Adjustable Feroza Cam Timing

[MightyMouse]

Being a "bit" frustrated with the Feroza's lack of bottom end torque and having tried all the easy fixes I have decided its time for some cam adjustment to move the torque curve down the range.

To do this cam adjustment is required and moving the timing belt one tooth forward or back is a rough and perhaps engine crunching solution.

So here the work so far.....

Stock Cam Pulley


Hub machined out


Vernier adjuster mechanism


Finished adjustable pulley - Front


Finished adjustable pulley - Rear


Will fit it this weekend and put it on the dyno to see how much effect it produces.
The middle ring of bolt holes progressively advances the cam timing depending on which hole is lined up and bolted as there is an incrementally increasing offset between each hole.

The inside slots allow for rotation and hold it all together when done, whilst the outside hold the hub to the pulley.

Will post the results - or perhaps lack of, after some testing.

[murcod]

Nice work! It will be intersting to see what the dyno shows.

[BORN2RUN]

please let us kno how it goes as im really intrested in anyway of increasing the power setup whislt waitin to slowly build up my motor.

sori wat i meant was increase the bottom end curve to boost n better low down torque for pulling n for off road use. rather than me stalling up the revs thus riding the clutch to get a good launch on n off the road. thaats wat i was tryin to refer too brethren.

[MightyMouse]

Advancing the cam doesnt make any more power in general terms, but what it does is shift the torque curve down.

In very general terms ( and its very motor specific ) for every 1 deg cam advance you move the torque curve down from 30 to 50 RPM.

THere are limits and you can damage engines if you over advance - so be VERY VERY careful.

and you can't buy the advancer its strictly DIY. However its not unusual for the upper timing sprockets bolt holes to be slotted ( yuck ) to achive advance. I don't like this as its rough and hard to set - but "if you can't do it the way it SHOULD be done then do it the way it CAN bed done"

[Clint]

Thats a very interesting project.
Its good to see someone doing something out of the norm with these lil trucks.

Look foward to seeing the results.

[MightyMouse]

OK its on and working, currently with 6 degrees advance. Couldn't get on the dyno this week ( dam work gets in the way of important things ) but will do in the near future.

Whilst I hate statements like "it feels good", I think its worked ( it sounds different ) but havn't done any real Km's to get a feel for it.

Things sprung a leak - and wouldn't you know it, its the hose that runs underneath the intake manifold, another "work by feel" job. The intake manifold side seems to be specifically designed to make life difficult, and all the extra height doesn't help the reachability either. Now have permanent bruised ribs from working on it.

[short stuff]

today my damn thing blew the hose under the distributor so if that one has gone do this one as well

[MightyMouse]

The under the manifold one was the only one I hadn't replaced ( of course ).

Used silicone heater hose so should not happen again. Not too expensive either 200mm and two good quality hose clamps cost $5.20 - so when you look at the pain of changing it, its really a sensible solution.

Just don't overtighten the hose clamps - silicone hose is much softer than rubber.

[MightyMouse]

Have gone to +10 degrees without any mechanical horrors - still no dyno results but one day..... ( damm work and weekend trips ).

[stariondriver]

good part to have if you turbo'ed a rocky 1.6 motor

[MightyMouse]

Ok - did about 1500 k over the last few days and its helped, particularly on the highway.

Hangs in overdrive much better now, and as the auto's OD is taller than the Feroza manual that's a real plus.

Its not earthshattering and I need to experiment a bit more to really prove it, but I can say that's its an improvement