Found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... mot_widget
Price looks good.......
Anyone got one? Would it be OK for cutting sheet metal and steel plate up to about 8mm?
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Cheap ebay plasma cutter
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I cant see where it states what thickness of mild steel it would cut. I do know a mate was talking about getting one for his farm workshop that was new and he said $1000 was cheap.
I would be asking the vendor how thick mild steel it can handle. Don't rush it, as they seem to have plenty in stock. The model contains a "40" and that could indicate 4mm?? It looks pretty small. What you other guys think?
I would be asking the vendor how thick mild steel it can handle. Don't rush it, as they seem to have plenty in stock. The model contains a "40" and that could indicate 4mm?? It looks pretty small. What you other guys think?
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
i have one off ebay
works awsome
i have cut upto 10mm took it slow but works pretty well
6mm is perfect once u get the air pressure dialed in cuts as good as the ones goin for a few thousand
without a doubt its the best tool in my shed
works awsome
i have cut upto 10mm took it slow but works pretty well
6mm is perfect once u get the air pressure dialed in cuts as good as the ones goin for a few thousand
without a doubt its the best tool in my shed
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Re: Cheap ebay plasma cutter
yep i got that exact one and it works great..i have cut up to 8mm with it easy enough and it cuts 5mm and 6mm easy as all day longMark2 wrote:Found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... mot_widget
Price looks good.......
Anyone got one? Would it be OK for cutting sheet metal and steel plate up to about 8mm?
dave
www.bolsys.com.au
the original and the best
the original and the best
You'll just need a fair whack of air for it to run.
A 2.5HP can get them going for a little bit but a bigger air compessor would be better also run for a longer time.
12mm Plate will take ages to cut through, an oxy would be much quicker, but if your only doing 5mm and less it'll cut through it like butter.
Check out for what the prices will be on the inner and outer nozzle pieces are.
When it cuts out and won't work or cut you'll need to change the inner nozzle might get away with using the old outer nozzle otherwise you'll need to change it as well.
If it doesn't start arcing straight away when you turn it on there might not be enough air.
There's an auto cut off when you un-screw the nozzle cap so you will have to turn it off and back on.
Plasma cutters seem to be all the same deal, they don't change much when your only dealing with the little ones.
Try to be nice with the gun other wise it can crack and give you little zaps etc.
Oh and always have the earth connected you'll be able to still cut without the earth but it'll be real slow and it won't cut through anything thicker than 2-3mm.
You'll also want clean no water in the air otherwise it'll come out the gun.
Also when your finshed cutting air will still come out this is normal, to cool down the gun you should be able to stop this though by pressing the trigger once, wheather that's a good thing I don't know
When changing the nozzles there's ceramic air defuseser what ever you do don't let this crack or break they cost a fair bit you should get a spare with the machine if not just let the air stop then change the gun other wise the air can throw it out the gun.
Just some tips, I've used a couple of these for years, everyday. They are generally faultless, there's not much you could stuff up really.
They are handy nice clean cuts, just won't cut everything.
A 2.5HP can get them going for a little bit but a bigger air compessor would be better also run for a longer time.
12mm Plate will take ages to cut through, an oxy would be much quicker, but if your only doing 5mm and less it'll cut through it like butter.
Check out for what the prices will be on the inner and outer nozzle pieces are.
When it cuts out and won't work or cut you'll need to change the inner nozzle might get away with using the old outer nozzle otherwise you'll need to change it as well.
If it doesn't start arcing straight away when you turn it on there might not be enough air.
There's an auto cut off when you un-screw the nozzle cap so you will have to turn it off and back on.
Plasma cutters seem to be all the same deal, they don't change much when your only dealing with the little ones.
Try to be nice with the gun other wise it can crack and give you little zaps etc.
Oh and always have the earth connected you'll be able to still cut without the earth but it'll be real slow and it won't cut through anything thicker than 2-3mm.
You'll also want clean no water in the air otherwise it'll come out the gun.
Also when your finshed cutting air will still come out this is normal, to cool down the gun you should be able to stop this though by pressing the trigger once, wheather that's a good thing I don't know
When changing the nozzles there's ceramic air defuseser what ever you do don't let this crack or break they cost a fair bit you should get a spare with the machine if not just let the air stop then change the gun other wise the air can throw it out the gun.
Just some tips, I've used a couple of these for years, everyday. They are generally faultless, there's not much you could stuff up really.
They are handy nice clean cuts, just won't cut everything.
Thanks for the replies - sounds like it would be a good buy for less than $600. Some of the cheap stuff coming out of china now is really good.
This is probably a dumb question but if it cuts 5-6mm plate 'like butter' would it perform neat, quick cuts on much thinner sheet metal like body panels etc?
(the answer is probably obvious but I know stuff all about plasma cutting)
Does a plasma cutting torch work in a vertical or overhead position? Does paint have to be ground back first before plasma cutting?
This is probably a dumb question but if it cuts 5-6mm plate 'like butter' would it perform neat, quick cuts on much thinner sheet metal like body panels etc?
(the answer is probably obvious but I know stuff all about plasma cutting)
Does a plasma cutting torch work in a vertical or overhead position? Does paint have to be ground back first before plasma cutting?
It's called a plasma cutter because it get to around 10,000+ deg in temp, it's the same temp as lighting and lighting is also called plasma.
On thiner stuff it still the same deal, the cut is about 3 mm wide, the more air you can pump through the cleaner the cut will be as the air is simply blowing the molten metal out of the way.
Using a plasma cyutter on thin stuff is a lot better than oxy is it causes very little distortion.
as the outer nozzle gets older the hole will open up a bit more and this can cause the plasma to flare/fan out so the max width would be around 5mm.
the more flared out the plasma gets a little slower the cutting will be but nozzles do last for a decent amount of time even when using it lots, using it everyday should give around a month's worth of cutting, which is a pretty long time.
What ever you do don't start it with your hand in front of the nozzle even with a welding glove on as it will cut straight through the welding glove.
On thiner stuff it still the same deal, the cut is about 3 mm wide, the more air you can pump through the cleaner the cut will be as the air is simply blowing the molten metal out of the way.
Using a plasma cyutter on thin stuff is a lot better than oxy is it causes very little distortion.
as the outer nozzle gets older the hole will open up a bit more and this can cause the plasma to flare/fan out so the max width would be around 5mm.
the more flared out the plasma gets a little slower the cutting will be but nozzles do last for a decent amount of time even when using it lots, using it everyday should give around a month's worth of cutting, which is a pretty long time.
What ever you do don't start it with your hand in front of the nozzle even with a welding glove on as it will cut straight through the welding glove.
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