Has anyone replaced their torsion bar adjusting bolts with high tensile bolts??
Was doing upper and lower control arm bushes on the weekend and have damaged both LHS and RHS bolts when taking the pressure off the suspension. Both bolts just got to a point where they didn't want to go any further. As a result I didn't crank the front as high as it was before (until I replace them).
On a brighter note:-
Diff lock (rear) was installed last week. Rear sway bar removed and new bushes in and working a lot better than before. Borrowed some 34" JT's from a mate and went bush.
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replacement of torsion bar adjusting bolts
Moderator: -Scott-
replacement of torsion bar adjusting bolts
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
You could try re-indexing the torsion bars by removing the mounts on the ends and rotating them further around if that makes sense. I did that a while ago so that when the car was at the height i wanted, the adjusting arms were tucked up so they didn't get damaged by anything. What was your reason for replacing the bushes in the control arms? I am having alot of creaking and noises coming from my front suspension, did you have those problems? How much did it cost to replace them?
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
I have to destroy the bolts to allow enough tension to release the bars to start with.
I should have new torsions soon, so I will have to destroys them anywho.
Replaced the front end bushes to track down that elusive clunk when offroad. Left hand upper control arm was knackered and pretty well seized (could be the creaking you get although mine was never noisey).
Total cost for the bushes was around $180 (and a Saturday of my time)
The new bushes eliminated most of the noise I was getting - until I put it through a deep puddle. Still have one clunk to get rid of. Rear trailing arms will be the next to get bushed but I still think the chasis mount is the likely source of the noise. Gunna weld a "washer" to the mount to reduce the hole size and give that a berl.
I should have new torsions soon, so I will have to destroys them anywho.
Replaced the front end bushes to track down that elusive clunk when offroad. Left hand upper control arm was knackered and pretty well seized (could be the creaking you get although mine was never noisey).
Total cost for the bushes was around $180 (and a Saturday of my time)
The new bushes eliminated most of the noise I was getting - until I put it through a deep puddle. Still have one clunk to get rid of. Rear trailing arms will be the next to get bushed but I still think the chasis mount is the likely source of the noise. Gunna weld a "washer" to the mount to reduce the hole size and give that a berl.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
That's a nice lookin shorty there Noisey 
The Jabber Trekkers make a big difference eh
I hope to see you out at Toolangi sometime so we can swap notes.
Did Mitsu supply the upper control arm bushes ??
I put in Pedders t/bars a while ago, no drama's as Mike says you can re-index the splines but you want the adjusting anchors at least level with the crossmember out of harms way.
Frank.
The Jabber Trekkers make a big difference eh
I hope to see you out at Toolangi sometime so we can swap notes.
Did Mitsu supply the upper control arm bushes ??
I put in Pedders t/bars a while ago, no drama's as Mike says you can re-index the splines but you want the adjusting anchors at least level with the crossmember out of harms way.
Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Yeah where did the bushes come from? I had pedders replace the rear trailing arm bushes few years ago now. I need to do a bit of a suspension overhaul, think i might go all out. Longer ranchos, pivoting trailing arms, longer rear brake line, all new front bushes and ranchos, custom front fold up swaybar and qr disconects. Anything else i need? Got the low profile bumpstops and balljoint spacers. Anyone interested in some near new pedders front shocks and adjustable koni rear shocks? What do you reckon frank?
mike.
mike.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
Both sets of bushes were supplied through Autobarn. Mitsu will only sell the upper control arms complete and wanted a few hundred $$$. The uppers were Mackay brand, around the $145 mark and the lowers were nolothane brand at $40 or so (both sets are nolothane). I believe the uppers are not listed in the catalogues but I will get the part numbers and post them.
One thing to watch if you are going to do the lower control arm - you will need a second set of bushes. One set is pressed into the arm, the other end is pressed into the chasis mount and is not part of the set. When I get the new torsions I will replace these aswell (supplied wrong torsions on the 13/08 and am still waiting for the replacements
)
Rides better and so far I have not heard that loud crack we all know so well - on or offroad.
One thing to watch if you are going to do the lower control arm - you will need a second set of bushes. One set is pressed into the arm, the other end is pressed into the chasis mount and is not part of the set. When I get the new torsions I will replace these aswell (supplied wrong torsions on the 13/08 and am still waiting for the replacements
)
Rides better and so far I have not heard that loud crack we all know so well - on or offroad.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Bitsamissin wrote:You know Mike after a 2" body lift there is plenty room to raise the top shock mounts (on the rear). Interesting that the leaf sprung early Jabbers have eyelet top shock mounts compared to the stud type like ours. Thinking what I'm thinking....................
Umm i tried to think what your thinking i think but all i could think about was naked beauties???? What were you thinking about? I need some help on this little project i think, it can be a prototype for yours frank.
mike.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
Yep both Aki's and the BigRun Dunk kits are 4 link. But Aki's only needs a 2" b/l for clearance the other kit requires 4" (too much IMHO).
For something simpler I was think of raising and converting the rear top shock mounts to the pin style to fit longer travel shocks in there.
Mike discovered that the stud type mounts are under lots of strain and there is only 2" or so more travel available until the trailing arms bind.
Probably better to do it properly and go the 4 link, much more travel and less chance of something busting under tension.
The Jabber will probly get this treatment next year along with the petrol tank raised and the handbrake cable relocated.
Aki hopes to sell his kit for around $800 Aus but that doesn't include the Rancho's.
For something simpler I was think of raising and converting the rear top shock mounts to the pin style to fit longer travel shocks in there.
Mike discovered that the stud type mounts are under lots of strain and there is only 2" or so more travel available until the trailing arms bind.
Probably better to do it properly and go the 4 link, much more travel and less chance of something busting under tension.
The Jabber will probly get this treatment next year along with the petrol tank raised and the handbrake cable relocated.
Aki hopes to sell his kit for around $800 Aus but that doesn't include the Rancho's.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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