TD42 Questions

[swbpatrol]

Gooda
I heard a few guys tossing the pre cleaner filter on their TD42. Im thinkin of scrapping it and getting an aftermarket air filter to the replace the main filter. Just wondering if it will be as effective or will it let in all bulldust and crap from the Kalgoorlie Roads????? Also i have just chucked in a TD42 into my shorty. I had a TB42 in it will i need new springs or are the engines the same weight. One other quick question, i have not gave it heaps yet but i have heard the TD42 run hot is it worth running some thermo fans or a aluminium radiator????

[bogged]

Gooda
I heard a few guys tossing the pre cleaner filter on their TD42. Im thinkin of scrapping it and getting an aftermarket air filter to the replace the main filter. Just wondering if it will be as effective or will it let in all bulldust and crap from the Kalgoorlie Roads????? Also i have just chucked in a TD42 into my shorty. I had a TB42 in it will i need new springs or are the engines the same weight. One other quick question, i have not gave it heaps yet but i have heard the TD42 run hot is it worth running some thermo fans or a aluminium radiator????

If you go to VERY dusty places, the precleaner is a good idea. I scrapped mine, got some 90mm (I think) flexy stuff from Purple Pig, $20 for enough to do 2 cars, and it works. Not much difference I dont think.

Themos you use EA Falcon setup, with shrouds, and mod it to fit, but they dont last in mud and crap. Stock TD42s are ok on cooling. Put a snail on them, then you have to pick up your game.

Ally radiator, ok if you can afford one, you can try those Desert Racer ones.

Why not try the car as is first, you may not need to change anything.

[Area54]

I would keep the precleaner, especially if you do heaps of dirt, youd be surprised how much this saves the main element. I use a K & N for the precleaner, with a stocking (from the missus) over the element to keep the bugs and big crap from clogging the fins. Extends the service time for the precleaner, and quick as to change over. Have a Finer filter as the main, prolly lose a bit of power, but who cares, it's a driesel, not after power, just longevity.

Won't need different springs, essentially the same motor (block and head etc)

Cooling is not really a problem with the TD42, some model patrols did have a smaller radiator in them from the factory, these did have cooling problems, but was easily fixed by putting in the 4 core from the upspec models, (prolly wouldn't go with an exotic aluminium radiator in a bush vehicle - a bitch to repair) just put the motor in and take it from there.

[awill4x4]

There is nothing wrong with using alloy radiators they are pretty tough when built properly. Nearly every new 4x4 and car radiator made today are alloy, they have plastic tanks though and this is where the problems usually start. They are also much more efficient than brass/copper radiators.
I've finally got around to finishing my GQ custom alloy radiator it should be in the car in 2 weeks. This weekend I'm getting the block/heater core power flushed and then tested for stray current before putting in the new aluminium one.
It uses the same core the supercars use which is 2 rows of tubes and a core thickness of 57mm. The capacity is double that of the standard radiator. I have also added 2 extra temp senders (1 inlet & 1 outlet) so I can get some accurate differential temp testing of water temp into rad and out of rad. My GQ being auto, it also has 2 brand new auto coolers installed in the tanks as well as an external one as well.
Regards Andrew.

[bogged]

Im Jealous...

There is nothing wrong with using alloy radiators they are pretty tough when built properly. Nearly every new 4x4 and car radiator made today are alloy, they have plastic tanks though and this is where the problems usually start. They are also much more efficient than brass/copper radiators.
I've finally got around to finishing my GQ custom alloy radiator it should be in the car in 2 weeks. This weekend I'm getting the block/heater core power flushed and then tested for stray current before putting in the new aluminium one.
It uses the same core the supercars use which is 2 rows of tubes and a core thickness of 57mm. The capacity is double that of the standard radiator. I have also added 2 extra temp senders (1 inlet & 1 outlet) so I can get some accurate differential temp testing of water temp into rad and out of rad. My GQ being auto, it also has 2 brand new auto coolers installed in the tanks as well as an external one as well.
Regards Andrew.

[bazzle]

Looks good AW.

Can you still flush mud out easily from fins?

Bazzle

[Area54]

Like I said, I would stick to the tried and tested copper core radiator on a working country vehicle. Although all modern cars and new 4x4s do have ally radiators, we all know that modern 4x4s have gone softer over the years and questions will be asked about their long term reliability, especially if used in harsher environments every day. A lot easier to effect a lasting bush repair on a copper radiator than an exotic alum core with plastic tanks and seals.

Fair enough if you are going a full comp rig, then fit it out. But for a regular rig, keeping it reliable is at the top of the list, especially in the outback. TD42s (talking non turbo here) only run hot if the fuel has been turned up on them - pretty common thing to do - and are running the 3 core radiator (unless of course the motor has some serious blockages/water pump failure)

[awill4x4]

Bazzle, I guess I'll find out about cleaning out the fins when I've had it in a while. That being said, I generally try to avoid mud like the plague. It gets into places it really shouldn't.
We miss you on the Yahoo patrol site Bazzle

Area 54, I've seen quite a few GQ patrol brass/copper failures where the side plates are curved around the the top header tanks and soldered. The solder breaks and they shake themselves to pieces.
I agree with you about the plastic tanks, they will either do a seal or eventually they get eroded by the hot water entering from the block.
My one doesn't have plastic ones though and it has an extra internal inlet diverter plate for water entering from the block.
In general though, their efficiency is much better. You only have to look at any new VY Commodore V6, their radiator is only 19mm thick and if everything is OK they never overheat.
This radiator has ended up a somewhat long term project and I'm a bit paranoid about stray current so I'm making sure it is well within correct tolerances before installing my new radiator.
Regards Andrew.

[Area54]

Bazzle, I guess I'll find out about cleaning out the fins when I've had it in a while. That being said, I generally try to avoid mud like the plague. It gets into places it really shouldn't.
We miss you on the Yahoo patrol site Bazzle

Area 54, I've seen quite a few GQ patrol brass/copper failures where the side plates are curved around the the top header tanks and soldered. The solder breaks and they shake themselves to pieces.
I agree with you about the plastic tanks, they will either do a seal or eventually they get eroded by the hot water entering from the block.
My one doesn't have plastic ones though and it has an extra internal inlet diverter plate for water entering from the block.
In general though, their efficiency is much better. You only have to look at any new VY Commodore V6, their radiator is only 19mm thick and if everything is OK they never overheat.
This radiator has ended up a somewhat long term project and I'm a bit paranoid about stray current so I'm making sure it is well within correct tolerances before installing my new radiator.
Regards Andrew.

Yeah I know what you mean, mine are going, but I've also had the same problem on my other rigs - (Camolux) was a pretty easy fix with common hand tools and a propane torch. One gripe I have about ally is the corrosion problem - the white crusty buildup that all fittings seem to get over the long term. I'm pretty meticulous with my service regimes, yet it still can be a problem - easy when its just external pipe fittings - a terminal problem if it became a radiator with thin wall tubing and narrow galleries. Obviously not a problem with the racers, as motors are prolly being pulled and coolant flushed/changed quite regularly (short service cycles), but in a fourby it has to do the full length of the service cycle (and even longer, most people dont worry about some things until they are too late) I guess time will tell.