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60 Series Front Diff Removal
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
60 Series Front Diff Removal
G'day all,
I am installing an ARB Air Locker into the front of my 60 series this Sunday. The locker is already in the diff centre, so just needs to be slotted in. I understand it is just a matter of getting the whole swivel/CV off and removing the front axels carefully so as not to root the seals. Only problem is, I have not done this before. Was wondering if some one had the exploded diagram for diff removal/installation in a 60 series?
Cheers
SANGA
P.S. before you all go saying press search, I have done this and not come up with anything overly usefull, also have read the bible; I am after something like the rebuild 60 series hub thread if anyone else has read it (only for diffs obviously )
I am installing an ARB Air Locker into the front of my 60 series this Sunday. The locker is already in the diff centre, so just needs to be slotted in. I understand it is just a matter of getting the whole swivel/CV off and removing the front axels carefully so as not to root the seals. Only problem is, I have not done this before. Was wondering if some one had the exploded diagram for diff removal/installation in a 60 series?
Cheers
SANGA
P.S. before you all go saying press search, I have done this and not come up with anything overly usefull, also have read the bible; I am after something like the rebuild 60 series hub thread if anyone else has read it (only for diffs obviously )
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
Road Ranger
jack up and remove the wheels
remove the outer plate on the free wheeling hubs
take circlip off and slide the spring and locking mechanism out
remove the body of the free wheeling hub
undo the outer bearing ut
take the lock washer plate out, these can be flattened and resued, but they are a couple of dollars ech and can be bought from any good bearing or 4b shop
remove the inner wheel bearing nut
remove the caliper by the 2 17mm head bolts on the rear of the knuckle, you may nned to remove the brake line if it is still locked on the backing plate
slide the rotor and outer hub assy over the stub axle, carefull not to brop the bearings ect into the dirt
undo the bolts that hold the stub axle and take the backing plate and stub axle off, leave 2 bolts in as it locates the assy for re assebling
the CV is now expose, you need to pull it out, you may have to spin it to get the flat in the right spot, when you slide the CV out is allows the centre to be removed (both sides need to be done obviously)
The centre needs the bolts undone and the drive shaft removed then it slides out, there is two cut outs in the pumpkin which allows the crown wheel to fit out, its heavy so you may need two people, under the car or one out to pass it to
while all this is out you could run a swivel hub kit through it, its pretty self explanitory when you pull it apart, but it comes with new kin pin bearing and knuckle wiper seal as wel, you need to undo the holts retaining the king pin and slide the swivel hub iff to replace the wiper seal and replace the bearing while your in the process
hope that helps
remove the outer plate on the free wheeling hubs
take circlip off and slide the spring and locking mechanism out
remove the body of the free wheeling hub
undo the outer bearing ut
take the lock washer plate out, these can be flattened and resued, but they are a couple of dollars ech and can be bought from any good bearing or 4b shop
remove the inner wheel bearing nut
remove the caliper by the 2 17mm head bolts on the rear of the knuckle, you may nned to remove the brake line if it is still locked on the backing plate
slide the rotor and outer hub assy over the stub axle, carefull not to brop the bearings ect into the dirt
undo the bolts that hold the stub axle and take the backing plate and stub axle off, leave 2 bolts in as it locates the assy for re assebling
the CV is now expose, you need to pull it out, you may have to spin it to get the flat in the right spot, when you slide the CV out is allows the centre to be removed (both sides need to be done obviously)
The centre needs the bolts undone and the drive shaft removed then it slides out, there is two cut outs in the pumpkin which allows the crown wheel to fit out, its heavy so you may need two people, under the car or one out to pass it to
while all this is out you could run a swivel hub kit through it, its pretty self explanitory when you pull it apart, but it comes with new kin pin bearing and knuckle wiper seal as wel, you need to undo the holts retaining the king pin and slide the swivel hub iff to replace the wiper seal and replace the bearing while your in the process
hope that helps
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Road Ranger
you can remove the king pics and slide the swivel hub off, but I reckon you should do all the seals etc while you are in thereGuy From Nowhere wrote:I was told it was not neccesary to take the hub apart, though your method says you do. Can someone clarify which is the case?
Cheers
SANGA
P.S. does anyone feel like lending a hand in the Newy/Morrisett region
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Resident Terrorist
The hub definately needs to come off to get the cv and axle out, its the swivel housing that doesnt need to be removed unless you plan on re-kitting it (and I agree with Tiny, its the perfect time to do it if it's due).Guy From Nowhere wrote:I was told it was not neccesary to take the hub apart, though your method says you do. Can someone clarify which is the case?
Cheers
SANGA
P.S. does anyone feel like lending a hand in the Newy/Morrisett region
yes and no, you need to get the inner axle out, to do this you need to get the hub out of the way, either by removing the hub, or remove the swivel housing with hub attached.RAY185 wrote:The hub definately needs to come off to get the cv and axle out, its the swivel housing that doesnt need to be removed unless you plan on re-kitting it (and I agree with Tiny, its the perfect time to do it if it's due).Guy From Nowhere wrote:I was told it was not neccesary to take the hub apart, though your method says you do. Can someone clarify which is the case?
Cheers
SANGA
P.S. does anyone feel like lending a hand in the Newy/Morrisett region
The guys on here that do trail maintenance pretty much all say removing the swivel housing is the gun, heaps quicker and easier.
I do these about once a week and alway the same (quickest) way.
1. Take the F/W hub cap off to remove the circlip on the CV.
2. Take off the 8, 10mm bolts that hold the seal on the back of the swival hub.
3. Undo flexible brake line
4. Take the steering arm off the top of the hub. You can leave the tie-rod on and the bottom pin in place.
5. By slightly pushing the top bearing down, the complete hub with brakes intact will rotate down off the housing and CV.
Done in less than 10 minutes per side. You can still change the rear seals if needed.
1. Take the F/W hub cap off to remove the circlip on the CV.
2. Take off the 8, 10mm bolts that hold the seal on the back of the swival hub.
3. Undo flexible brake line
4. Take the steering arm off the top of the hub. You can leave the tie-rod on and the bottom pin in place.
5. By slightly pushing the top bearing down, the complete hub with brakes intact will rotate down off the housing and CV.
Done in less than 10 minutes per side. You can still change the rear seals if needed.
Resident Terrorist
Ok yeah I can definately see what you two are saying and I've never thought of doing it this way, I guess because I've never had to (havent broken a cv offroad yet touch wood). I've always done it the longer way because I've planned on putting a wheel bearing/swivel housing kit through it. I can definatey see the "quick way" being an advantage if I need to swap out a broken one on a wheeling trip.
Re: 60 Series Front Diff Removal
A picture is worth a thousand words and I am guessing you would like one.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Was wondering if some one had the exploded diagram for diff removal/installation in a 60 series?
If you click on the link below you will be able to download a PDF of the Toyota Front Axle and everything you need to know about pulling it apart. It is 5mb in size and well worth the bandwidth
http://www.corpics.com/40series/FrontDiffToyota.pdf
mm
ur welcome if you need others let me know.
Thanks to all the responses so far. Haven't tried any yet as am a bit sick. But, will endevour to do it this weekend. special thanks to Turbo4t for his quick method, and also to Turbo42 for the step by step diagrams.
Cheers all
SANGA
Cheers all
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
Curious, unless your running MQ/MK diff C200 the Nissan G60 Front Diff C216 cannot take a locker.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Thanks to all the responses so far. Haven't tried any yet as am a bit sick. But, will endevour to do it this weekend. special thanks to Turbo4t for his quick method, and also to Turbo42 for the step by step diagrams.
Cheers all
SANGA
What were you planning ?
Steve
2010 TB48 GU Patrol
1973 G60 MWB Soft Top Showcar
1972 G60 MWB Soft Top Project 4WD
1978 G60 Ute "HellPatrol"
www.oz4wdclassicparts.com.au
1973 G60 MWB Soft Top Showcar
1972 G60 MWB Soft Top Project 4WD
1978 G60 Ute "HellPatrol"
www.oz4wdclassicparts.com.au
Mate, your in the toyota thread. 60 series cruiser.Swerve wrote:Curious, unless your running MQ/MK diff C200 the Nissan G60 Front Diff C216 cannot take a locker.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Thanks to all the responses so far. Haven't tried any yet as am a bit sick. But, will endevour to do it this weekend. special thanks to Turbo4t for his quick method, and also to Turbo42 for the step by step diagrams.
Cheers all
SANGA
What were you planning ?
Steve
What he said:Pmidi73 wrote:Mate, your in the toyota thread. 60 series cruiser.Swerve wrote:Curious, unless your running MQ/MK diff C200 the Nissan G60 Front Diff C216 cannot take a locker.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Thanks to all the responses so far. Haven't tried any yet as am a bit sick. But, will endevour to do it this weekend. special thanks to Turbo4t for his quick method, and also to Turbo42 for the step by step diagrams.
Cheers all
SANGA
What were you planning ?
Steve
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
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