren't good, so I photochopped out the dribbles and the rough cuts
christover

[alien]

Christover - you got one on the other side so you can spread the load of a snatch? My only concern with that is twisting the chassis through constant ripping on one side...

[sierrajim]

If you're worried about the chassis bending maybe laminate it with some plate inside and out.

[christover1]

Christover - you got one on the other side so you can spread the load of a snatch? My only concern with that is twisting the chassis through constant ripping on one side...

I have given this some thought in the past, and came up with no decision
I figure a zook is light enough not to worry, anyway, and a straight pull is very rare, so I guess the forces at work would rarely be direct.
I never liked the centre position of the original zook one, as I reckon it could bend the crossmember and pull the chassis rails in.
A hook on both sides is probably good for other reasons, too, like sometimes ya recovery point is buried in mud, water, slime etc.
In the fitting of this, I have taken into account both the sideways stresses as well as the straight on pull, hence the 3 mounting positions, and the plate design. I'm a cheap bugger, and doubt I'll get round to another hook, as too many things on the list b4 that
good idea tho
christover

[christover1]

If you're worried about the chassis bending maybe laminate it with some plate inside and out.

I don't think there is anything straight on Frog anyway but the backing plate will be enough I think/hope
christover

[sierrajim]

Have you thought of sleaving the front tube crossmember with heavier wall tube inside the factory tube?

Easy and cheap

[nicbeer]

Is this just running a thicker tube through the existing tube? Does this need to be welded at each end or will bolt on be enough at each end.

What thickness is recomended

cheers

[derelict_frog]

Mine are bolted onto the same spot but on the inside of the chassis rails instead of the outside.

[christover1]

Have you thought of sleaving the front tube crossmember with heavier wall tube inside the factory tube?

Easy and cheap

If it looks like becoming a problem I will, but have been snatched off the original centre one fer years, and no bending, just broke the mount off.
easy n cheap, that's me in a nutshell

[christover1]

Mine are bolted onto the same spot but on the inside of the chassis rails instead of the outside.

I gave that idea some thought, but bending down to reach under things is getting more difficult.. I can reverse the hook, tho, if I don't want it sticking out so much.

[sierrajim]

Is this just running a thicker tube through the existing tube? Does this need to be welded at each end or will bolt on be enough at each end.

What thickness is recomended

cheers

Thats 100% spot on.

Just buy a length of tube, outside diameter the same as the existing cross members inside diameter, slide it inside and weld in place. Could be bolted but would reccomend welding.

[nicbeer]

Kool,

What sidewall is good to use.

3-4mm enough?

cheers

[christover1]

thread grave digged for a current question, and reinsertion of pix

[zookjedi]

Kool,

What sidewall is good to use.

3-4mm enough?

cheers

32nb (3.2mm thick goes in real good ) i did this to both front and rear on mine for extra strength for my recovery points

[Jaffa]

Christover, if you still have the pics can you r e p o s t them, from memory (of the pics) I think I have the same type of hook as you that I want to mount up, but I want to see what you did to make it clear the front crossmember.

Thanks
Brendan

[christover1]