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Caster correction bushes

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Caster correction bushes

Post by ROVERNIT »

In my thrust for knowledge I came across these things Caster correction bushes : CALR : Off Road Equipment from Devon 4x4 caster correction bushs I contacted the company and yes they do them for D2 I was wondering would they be any good and are they hard to install seeing that there old man emu can we get them here? I also thought that you couldnt get such products for Discovery 2 do you need an oxy to heat them out ive got press but no oxy
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Post by HSV Rangie »

IMO, they limit suspension travel due to the offset bush.

they do work well for mainly on road vehicle.

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Post by ROVERNIT »

HSV Rangie wrote:IMO, they limit suspension travel due to the offset bush.

they do work well for mainly on road vehicle.

Michael.
in what way do you think?

the way she drives now with the front at 5 inches is all that bad I havent taken it to high speeds well nothing over 90km/h Its a lot better then my GU was when I took that to 4 inch

The steering wheel sits to the left a bit but never the less I want the steering to be a little better

http://www.devon4x4.com/shop.php?mode=p ... roduct=114
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Post by cloughy »

ROVERNIT wrote:
HSV Rangie wrote:IMO, they limit suspension travel due to the offset bush.

they do work well for mainly on road vehicle.

Michael.
in what way do you think?

the way she drives now with the front at 5 inches is all that bad I havent taken it to high speeds well nothing over 90km/h Its a lot better then my GU was when I took that to 4 inch

The steering wheel sits to the left a bit but never the less I want the steering to be a little better

http://www.devon4x4.com/shop.php?mode=p ... roduct=114
The steering wheel sits to the left becuase you need to centre your drag link, as posted in other threads of yours :roll:

Castor bushes limit flex as they have very little bush on one side and alot on the other, causing the bush to bind quicker

Go get a wheel alignment(as you've also been told) and get the castor angle.......and you'll know the correction needed
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Post by schuler »

Rotate them swivels..... go on, you know you want to ;)

Steve
86 Rangie, F+R 4:11 Maxi, 35 Pedes, 6 point cage, Comp High Mount
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Post by ROVERNIT »

cloughy wrote:
ROVERNIT wrote:
HSV Rangie wrote:IMO, they limit suspension travel due to the offset bush.

they do work well for mainly on road vehicle.

Michael.
in what way do you think?

the way she drives now with the front at 5 inches is all that bad I havent taken it to high speeds well nothing over 90km/h Its a lot better then my GU was when I took that to 4 inch

The steering wheel sits to the left a bit but never the less I want the steering to be a little better

http://www.devon4x4.com/shop.php?mode=p ... roduct=114
The steering wheel sits to the left becuase you need to centre your drag link, as posted in other threads of yours :roll:

Castor bushes limit flex as they have very little bush on one side and alot on the other, causing the bush to bind quicker

Go get a wheel alignment(as you've also been told) and get the castor angle.......and you'll know the correction needed
I'll do the drag link this week end I just wanted to know why caster bush limit flex

ive got a bit to do before getting wheel allignment but i'll get to that to :lol: but thanks for the ifno on caster bushes I know that to now
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Post by ROVERNIT »

schuler wrote:Rotate them swivels..... go on, you know you want to ;)

Steve

whats that ? hold on if you tell me it I might want to do that to :lol:
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Post by RangingRover »

Rotate them swivels..... go on, you know you want to
No swivels on a disco 2. If you were creative enough you could probably rotate the hub with some fabrication work?
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Post by 6.5 rangie »

Would rotating the brackets on the diff work ok, as in cut em off and re weld them, ie rotating the whole assembly and correcting the castor :?:
Damien


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Post by ROVERNIT »

:lol: :lol: :lol: its because of you lot that I get creative :lol: :lol: :lol:


there's a few things that I need to sort like the drag link I've got shims from Rovertym to correct the rear springs from bowing Im putting a set of D1 rear spring seats in to raise the rear 15mm drop the front down a little or wait till I place a winch and battery in Xmas which will drop the front by 15mm and Im looking in to some radius arms from QT

but Im babbling on again to excited and get carried away :lol: :lol: :lol: but I just wanted to know about caster correction bush but they seen not to be the go any way thanks guys
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Post by RangingRover »

Would rotating the brackets on the diff work ok, as in cut em off and re weld them, ie rotating the whole assembly and correcting the castor
I imagine you are talking the radius arm brackets here? I think this may work, it would also probably return the spring seats to the right angle. Might also need to relocate the panhard rod bracket too? You could also cut the actual end off the diff that the hub bolts to (ie. the knuckle) and rotate that piece (isn't that what they do with cruisers?)
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Post by uninformed »

nissan syndrome?????
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Post by ROVERNIT »

Nah thats going to far even for me Im waiting for a company called QT to develop there radius arms for the Disco 2 there developing a 6 degree arm for lift 4-5 inchs that would probibly cost me $600 shipped
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Post by red90 »

HSV Rangie wrote:IMO, they limit suspension travel due to the offset bush.

they do work well for mainly on road vehicle.

Michael.
Offsetting the bushing in no way affects the overall movement. Assuming the same compounding is used, articulation whould not change.
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Post by shakes »

red90 wrote:
HSV Rangie wrote:IMO, they limit suspension travel due to the offset bush.

they do work well for mainly on road vehicle.

Michael.
Offsetting the bushing in no way affects the overall movement. Assuming the same compounding is used, articulation whould not change.
so the because the centre of the bush is offset and can only travel say 1/4 of the distance of a standard bush before it is limited, this wont efffect the travel how?

it has a minimal effect over all but it is definately not the same total wheel travel gained using a std rubber bush, most castor bushe's are also a poly compound of some sort as well limiting travel even more.
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Post by ROVERNIT »

Thanks Rick not sure if your following this thread but a public thank you is in order for the lend of your ramp it was good to meet Liam and chew the crap about 4wding and I'll come in and visit you next saturday we figured that the front ACE arm is binding up I still have about 3 inchs of travel in the shocks to play with that I want to utalise so there a few mods I want to do there, Liam was talking about cutting the seam of the panhard braket and welding the inside to re strengthen it so allowing the front
Ace bar to move down more freely (not sure if this is possible) but I want to chat to you about that any way and let you have a once over

yet to study the rear properly

here a few pics

Image


Image

Image

Image

[/list]
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Post by ROVERNIT »

shakes wrote:
red90 wrote:
HSV Rangie wrote:IMO, they limit suspension travel due to the offset bush.

they do work well for mainly on road vehicle.

Michael.
Offsetting the bushing in no way affects the overall movement. Assuming the same compounding is used, articulation whould not change.
so the because the centre of the bush is offset and can only travel say 1/4 of the distance of a standard bush before it is limited, this wont efffect the travel how?

it has a minimal effect over all but it is definately not the same total wheel travel gained using a std rubber bush, most castor bushe's are also a poly compound of some sort as well limiting travel even more.
I dont know the in and out like you blokes but these are rubber ones

but I think for the price id rather radius arms

[img][img]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff14 ... usArms.jpg[/img][/img]
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Post by ROVERNIT »

Hi guys just after some advice AGAIN :lol:

on my ramp test we figured out that the ACE arm is hitting as per the picture I was wondering do you think there would be any dramas if I shaved of 3mm deep and about 20mm down to make some clearence for the ACE arm here are some pics

Image

Image[/img]
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Post by ... rick »

ROVERNIT wrote:Thanks Rick not sure if your following this thread but a public thank you is in order for the lend of your ramp it was good to meet Liam and chew the crap about 4wding and I'll come in and visit you next saturday we figured that the front ACE arm is binding up I still have about 3 inchs of travel in the shocks to play with that I want to utalise so there a few mods I want to do there, Liam was talking about cutting the seam of the panhard braket and welding the inside to re strengthen it so allowing the front
Ace bar to move down more freely (not sure if this is possible) but I want to chat to you about that any way and let you have a once over

yet to study the rear properly


[/list]
Always happy to help, look forward to seeing this one sorted and done!
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Post by red90 »

shakes wrote:so the because the centre of the bush is offset and can only travel say 1/4 of the distance of a standard bush before it is limited, this wont efffect the travel how?

it has a minimal effect over all but it is definately not the same total wheel travel gained using a std rubber bush, most castor bushe's are also a poly compound of some sort as well limiting travel even more.
One bush can move 1/2 of the stock movement. The other can move 1.5. The combined movement equals the same as far as articulation goes. In articulation the opposing bushes move in opposing directions.
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Post by 6.5 rangie »

What rate are your coils,, looks like its having difficulties articulating, your super lift will be useless if it doesn't flex.
Damien


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Post by ROVERNIT »

6.5 rangie wrote:What rate are your coils,, looks like its having difficulties articulating, your super lift will be useless if it doesn't flex.
I Agree with you all the way it more then useless if it doesn't flex and defeats the purpose the whole lift

the rate of the front are 220 rear are 280 which are softer then Slunnies at the moment the front springs are being limited by the ACE arm

option 1 is to trim a little bit of the panard rod bracket so that the arm can come down a little more this will help the wheel tuck up the guard a little better

option 2 make up longer ACE bar links which over kill engineering can do the problem here I know where the arm hits at low point but uncertain where its limited is on the high point I'm afraid this may work against me not with me

As predicted by Slunnie where the ACE arm hits I still have about 2-3 travel left in the shock the trick is to use some of this travel one Ive sorted the front then I'll have a look at the rear
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Post by ROVERNIT »

Once the suspension is sorted then its time for these http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.asp?ProductID=2044 and some serious rubber
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