what sags too quickly?
what rides poorly?
whats good value for money?
or is it more specific for each individual vehicle?
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OffTheShelf leaf spring suspension: looking at DOT/ADR regs
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
OffTheShelf leaf spring suspension: looking at DOT/ADR regs
im after peoples opinions on the above.
what sags too quickly?
what rides poorly?
whats good value for money?
or is it more specific for each individual vehicle?
what sags too quickly?
what rides poorly?
whats good value for money?
or is it more specific for each individual vehicle?
Last edited by jonamaphone1 on Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Yeah talk to dave he'll be able to G something up to suit what you want. Mate runs efs in his fisrt set sagged before 6 months done a warranty on it now it's been sweet for over a year think it a bit of hit and miss on if they hold there bend. don't know about the ones from states i'd say they'd be ok there always going bigger and better
plenty of parts on the bench
righto, from what ive been reading, it looks like "off the shelf" stuff is useless..
im at a bit of a cross roads as to what to do with my rig, cos on one hand i have to use my ute for work so it has to have a few onroad manners and not get defected. but on the otherhand i dont want it to feel like the diff is welded to the chassis.
has anyone tried to get a mod plate for their moved hangers before (qld)?
im at a bit of a cross roads as to what to do with my rig, cos on one hand i have to use my ute for work so it has to have a few onroad manners and not get defected. but on the otherhand i dont want it to feel like the diff is welded to the chassis.
has anyone tried to get a mod plate for their moved hangers before (qld)?
The TG 3" leafs flex pretty well for a out of the box leaf on the front we are maxing out the 12" shocks when setup with proper shackle angles.
The rears with shocks inverted are giving approx 20" flex per side and at the moment the tyres are hitting the tray (good for a bumpstop).
This was with brand new springs when they soften a bit should flex more.
if you want a firmer ride with less body roll then you need less shackle angle front and rear also helps carry a load better.
The more flex you get with any leaf the shorter the life span will be.
Hope this helps some
Dave
The rears with shocks inverted are giving approx 20" flex per side and at the moment the tyres are hitting the tray (good for a bumpstop).
This was with brand new springs when they soften a bit should flex more.
if you want a firmer ride with less body roll then you need less shackle angle front and rear also helps carry a load better.
The more flex you get with any leaf the shorter the life span will be.
Hope this helps some
Dave
What do you mostly use the vehicle for and what are you trying to achieve? It seems to me most people on here instantly assume you are looking for max flex etc when you may actually be conercened more with load carrying ability, ground clearance, better ride etc. Huge flex is the last thing most of the customers i deal with are concerned with...but each to their own.
mostly use the ute for driving to jobsites. i do a bit of weekend camping, and hit the tracks occaisonally.
i want to be able to run 33s.
i carry about 100kgs-150kgs of weight on the back, not including spare and steel tray.
im thinking of keeping everything stock except the hangers so i can run some longer leaves and get the same height in lift as i would with a shorter leaf. but not overly attention seeking, if ya know what i mean.
yea i not after massive flex, just a nice riding rig that can run some bigger tyres, perform slightly above average on the trails and still get me to work.
i want to be able to run 33s.
i carry about 100kgs-150kgs of weight on the back, not including spare and steel tray.
im thinking of keeping everything stock except the hangers so i can run some longer leaves and get the same height in lift as i would with a shorter leaf. but not overly attention seeking, if ya know what i mean.
yea i not after massive flex, just a nice riding rig that can run some bigger tyres, perform slightly above average on the trails and still get me to work.
to be honest, im over the moon with my OME Dakar springs- especially since they only cost me $120 each!
Coupled with OME Bushes ($94 all up), Rockcrawler greaseable shackles ($350ish) and OME Nitrochargers ($116) and i have a very nice riding truck that still flexes well on the road- gave me a very nice 2" lift too.
When i fit 33's, i'll be putting extended shackles on the truck to get another inch to clear them properly.
Coupled with OME Bushes ($94 all up), Rockcrawler greaseable shackles ($350ish) and OME Nitrochargers ($116) and i have a very nice riding truck that still flexes well on the road- gave me a very nice 2" lift too.
When i fit 33's, i'll be putting extended shackles on the truck to get another inch to clear them properly.
2005 HDJ100 Manual, ARB bar, XD9000 winch, ARB rooftop tent + awning, Drawers, Engel, 2" OME lift, 285/75R16 KM2's, iCom, HID XGT's.
If i were you i would run parabolics on the front 2" raised with a 4.5" shackle for the extra height if you stay with same length leaf.Rear run a medium OME pack dont know much about dakar just dont go heavy duty or no flex at all if you want a bit more flex in the ass use ifs springs and build a pack to suit using a 9" shackle to help with load, cheap and prob best flex for what you want bit of messing with rear leaf to get the best load and height but well worth the effort compared to stock.
Have a look through the local runs thread by micks troll in trips and tracks chriss front end works sweet for what it's cost just longer shocks and some custom bumpstops, Just run a good set of 32's and maybe lock the rear to make up for the lack of flex. Going to try a set up on chriss rear to see if it works better will post up pic's when it's done. keep in mind this is used as a work truck aswell so i't got to look as neat as possible.
As you can see the stock steering is to it's limit and i won't be surprised if a ball or 2 in the steering arm/s come lose as they all do even when total std.
When i had my steering plated i asked about spring mounts shock hoops and mounting and so on and he said he didn't want to touch it and was saying it can't be done but you can do most things just need the $ and talk to the right people.
As you can see the stock steering is to it's limit and i won't be surprised if a ball or 2 in the steering arm/s come lose as they all do even when total std.
When i had my steering plated i asked about spring mounts shock hoops and mounting and so on and he said he didn't want to touch it and was saying it can't be done but you can do most things just need the $ and talk to the right people.
plenty of parts on the bench
I thought you said decent.Z()LTAN wrote:make sure you get good shockies like a good set of rancho or tough dog or efen a decent set of efs ones
The springs are basically all the same, they all sag.
Good luck
I think you mean Bilstein or Koni
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
If he meant that he would have said, Bilstein and Konis are great shocks but i've seen plenty of them fail too including on our own vehicles.me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:I thought you said decent.Z()LTAN wrote:make sure you get good shockies like a good set of rancho or tough dog or efen a decent set of efs ones
The springs are basically all the same, they all sag.
Good luck
I think you mean Bilstein or Koni
Paul
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