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mid-mounted winch
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mid-mounted winch
Has someone pics of mid- mounted winches? mainly looking for higmount, but also bar, rope guides...thanks
I'm curious to know if a mid mounted winch has any issues with how it pulls the car (ie. if it wants to twist the car around or if it digs in at the front etc.) or if you can't notice the difference.
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I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
Can't see it making that much of a difference as you still have the fairlead at the front. Or in some cases just a smallish hole for the winch cable to come out of.Nelso wrote:I'm curious to know if a mid mounted winch has any issues with how it pulls the car (ie. if it wants to twist the car around or if it digs in at the front etc.) or if you can't notice the difference.
So in effect any angle you are winching at should be the same regardless of wether or not it's front mount or mid mount.
I'm happy to be corrected on this though.
Cheers Paul
Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
it also allows you to run the rope backwards to a pully ( that can then be used as a double line pull rear winch at no extra cost ) then through to the front.
without the winch up front you free up the room to run a ''real'' hyd pump off the crank shaft then hydrostatic drive the winch motor.
C'mon Power Ball.....
without the winch up front you free up the room to run a ''real'' hyd pump off the crank shaft then hydrostatic drive the winch motor.
C'mon Power Ball.....
innovation is better, better is faster, and fast is all that counts
You could run a lead sheave on a shaft to spool cable evenly on drum.GQ TROL wrote:Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
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Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
Umm, you're gonna have to dumb it down a bit further for me fella....lead sheave? Pics?GQ Bear wrote:You could run a lead sheave on a shaft to spool cable evenly on drum.GQ TROL wrote:Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
I am interested to hear what people would think about midmounting a PTO winch on a GQ. With running the cable around the back and down the Drivers Side. As I would like to run synthetic cable. And dont like it that close to the exhuast. If I was to go straight forwards.
I am sure I seen a GU ute at the 06 OBC with this setup. But is the std chassi strong enough. As I would imagine there would be a slight twisting force.
Also it would be planned so that its possible to do dbl line pulls backwards.
Another thing. How much lose would there be with all those bends?
I am sure I seen a GU ute at the 06 OBC with this setup. But is the std chassi strong enough. As I would imagine there would be a slight twisting force.
Also it would be planned so that its possible to do dbl line pulls backwards.
Another thing. How much lose would there be with all those bends?
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
To mid-mount a PTO on a GQ is no great shakes. A few comp trucks over here have been running it for a while. Gives you nice and clean approach angles on the front.
Taking the rope down driver's side is a drama though. Only way to do that is to flip the winch upside-down to place the winch gearbox to the left of centre of the chassis rails (PTO output is off the LH side of the gearbox). Flipping the winch has the potential of starving the worm gear and wheel of oil....which results in winch failure.
Better to take rope down passengers side, through a length of tube through the cab, as this allows you to keep the winch the right way up. Mounts between main driveshaft and LH chassis rail. Reverse the PTO output on the gearbox to point backwards.
Depending on how you mount it, you may need to use a hooped cross-member (to clear driveshaft) from one chassis rail to the other, with a good amount of bracing forward.
Wormy had a mid-mounted PTO at 06 OBC, but I doubt he would have needed to go through the cab with the rope.
Taking the rope down driver's side is a drama though. Only way to do that is to flip the winch upside-down to place the winch gearbox to the left of centre of the chassis rails (PTO output is off the LH side of the gearbox). Flipping the winch has the potential of starving the worm gear and wheel of oil....which results in winch failure.
Better to take rope down passengers side, through a length of tube through the cab, as this allows you to keep the winch the right way up. Mounts between main driveshaft and LH chassis rail. Reverse the PTO output on the gearbox to point backwards.
Depending on how you mount it, you may need to use a hooped cross-member (to clear driveshaft) from one chassis rail to the other, with a good amount of bracing forward.
Wormy had a mid-mounted PTO at 06 OBC, but I doubt he would have needed to go through the cab with the rope.
Have a look at the drum on a mobile crane, etc. Before the drum is a lead sheave which the rope passes. This sheave is on a shaft so it slides left when feeding onto the left side of the drum and then slides right to feed the next layer towards the right side and so on. Neatly wound drum every time.GQ TROL wrote:Umm, you're gonna have to dumb it down a bit further for me fella....lead sheave? Pics?GQ Bear wrote:You could run a lead sheave on a shaft to spool cable evenly on drum.GQ TROL wrote:Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
[color=violet]G[/color][color=white]O[/color][color=yellow] S[/color][color=blue]T[/color][color=yellow]O[/color][color=white]R[/color][color=violet]M[/color]
Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
I really must get my winch out of the box and have a look at it.GQ TROL wrote:To mid-mount a PTO on a GQ is no great shakes. A few comp trucks over here have been running it for a while. Gives you nice and clean approach angles on the front.
Taking the rope down driver's side is a drama though. Only way to do that is to flip the winch upside-down to place the winch gearbox to the left of centre of the chassis rails (PTO output is off the LH side of the gearbox). Flipping the winch has the potential of starving the worm gear and wheel of oil....which results in winch failure.
Better to take rope down passengers side, through a length of tube through the cab, as this allows you to keep the winch the right way up. Mounts between main driveshaft and LH chassis rail. Reverse the PTO output on the gearbox to point backwards.
Depending on how you mount it, you may need to use a hooped cross-member (to clear driveshaft) from one chassis rail to the other, with a good amount of bracing forward.
Wormy had a mid-mounted PTO at 06 OBC, but I doubt he would have needed to go through the cab with the rope.
Reason why I was thinking of running the cable around the back of the car and forwards along the drivers side. Is that I am building an Extra cab. And wasnt sure if I could get it all low enough for the Cable to clear the cab enough to wind on neatly. Where as the shaft I could probably mount a CV or something on it to get a bigger angle.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Yep that the one I was thinking off. That pto worked well. As it dragged both Rogers GU and Sandy thru all that mud. I remembered the Elec in the back as a spare. But the way it ran around the back I liked. Just not sure how the chassi/tray will take all the forces. The guy fabing my ute isnt real keen.GQ TROL wrote:Sorry Turps, I mis-read your original post. I didn't realise you were intending to run the rope around the back.
The GU you're thinking about is Roger McKay's. But it was just the elec backup that faces backwards, does a loop and exits out the front.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
There is no need to feed the rope onto the drum with a mid mount. My first guide is about 1000mm from the winch and it feeds on perfect for the entire 50m of rope. I had a new piece of Dynamica on yesterday and Only had one rope jam and that was due to it being brand new and not wrapped tight enough. Once the rope is used it basically never jams at all, unlike a front mounted winch.
The only disadvantage with a mid mount is if you have to work on it. So if you have a reliable winch then no problems.
The only disadvantage with a mid mount is if you have to work on it. So if you have a reliable winch then no problems.
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
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